Aeroflot Nord

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Who are Aeroflot Nord?
In 1991, when the Soviet Union broke up, Aeroflot was by far the largest airline in the world, as they were the sole operator of anything that flew in the Soviet Union - scheduled flights, government jets, air ambulances, even crop sprayers. As the Soviet Union fragmented, so too did the airline, breaking up into the regional divisions so that each major city got its part of the airline. So, Vladivostok ...
...Airlines have been bought by Aeroflot and renamed Aeroflot Nord. Still based in Arkhangelsk, they now operate a few additional routes from Moscow, including between the capital, Moscow, and Russia's second city and old Imperial capital, St Petersburg. This is quite welcome, as previously there had been almost no choice on the route, with a virtual monopoly by Pulkovo. Now, Aeroflot Nord operate four or five times a day, giving some worthwhile choice. ... more

Ever since I played the travel game "Go" as a kid, back in the 70s, I have always been fascinated by the idea that there is a city in northern Russia called Archangel - or Arkhangelsk, to give it the proper name. When I read the excellent thriller, Archangel, by Robert Harris, I decided that one day I must visit.

And I still feel the same - I must get there one day. No, this rambling preamble is not to explain that I have been; that remains a vague note on my "must do, one day" list. But I have flown on their airline.

Who are Aeroflot Nord?
In 1991, when the Soviet Union broke up, Aeroflot was by far the largest airline in the world, as they were the sole operator of anything that flew in the Soviet Union - scheduled flights, government jets, air ambulances, even crop sprayers. As the Soviet Union fragmented, so too did the airline, breaking up into the regional divisions so that each major city got its part of the airline. So, Vladivostok got the aircraft based there, which became Vladivostok Airlines; St Petersburg got St Petersburg Airlines, later renamed Pulkovo, Novosibirsk got Sibir and Arkhangelsk got Arkhangelsk Airlines.

In the years since then, there have been some new airlines, some mergers, some name changes. One of these is that Arkhangelsk Airlines have been bought by Aeroflot and renamed Aeroflot Nord. Still based in Arkhangelsk, they now operate a few additional routes from Moscow, including between the capital, Moscow, and Russia's second city and old Imperial capital, St Petersburg. This is quite welcome, as previously there had been almost no choice on the route, with a virtual monopoly by Pulkovo. Now, Aeroflot Nord operate four or five times a day, giving some worthwhile choice.

So, what do they fly?
The fleet is mostly Tupolevs - Tu-154s and Tu-134s - plus a few Antonov turboprops. These were all fine planes in their time but the Tu134s are now rather aged and their Tu154s are the older variety. That said, these planes were built solid and sturdy and have life in them yet. Only about half have been repainted so far, so you are as likely to end up flying on a plane that still says "AVL Arkhangelsk Avia Linie" on the side.

I've flown with Aeroflot Nord three times over the past twelve months, in business class, once on the larger, more comfortable Tu154 when my experience was quite excellent; the other two flights have been on the smaller, older Tu134 which was a bit more average.

At The Airport
At most airports in Russia, check in is done by the airport staff, not the airline's - so in other words, they are as good or as lousy as each other. Sadly for Aeroflot Nord, in most cases the check in staff at both Moscow and St Petersburg are bored, not interested and in some cases just plain lazy.

"Dobroe Utro," I smiled handing over our tickets to the two attractive but sullen girls behind the counter. They break off their conversation and glare at me. One reaches slowly for the tickets.
"Economy or Business?" the other asks.
"It says in the ticket. Open it and look." I answer. They did, and checked us in.

Maybe it was revenge, maybe just plain stupidity, but they gave us a boarding card without a seat for our toddler.
"He should have a seat," I pointed out.
"He is an infant," she answered abruptly.
"Yes, but look at the ticket. I bought a child ticket which means he gets a seat," I argued."So please either give him a seat or give me a refund."

I have plenty of patience if people don't know, or make a mistake, but are making an effort. However, I spend too much time in planes or at airports to tolerate the lazy and stupid and those who just don't care.

My other experiences have been less troubled that that one, but - with the best will in the world - I would have to describe a trip to the dentist as more pleasurable than the check in experience at either Moscow or St Petersburg.

But at least we got our boarding cards, seats together, and lounge invitations.

