a place to rediscover forgotten cultures; beautiful landscape
Disadvantages:
huge distances to cover
Recommend to potential buyers:
yes
Full review
You don't need to fly all the way to Central Asia, South America or Central Africa to discover untouched territory. Southeast Turkey bears a treasure of undiscovered culture and nature - little known even by most Turks, let alone western tourists.
This is the land of the ancient Mesopotamia, the world's first real civilisation (that is if you don't believe in Atlantis), from 12 thousand years ago. Embedded between mountain ranges and the rivers of Euphrates and Tigris, this region has been the source of legends for generations. Let yourself be mystified.
This part of Southeast Anatolia is part of the Kurdish territory, and has been barred from visits for decades due to severe security threats. But since late 1999, this part of Kurdistan is open to visitors again, and you may only have a few years to discover this region before the whole land will be flooded by the gigantic GAP irrigation project.
------------------------- AUTHOR'S NOTE: I have been in doubt if my lengthy travel guides serve the purpose of Ciao, i.e. to support decision-taking by the consumer, or if I should rather publish them on a travel website. But my tour guides off the beaten tracks may let you see the country with different eyes and may help you make a decision towards your next holiday destination.
In the case of Turkey, most of us would think of Istanbul, the Mediterranean and Black Sea Coast or Capadocia first, so this review of Southeast Anatolia may provide a new perspective. For further reading on Turkey, please consult my Op on Istanbul. -------------------------
This tour suggestion is compiled from my own journeys in Autumn 2000. It starts in the city of Diyarbakir, continues with Hasankeyf, Mardin, Sanliurfa, Harran and the Ataturk Dam, and ends in the city of Gaziantep. The whole journey covers a distance of around 1000 miles and should be spread over four days at least.
If you want to follow my tour on a map, open a second window in your browser and go to the following link:
In the bottom right corner of the map, at the border to Syria, you will find the cities of Diyarbakir, Mardin, Sanliurfa and Gaziantep.
------------ THE TOUR ------------
MSNBC Correspondent Nicole Pope claims that "too few people are aware of Turkey's Southeast, a region that offers both historical sites and landscapes of spectacular beauty". So let's see what she is talking about.
DAY 1: DIYARBAKIR - BATMAN - HASANKEYF - DIYARBAKIR
The morning flight leaves Istanbul at 8 a.m. and arrives in Diyarbakir at 10. Since this is your first day and you are still full of energy, the longest day tour comes right in the beginning. This one leads to the Southeastern slopes of the Taurus mountains, and to the canyon and cave town of Hasankeyf.
From Diyarbakir the main road leads east through endless plains and cotton fields. Like everywhere on this whole journey where you see plantations, these are only a few years old. There used to be nothing but dry mud before the GAP irrigation project was launched.
After one hour of driving, the landscape gets rougher, and finally gets desert like. The first stop is the city of Batman, after a 100 miles drive. There isn't much to see in the town itself, but a little outside, the Malabadi bridge offers some very interesting views.
The Malabadi bridge is a large ancient stone bridge which crosses Batman river, from which the city has its name. At this point, antiquity meets modern technology, for right behind the bridge spans a large dam, part of the GAP project.
Behind Batman the road follows Batman River which 20 miles further joins the river of Tigris. The landscape gets ever more spectacular: salt lakes, stone deserts, deep canyons, caves, and mountain slopes in white, yellow and ochre colours.
Around 50 miles past Batman, you finally reach the ancient city of Hasankeyf. Scientists are unsure how old this town really is, but it may well date back to the ancient Mesopotamian empire. The caves and structures which can still be seen today are between 4,000 and 5,000 years old - so these could be the oldest buildings you get to see in your lifetime.
The scene: next to the Tigris river, the mountains rise 90 degrees steep from the water, around 80 meters high. The top of the mountain is covered with ruins of an ancient palace. The core of Hasankeyf lies in a narrow side canyon, and the surrounded mountains are filled with cave dwellings.
Where the side canyon meets the river, the remains of an ancient stone bridge cross the Tigris and the minaret (tower) of an old mosque overseas the scene. Part of the fascination of Hasankeyf comes from its extensive caves, which have been inhabited for over 4,000 years (and still are!). Here the cave people still live without electricity or water, and are living witnesses of history.
There aren't any official guides available in Hasankeyf, so you have to follow the kids who will show you around. Since there aren't many schools around here, the kids make their living as guides instead of learning to read and write. The illiteracy rate in this part of Turkey is over 30%.
