Acropolis (Athens)

...could wander up to the Acropolis freely and quietly.

The Acropolis is basically a limestone and red schist rock. During the Golden Age of Athens, the statesman Pericles commissioned a magnificent public building programme on its summit to commemorate its cultural and political achievements. This is what we had come to see.

There is only one accessible slope leading to the summit, the other sides too steep to climb. We ...
...most sacred site on the Acropolis where Poseidon and Athena had a contest over who would be the Patron of the city. Poseidon thrust his trident into the rock and a spring burst forth. Athena touched the ground with a spear and an olive tree grew. Athena was declared the victor and the great city of Athens was named in her honour. The most impressive feature of the temple is the porch of the Caryatids (six columns shaped like maidens supporting the ... more

No visit to Athens would be complete without a trip to the Acropolis. Often referred to as the Sacred Rock, three impressive temples stand upon the site. Tourists flock to the site; all eager to experience the magnificence spectacle that crowns the city. Unfortunately, this is the first impression that struck us as we arrived; a hustling, bustling, noisy crowd. Our enthusiasm was somewhat dampened. Tour guides unceremoniously greet you, eager to take your money (approximately 40 euros) in return for an historic oration on each of the monuments. We succumbed to a white suited English tour guide and were led with others towards the ramp leading upwards, my husband, complaining bitterly that when he visited last in the late 60s, you could wander up to the Acropolis freely and quietly.

The Acropolis is basically a limestone and red schist rock. During the Golden Age of Athens, the statesman Pericles commissioned a magnificent public building programme on its summit to commemorate its cultural and political achievements. This is what we had come to see.

There is only one accessible slope leading to the summit, the other sides too steep to climb. We trailed up the ramp and climb the steps. The first monument reached is the Propylaea (elaborate gateway). Designed by the architect Mnesikles, it was constructed in 437-432 B.C just before the outbreak of the Peloponnesian wars. The Pentelic marble gateway is impressive, decorated with black stonework with examples of both Doric and ionic columns.

To the right is the small temple of Athena Nike constructed around 420 B.C. by the architect Kallikrates. From this point magnificent views of the port of Piraeus and the island of salamis.

Then we reach the Parthenon, a Doric temple dedicated to Athena Parthenos, was built between 447 and 438 B.C. almost entirely of Pentelic marble. This were the real disappointment hit us. Scaffolding surrounded the great temple, detracting largely from its classic beauty. The interior of the temple (now restricted) originally housed a 40-foot gold and ivory statue of the goddess as well as the treasury of Athens. Through the ages, the Parthenon has undergone a number of changes, transformed into a Byzantine church, a Latin church, a Muslim mosque and a storage facility for Turkish gunpowder. For a more in depth review of the Parthenon please read my review entitled The Maidens Apartment.

The Erechtheion, an Ionic temple dedicated to Athena Polias, was built around 420 B.C. It is supposed to stand on the most sacred site on the Acropolis where Poseidon and Athena had a contest over who would be the Patron of the city. Poseidon thrust his trident into the rock and a spring burst forth. Athena touched the ground with a spear and an olive tree grew. Athena was declared the victor and the great city of Athens was named in her honour. The most impressive feature of the temple is the porch of the Caryatids (six columns shaped like maidens supporting the roof). The ones on the actual building are sadly just copies. Four of the originals, however, can be seen inside the Acropolis museum.

The Acropolis museum was founded in 1878 and is sunk slightly below the summit. Admission is included in the price. A walk around the museum is well worth the effort. It not only houses four of the original Caryatids but what remains from the Parthenon’s pediments. The museum was cool and quiet in contrast to the heat and noise outside. A welcome relief.
Walking back around the Parthenon, look downwards. Below are two theatres. The first, the roman theatre of Herod Atticus in 161 AD, is still used for classical concerts. Further around is the Theatre of Dionysious, the first stone theatre where the plays or Euripides, Sophocles and Aristophanes were first performed. It was later enlarged by the Romans and used for gladiator fights.

Although, I felt disappointed in the site, I would still recommend a visit. The monuments are magnificent and the glory of that once was is clear. I would rather have had the disappointment and seen the site first hand than to imagine from afar.

However, certain mistakes we made could be avoided. Firstly, I would suggest that you visit early in the morning or late in the evening. The acropolis is open to visitors from 8 a.m. until 7.30 in the evening. The crowds are not as bad at these times and the heat not so intense.

We took a guided tour. I don’t really think this was necessary. The admission fee without a guide is 12 euro compared to 40 euros with. Most of the information provided by the guide is available in guidebooks and brochures. It also enables you to linger when and where you want. Although we lost the guide (purposefully), once on the summit, feeling more at ease on our own. I feel I lost the opportunity to savour the Temple of Athena Nike and the views from that point to their fullest.

Although first instinct, once on the summit is to head towards the Parthenon, avoid doing this and walk to the Erechtheion and around to the Eastern and Southern sides of the Parthenon. From these angles, the scaffolding is not as evident and a more naturalistic view is possible.

Refreshments are available from the car park below. No food or drink are allowed on the Acropolis so make sure you have a drink before climbing, especially if it is a warm day. Toilets are available at the car park and in the museum on the summit.
 

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