Travelling in Business Class, you get to use the Aeroflot lounge where there is one. At Moscow, on domestic flights, this is a small, windowless room just before the boarding gate - there are a few clusters of armchairs, a magazine rack and a bar with complimentary snacks such as sandwiches, rolls, crisps and chocolate and, more importantly, a free bar. At St Petersburg the lounge is larger, with a view of the runway, snacks and a help yourself bar with wine, beers and spirits.

Getting On Board
Boarding domestic flights at most Russian airports means a bus ride. Despite the infamous frozen winters, they never got round to giving citizens a way of boarding flights which didn't mean slipping and sliding onto buses, off again, up and down steps.

A stewardess stands just inside the door, with her hand out against the top of the door frame - Tupolevs have quite low doors so it is easy to bonk your head. Once you've ducked your way inside, she checks the boarding card and points you through into the first or second cabin.

I've flown in Business, where another member of the crew took my jacket to hang in the wardrobe as I settled into my seat. Once settled, I was offered a glass of juice. As we taxied out towards the runway, a basket of sweets was offered around, after the safety demo had been done.

During the flight
All three flights that I have taken have departed on time.

Nothing happens until the plane has got all the way up there and the seat belt signs are switched off, then the crew start with the meals, after offering small, wet paper towels. On the short flights that I have flown, there is no choice of meal. However, what they offer is actually quite good.

The stewardess came round the cabin opening everyone's table and placing a table cloth onto each. Then meal trays were brought out one at time.

One meal that I have had was some slices of cold chicken with a salad; warm roll and butter; slices of fresh fruit including pineapple, kiwi, orange and grapes; and a chocolate. Another meal was assorted cold meats followed by a piece of cake. Overall, not a gourmet fest, but not bad at all for a one hour flight.

One one of the flights that I have taken the crew were really exceptional. The two stewardesses were pleasant and helpful and, when we chatted with them, they were warm and friendly. On the other two flights, the crew were standard - they were polite and efficient.

Comfort on board
On the Tupolev 134, which is a small jet designed for short flights, there are just two seats either side of the aisle in both business and economy. In other words, the business seat is the same as economy, so it is up to you to decide whether to pay the extra for the same seat, just a nicer meal and use of the lounge. The windows don't have blinds, there is a real cloth curtain to pull across and there are probably no overhead lockers, just hat racks, so any larger items of baggage get stuffed behind the rear seats. The air vents are small and quite ineffective. Oh, and the aircraft are all around 30 years old.

The Tupolev 154, by contrast, is a bigger plane with three seats either side of the aisle or, in business, two larger seats. On these aircraft, the extra fare is probably worth it.

Frequent Flyer Programme
Aeroflot-Nord flights are operated as a codeshare with Aeroflot, which is common practice nowadays - for better or worse. So you can book the same flight either as Aeroflot flight SU696, or as Aeroflot Nord 5N878. That in itself is common - you can book a Lufthansa flight and find yourself on Scandinavian Airways, or you can book British Airways and fly on Qantas.

However the odd thing is that Aeroflot Nord have their own programme and are not, directly, part of Aeroflot's "Bonus" programme. What this means is that if you book the flight as the Aeroflot flight, you can get Aeroflot Bonus Points, but if you book it as Aeroflot Nord you can get points towards Nord's programme but not Aeroflot's.

Of course, if you are not a member of Aeroflot Bonus then it won't bother you. And you can always play along with the Aeroflot Nord frequent flyer system anyway! However, I am a member of Aeroflot Bonus, so I had to be sure to book the flight with the SU code, not the 5N !

Fares
Between St Petersburg and Moscow the one way fare in economy is about 2800 Rubles, so about US$100, and in business class it is about 6000 rubles, so double.

The price compares with Pulkovo's equivalent - a couple of hundred Rubles less - and about the same as the "real" Aeroflot's couple of flights on the route.

Summary
I do find Aeroflot Nord's onboard service to be a bit better than the norm. Sadly, the airport experience does get in the way, unavoidably. I do try to avoid the Tu134s aircraft, both for the age and for the lack of additional comfort in Business Class. If they would replace some of the older aircraft, and do their own check in, they would be a contender for five stars! Watch out, the other airlines!
 

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