Adega Vila Lisa is a very unusual restaurant, situated in a village close to Lagos and Portimao in the Algarve very near to where I lived and still have land. What makes this restaurant different from others in the Algarve is that there is no menu and you can't drink beer; only water or wine. You are probably thinking then why do I like it so much and visit often when beer is my favourite drink. A good question - and my answer is that an evening spent with Jose Vila and his partner, Lisa, is a unique experience.

Firstly you wouldn't know the restaurant existed if you didn't know anything about the owner, the village of Mexilhoera Grande and the fact that this is one of the best and most famous restaurants in Portugal. There are no signs outside the restaurant and from the street, Rua Francisco Bivar - no 52 to be precise, it looks like all other typical Portuguese houses; shining white exteriors with windows of yellow and a big strong door painted a shade of Prussian Blue.

Secondly, the owner is Jose Vila, a modern artist who is highly respected in the contemporary art world. His paintings are big, bold and colourful. I can see influences of Mark Chagall, Pablo Picasso and my old favourite, Henri Matisse. He is famous throughout the Algarve and the famous visit him. You never know who you may be sat next to on the patio or on the tables upstairs or in the main dining area. Artists, politicians, actors and TV presenters travel from Lisbon and other parts of the country to see this man and his art and most of all to eat his food.

A jovial chap who loves to paint, socialise, cook and eat. Senor Vila has resided in this unassuming village house for over 20 years. You can often see him buying local produce in the market in Lagos. I do believe his partner and other members of the family toil away in the small but well equipped kitchen to bring forth creations of a cuisine that has been long forgotten in the land of the navigators; a series of traditional Portuguese dishes, cooked with love, flair and using only top local ingredients, accompanied by the house wine; red or white.

The interior of the restaurant is very basic with long tables and benches. Not the place for a romantic evening as the atmosphere can sometimes be very noisy and bawdy. You will certainly commune with your fellow diners, from village people, tourists to the famous - as well as with Senor Vila himself. Don't be alarmed if suddenly he approaches you armed with his latest painting. He isn't asking you to buy it - he just wants to explain the meaning behind the composition and how you should interpret the heavy brush strokes of blue, yellow and read. He is indeed an extrovert.

There are three eating areas; the main room downstairs which is always bursting at the seams and can be quite dark as there is only one small window, a second floor which seats the overflow from the floor below and a patio at the back of the building - obviously only suitable for summer dining. The whole building has a rustic feel with an extreme vibrancy from Vila's art work, his personality and the loud chatter from his guests.

From the small kitchen on the bottom floor young waitresses bring out dish after dish followed by copious amounts of red or white local wine served in glass jugs. Occasionally the boss will join in with the procession of serving girls especially when its time to serve his pride and joy; his signature dish - pernil de porco. This is a leg of pork that has been slowly roasted in a wood burning oven like many an old Portuguese still use down in the valleys of Monchique. The pork meat is so tender it falls of the bone yet the crackling on top is crunchy and crisp.

Hams and octopus are also cooked in the oven with white wine and coriander. Marcelo sausage; black, pungent and delicious is a favourite and is served cold and sliced or cooked. Chick pea soup blended with the tail of an ox to give it a strong flavour and served with a sprinkling of mint is one of my favourite dishes especially in winter. Bread - glorious bread; white, doughy in the centre and crusty on top, served in baskets and sliced in huge chunks. There are no formalities in this restaurant - just slap on the tangy, creamy cheeses from the Alentejo or dip the bread into one of the many soups. Delicious - oh so delicious.

Mexilhoera Grande used to be covered in water from the estuary of Portimao in days gone by and has a history of fishing and seafood. There is no wonder that fish dominates the menu here in this restaurant. Fried espada or scabbard fish. An ugly fish when swimming around in the sea but on the plate is delicious when fried - white, long with a silver thread running through its back. More wine to follow - rough and ready but goes down a treat with this earthy cuisine. I usually drink more white than red as it isn't quite so tart.

What have we got left - potatoes cooked and tossed in virgin olive oil with coriander, scrambled eggs covered in a home-made tomato sauce, olives, and I must not forget the fish dish borrowed from the Alentejo - dogfish soup. Great thick chunks of flaky white fish sitting in a sauce made from tomatoes, vinegar and my favourite herb, coriander. This is delicious eaten with fresh crusty bread. Other dishes include; cuttlefish served with sweet potatoes, clams with rice, gilt edged bream and sea bass and a dish that makes a lot of people pull a strange face - chicken giblets cooked in red wine. Not for vegetarians. In fact I think vegetarians would struggle here as there isn't a lot on offer except for bread, cheese and potatoes.

Desserts are always made from almonds, figs and honey. Very rich, sweet and moist. At the end of the meal the sweets are laid out on the tables and a pot of home made coffee will follow with a bottle of the Algarve's favourite spirit, Medronho. This is an acquired taste and one I have been brought up with. To this day I am never sure whether I like it or not - I just drink it down in one and hope for the best. They do say it is good for sore throats and stomach complaints. I'm not surprised - with that potency it should cure all ills.

I don't think this restaurant is for everyone. I think if you are looking for a quiet evening out - then this is not the place to visit. You have to be of a friendly and outgoing disposition to enjoy a meal here, I think. I like the atmosphere - it is electric. I like the building and the artwork and I like the man who puts all this show together. For 35 euros per head there is a lot of food on offer and it is exquisitely cooked. This includes as much wine, water and medronho as you can possibly drink.

You can catch a bus from Lagos and Portimao and the bus stops very near to the blue door of the restaurant. The journey from both major towns in the Algarve is about 20 minutes. If you take your own car you may find parking a problem as the restaurant is on the main street that runs through the village of Mexilhoeira Grande and the street is narrow and twists and turns. There aren't many free spaces as they are taken up with residents' vehicles.

I don't think the restaurant is suitable for disabled persons as the tables and benches are packed back to back on the bottom floor and obviously there is no lift or facility for a wheelchair user to reach the second floor.

Toilets are clean and adequate but not fancy in any way.

I suggest you reserve a table well in advance of the evening you wish to visit as it is always packed out. Meals are only served in the evening and opening hours are limited in the winter months. Adega Vila Lisa is an extraordinary restaurant with a great artistic flair and I thoroughly recommend a visit.

You can find;

Adega Vila Lisa at 52 Rua Francisco Bivar, Mexilhoera Grande, Algarve, Portugal.
Telephone number 351 282 968 478
Credit cards or cheques are not accepted so take cash
The set menu costs 35 Euros per head.
Open every day from July until September
Open Friday and Saturday only from October to June

Bon Appetite!

Summary: A vibrant restaurant where you can meet normal folk and Portuguese celebrities