Ainsdale Sand Dunes Nature Reserve

Author's product rating:   

Value for Money	Excellent
Sightseeing	Excellent
Shopping	Terrible
Nightlife	Good
Ease of getting around	Good

Advantages:	Far from the madding crowd .
Disadvantages:	One naked stalker and a herd of poachers .

Recommend to potential buyers:

yes

Full review

Ainsdale Sand Dunes National Nature Reserve was established to protect the habitat of the strange flora and fauna which are unique to this region of lime-rich coastal sand dunes. Its 1256 acres, lying south of Southport, have been managed by English Nature (and their predecessor organizations) since 1965. Facilities for humanoids are kept to a minimum (ie: there aren't any) in order to preserve the wilderness quality of the location. The Reserve has no car park as visitors are encouraged to arrive either on foot, in a hot air balloon, or by public transport. The nearest railway stations can be found at Ainsdale (1.2km) and Freshfield (1.36km) on the Liverpool to Southport 'Merseyrail' network. The nearest bus stops aren't near at all. Visitors are asked to take their debris and empty gin bottles home, as there are no litter bins on site …nor are there any toilets (although there are plenty of bushes to squat behind).

The distinctive landscape provides a place where sensitive, non-rowdy, tree-hugging, moon-gazing, sandal-wearing, wide-eyed Green people can quietly enjoy nature (free of charge) in a way that allows the local wildlife to continue to thrive. It is also a place where well-behaved dogs can be allowed to roam freely in order to re-enact ancient canine rituals … such as staring into rabbit burrows, rolling in fox excrement, wading into stagnant pools, and chewing owl pellets.

Background …

Ainsdale (or 'Einulvesdael' as it was called in the Domesday Survey of 1086) was formed entirely from sand, which was blown in from the wide beaches of the Lancashire Coast. The agriculturally-impoverished dune landscape provided a subsistence living for a scattered rural community of cockle-pickers and rabbit-catchers … but eventually the entire area fell into the hands of a family of double-barreled toffs who lived on the outskirts of Liverpool.

Charles Weld-Blundell's early 20th century vision for Ainsdale was that of a high-density residential town (to be called, immodestly enough, "Charlestown"). The realization of his Grand Plan would have led to the total devastation of Ainsdale's natural coastal environment, but fortunately the area's abject failure to attract builders, developers … or even potential residents … forced him to adopt Plan B: the management of his vast expanse of sand-dune wasteland. Weld-Blundell's major headache was that then (as now) the landscape is formed from unconsolidated material … and being exposed to the full force of the elements means that it is highly unstable.

The French Forestry Department had planted effective barriers of fir trees on the coastal land south of Bordeaux to overcome sand-shifting. Weld-Blundell had seen how these Corsican Pines had successfully flourished … despite the salt-laden Atlantic winds which would have swiftly destroyed other species. Thus he planted a broad belt of these non-indigenous trees on the inland margin of the Ainsdale dunes. Obviously it would not have escaped his attention that the French pinewoods had also led to the development of a highly profitable timber, resin, and turpentine industry. Upon maturing the Ainsdale trees also provided shelter for another of Weld-Blundell's French-inspired innovations …the planting of asparagus. This proved to be a more successful scheme than the squire's attempt to cultivate oyster beds in 1904 … when two million French bi-valves were buried on Ainsdale beach. Sadly there was to be no happy outcome for Weld-Blundell (or the shellfish) as strong local currents swept the oysters away into the murky depths of the Irish Sea.

Dramatic damage to the area occurred in 1936 when a fire destroyed some 30,000 of Weld-Blundell's trees, and many acres of scrubland. Later, during World War II Luftwaffe planes dropped bombs on the pinewoods and destroyed a further 40,000 trees in the mistaken belief that they had targeted Liverpool Docks … D'oh! Bang went Plan B.

Eventually the Weld-Blundells grew tired of Ainsdale and sold the land to the Local Authority … who promptly recognized that 'harvesting' sand could be a profitable endeavour. Between 1952 and 1963 some 800,000 tons of the stuff were removed from the frontal dunes. But environmental times were a-changing, and although the Council had already sold off a whole heap of land for Lego-style residential development (and extracted a further 570,000 tons of sand from the beach) the remaining dunes were designated a Nature Reserve. Hoorah!

