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SHOPPING > Travel > Europe > Italy > Sardinia > Sardinia Experience > Alghero, Sardinia (Italy) > Reviews

Alghero, Sardinia (Italy)

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TROPICAL ISLE IN THE MED by Joanne Jo Fox

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4 Jan 22nd, 2003  (Apr 15th, 2009)

111 Ciao members have rated this review on average: very helpful

Advantages:
Amazing turquoise blue ocean, wonderful food, history, architecture GELATO !

Disadvantages:
Drivers have it in for pedestrians !   Construction on the seafront

Recommendable Yes:

Detailed rating:

Value for Money

Sightseeing

Shopping

Nightlife

Ease of getting around

Reynarda

Reynarda

About me:

When asked about plans to quit she says: "And do what? Nothing? What would I do? I'm not compar...

Member since:22.11.2002

Reviews:26

Members who trust:64

We needed sunshine and Ryan Air had VERY cheap airfares from the UK to Sardinia.

Good question: where IS Sardinia (Answer: 10 miles from Corsica. And where is that? Answer: to the Left of Italy!)

When we arrived, we first tried to find the bus that was to take us to the city centre (reminds me of John Lennon's nearsightedness: "What Bus?"). This is when we KNEW we had not studied the Italian language CD's enough! But everyone understood the word "taxi", so got in a queue/lined up for the next one... and waited... and waited.

Finally a rather small cab turned up and we squished ourselves and luggage inside. (I had been warned that you can end up waiting ages for your luggage when you return to England on Ryan air, so opted for carry-ons only).

So off we went - zoom! ZOOM! - beware the way they drive! Not long into the ride, we came upon a Dead Ducatti in the Middle of the Road (with apologies to Loudon Wainwright III)! For the uninitiated, this is a VERY expensive motorcycle - we are talking over 6,000 bucks! The driver was okay but very depressed as he had less than 20 miles on the new bike!

Eventually we made it to our Hotel - the St Giuan, or San Juan, depending on your accent. This was when we understood more about Sardinia/Sardegna having more than one language as it is a mixture of Italian, Catalan, and ALL the other previous invaders. And we learned that the missing BUS would have taken us to the bus station - quite a way out of town and NOT walking distance to the hotel.

I was a tad disappointed with the hotel - on the positive side, we were 1/2 block from the beach. BUT this was across a very busy street and the drivers are NOT pedestrian friendly.

Our hotel was two star **; We had breakfast and drinks in front of the hotel, in a small paved area behind a bougainvilla hedge, nothing to look at but the side of the building.

However, the beach was just across the road from us. But there was no place to order a beverage at this part of the beach. To find such a place you had to walk towards town or towards the more built up portion of the beach.

And this walk was less than lovely, because you had to go past a lot of construction (road being dug up - apparently this is a cultural thing!) and even a place where there was some smelly outlet to the ocean (dont ask!)

BUT enough with the negative stuff! The hotel was run by a family who were very helpful and since our Italian consisted of Thanks, You're Welcome, Good day and More Beer, it was great to have someone who spoke English and who was endlessly patient with my inability to remember how to ask for my room key (18) in Italian!

Speaking of room 18, it was on the ground floor, so it was just a few steps out to the sunshine in the morning BUT, it was under the owners apartment and someone wore HIGH HEELS and clacked across the floor, and the ghost builders made a racket (we hung out our window but could not see them, hence the Ghost designation). We thought about asking to be moved, but were so happy to be there in the sunshine that the group mentality said, ah, let's just go to the Beach!

We parked ourselves in front of the most BLUE ocean, shallow, so you could walk out, and fine, white sand, like talcum powder. There was a gaggle of retired ladies who met there each day, and sat in the sun and chatted. Was surprised to find some hawkers, selling clothes. They were interested in the Canadian accent, but not too much of a pest.

We stayed in Alghero, in the North West. Big intentions to explore the whole place but it had everything we wanted, so we just hung out there for 5 days. Other parts of the island all have their own special character, from the North East, where the Aga Khan developed a very expensive posh area, to the south where there is more shopping and bustle, and the interior where there are more sights to see.

But we enjoyed the sea and the walled town - you could sit along the top of the wall and toast the sunset, and if a glass of wine wasn't your cup of tea, the Gelato, ah the Gelato! I have had 'italian ice cream' in other places, but it is nothing as good as this! My favourite was fruit of the cactus (Sardinia is tropical but arid and a good place for Prickly Pear cactus to grow) half and half with Limone (lemon) or Ciocolotto (chocolate, of course). It was not hard to figure out what you were eating, if you know a little french or spanish, you could get by!

We stopped at the Tourist information, who gave us a handy free map and a list of restaurants - with tratorria being family type, inexpensive but excellent food, pizzeria, being middle of the road and the more expensive restaurants having the lobster to match the local wine, a white tasty brew (called same as lobster in Sardinian).

I pooped out but my fellow travellers went to a club where the salsa dancing was top notch and kept them spell bound enough to forgive a rude waitron! No mind, they just countered by ordering two drinks eachtime, so they didn't have to wait!

The hotel ended up costing us about 30 euros/$ or 20 pounds per person per night, including breakfast of croissant and yoghurt, juice and coffee, for two sharing with either twin beds or double beds, with your own bathroom/shower.

Because it can be so hot in the summer, the windows have roll down, industrial strength blinds, which keep ALL the sun out! Of course, they also keep all the light out, so we found ourselves sleeping rather late!

There was a mini-train that did tours of the town, which I would have ridden (but was overruled by the rest) just to get my bearings. It was quite easy to find where you were, because of the large towers to use as landmarks.

So what will I miss about Sardegna? The thin, flat bread, like pita bread but baked in the oven and sprinkled with rock salt and olive oil! It was the first thing delivered to your table and we ATE IT ALL! The calamari (squid) grilled, and the local pasta which was small like a cereal.

And what do I wish I had known? That it gets very cool at night! I only brought one sweater/jumper and managed to spill gelato on the front the first day so I wished I had taken my denim jacket too(this was end of Sept/beginning of October).

Next time I want to take the 10 mile ferry trip to Corsica to see the contrasts and similarities, and to take the bus south and experience the other cities.

A tropical paradise in the Mediterranean, only a couple of hours from the U.K.; I'll be back...

Thanks for all the reads and thanks to Torr for the mention, too... Reynarda 

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Comments about this review »

Pomcamgirl 12.09.2006 13:54

I'm also going at the beginning of october! What were the weather and water temperature like at that time of the year?

jo145 24.09.2005 12:23

My husband wouldn't let me go on the train either! Jo

Kingseany 16.05.2004 07:42

Ryanair do have some good bargains don't they, opens up travel for a lot more people I think. Italy is somewhere I've wanted to go for a while, so maybe next year (too much already planned for this year!)

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