Foreground …

Access to the interior of the Reserve is limited to a network of trails which are marked with paint-topped posts. Visitors are asked to keep to these designated pathways in order to minimize wildlife disruption, and to avoid getting themselves lost. (It's possible to become seriously disorientated away from the beaten track). The trails vary in terrain, hence some are more difficult to negotiate than others. None are entirely wheelchair-friendly, although I have managed to push mr-zeeman's disabled mother a reasonable distance into the Reserve without difficulty (and out again, obviously). The paths meander through the five different habitats, which each in their own way are important for the survival of a range of weird and wonderful rare species …

The Beach …
Apart from discarded plastic objects and dead gulls, the remains of crabs, shellfish, jellyfish, sea urchins etc, are washed onto the strandline of the flat, sandy, sun-soaked (eh?) foreshore. In autumn and winter large numbers of wading birds can be seen feeding or just wandering about, aimlessly. Strangely, the resident sea-bird population is small-scale, so the likelihood of having a butty snatched from your hand by an airborne assailant is fairly remote. An off-shore oil production platform provides a permanent blot on the horizon. Initially we environmentalists were alarmed by the danger of pollution from this facility, but apart from a relatively small leak of crude oil in 1999 it exists as only a 'potential' threat to local wildlife and a hazard to shipping.

Yellow Dunes …
The beach abruptly gives way to towering but unstable 'yellow dunes', where deep-rooted starr grass is the only plant species able to gain a foot-hold on the shifting sand. However, the characteristics of these Sahara-like dry hills make them an ideal location for basking Sand Lizards. And nudists.

Fixed dunes …
The gentler leeward slopes of the yellow dunes merge into areas of more stable dune grassland where the vegetation cover is more varied and complete. These wetter parts abound with flowers - Marsh Orchids flourish here, along with Field Gentian and White Grass of Parnassus, plus a wide variety of other plants (about 460 different species have been recorded), some of which are nationally rare such as Yellow Bartsia and Seaside Centaury. These areas also provide a good feeding and burrowing habitat for rare insects such as the Dune Tiger Beetle and the Vernal Bee. In spring and summer the hills are alive with the sound of Skylarks and Stonechats - just two of the more frequently-seen local birds.

It's amongst these 'fixed dunes' that wet marshy hollows known as 'slacks' occur. They are often flooded in winter, and remain damp throughout the rest of the year. The Reserve is home to dark and sinister-looking Crested Newts - and also provides accommodation for 20% of the UK's almost-extinct population of Natterjack Toads. Smaller than the hideous Common Toad, the yellow-striped Natterjacks require the shallow brackish water of the slacks in which to breed.

Scrubland …
Sea Buckthorn, Hawthorn, Birch and Willows form patches of 'scrub' and provide a scaffold upon which birds such as Bullfinches can nest-build. However, these areas frequently threaten to get out of hand by gradually invading the grasslands - so lumberjacks attack the bushes and shrubs whenever a threat is imminent.

Woodland …
Since the pinewoods were first planted in straight formal rows by Weld-Blundell, they have taken on a much more natural aspect. Although the dark dense interior is still fairly barren, around the periphery the Corsican Pines have been joined by deciduous trees such as Sycamore and Oak. Green-flowered Helleborine are easy to find here, and during autumn months some 200 species of fungi have been spotted. The woodlands provide a habitat for a strong population of Red Squirrels which can be seen bounding along the conifer branches in search of cones. Local people only ever mention Grey Squirrel immigrants in hushed tones. They were imported into Britain from America in the 19th century, and research published this year reveals that they now out-number our native Red Squirrel by 66:1. Pushed to the edge of extinction, a campaign has been launched to rescue the little red critters by means of ensuring their safety and well-being at 16 carefully selected national reserves - one of which is Ainsdale. Cocking a snook at Darwinism, any grey squirrel coming within 3 miles of the reserves face execution either by trapping, or by being shot by trained SAS marksmen.

Cautionary Tales … animal, mineral & vegetable …

Animal …
Rabbit burrows are common but not always obvious. They can cause a twisted or even broken ankle if an unwary walker happens to stand in one. Footwear with good ankle support gives the best protection.

Mineral … Strong winds have a tendency to blow sand into the eyes. When the wind speed exceeds force 7 it is advisable to wear goggles.

Vegetable … Mossy slopes can be surprisingly slippery in any weather and should be approached with caution. Greyhound Bob once tumbled down a steep slope and knocked himself unconscious.

Footnote …
Ainsdale Sand Dunes National Nature Reserve covers a large area and most of it is relatively remote:
i) Despite walking with three accompanying dogs, mr-zeeman was once followed for a fair distance through the pinewoods by a deranged chap with no kit on.
ii) If you see poachers pretend you haven't. If challenged they can become violent and/or abusive - and they're generally armed with spades.

All-in-all I would thoroughly recommend Ainsdale National Nature Reserve to anyone who enjoys pondering the nature of the universe whilst being buffeted by bracing sea-breezes ... and at the same time, despises the squalid commercialisation of the British coastline

For further information contact:
The Site Manager
English Nature,
2 West End Lodge,
Pinfold Lane,
Ainsdale,
Southport.
PR8 3QW.
Tel: 01704 578774

Or visit www.english-nature.org.uk and follow the links.
.
NB: Historical details gleaned (but not plagiarised, obviously) from 'New Ainsdale: The Struggle of a Seaside Suburb 1850-2000'. by Harry Foster