Below the palace at the mountain top, a cave has been fitted to host a small restaurant where you should try the Shish from the grill outside. For some rest and a Turkish coffee, go down to the river, where small improvised bars are fitted outside on the river shore.
You may be among the first as well as the last western visitors to Hasankeyf, as the city is marked for destruction. The huge Ilisu Dam currently being built further down on the Tigris, will flood Hasankeyf in a few years, covering thousands of years of History.
This truly is a barbarian act, only to be compared to the flooding of the Yangtse river in China and the destruction of ancient Buddhist monuments in Afghanistan by the Taliban regime. Maybe the Egyptians can teach them a lesson on how to build a dam while at the same time preserving ancient monuments (Assuan).
Arriving back in Diyarbakir in the evening hours, make your home in one of the world's most historic hotels, the Kervansaray. This is a 500 years old caravanserai built around a garden court and fountain. It was once frequented by the caravans travelling the old Silkroad. Today, the hotel has been renovated and includes a large pool and bar complex in the back, but still perfectly resembles the historic atmosphere. This was probably my most exciting hotel stay ever.
DAY 2: DIYARBAKIR - MARDIN - DIYARBAKIR
Around 90 miles south of Diyarbakir, the city of Mardin overlooks the whole region from the top of a mountain. The drive to Mardin is very picturesque, through fields, slight mountain slopes and spots of pine forests, one of the milder landscapes of Anatolia.
Mardin is a wonderful site to discover old Islamic architecture and stonework. Take your time to promenade through the narrow old streets and squares with beautiful houses.
The main attractions in Mardin are Turkey's oldest Koran schools, the Kasim Pasa Medresse and the Sultan Isa Medresse, both with wonderful stonework dating back to the 14th Century. From the roof of the latter you can enjoy a breathtaking view:
To the north the city of Mardin with its arched windows and gates, to the south the endless plains of Syria. Mardin is only 10 miles away from the Syrian border, and on a clear day you can see the Syrian town of Al Qamishli.
Five miles east of Mardin lies Deyrulzaferan Monastery. Syrian Orthodox, it represents one of the smallest Christian confessions on earth, which still holds worship services in Aramaic, the language spoken by Jesus. There are some very old scriptures and relics to be found in this monastery.
Instead of taking an official tour, speak to the abbot, Father Jacob. He is a very nice man who speaks perfect English and German and will be most pleased to explain to you in detail Syrian Orthodoxy and the history of the monastery.
If you have the time, he will lead you through a theological discourse of the various branches of Orthodoxy and the history of Christianity. I had a fascinating and uplifting discussion with him. However, pay I him the respect he deserves and don't raise too many controversial issues, as he and his confession are extremely conservative.
Back in Diyarbakir in the afternoon, it's time to explore this city. The main sight is the 3 miles long Byzantine city wall, made of black basalt stone and perfectly preserved. Downtown, the old city centre is very picturesque with its original architecture and mosques.
Hasan Pasha Ham, an old caravanserai, now serves as a bazar and is an excellent place to purchase original textiles and carpets. On a whole, the old town of Diyarbakir is simply a nice place to promenade, shop and relax in coffee houses.
DAY 3: DIYARBAKIR - HARRAN - URFA
Leaving Diyarbakir in the early morning, the 150 miles drive west to Sanliurfa (or simply Urfa) takes around three hours. Before exploring the city of Urfa, the tour leads another 30 miles south of Urfa, to the ancient site of Harran.
Harran is an town of house completely made of mud looking like a bee hives, witnesses of the 4,000 years old Hittite culture. The legend has it that the prophet Abraham has spent many years of his life here. The mud houses are still inhabited and the people will kindly show you around.
A little outside are the ruins of the ancient Harran Islamic University, a huge stone structure looking pretty much like a castle. The culture in Harran here is more Arab than Turkish, so if you require guidance, the only foreign language spoken is French.
Now to the city of Urfa itself. Urfa is a green spot in Southeast Anatolia, with its many pistachio trees and spice plantations. It is also called the "City of the Prophets" because several biblical and Islamic prophets are said to have lived here.
The main sight is the Pool of Abraham, a system of pools and channels with thousands of carp fish. The carps are not to be touched or caught as they are sacred. There is a legend behind this: when Urfa was attacked by the Mongols, the inhabitants prayed to Allah and the attackers where turned to carps in an instant.
Next to the pool lies the beautiful Al Rahman mosque, and the old bazar. The bazar of Urfa is one of the most beautiful in all of Turkey and a perfect place for carpets, textiles and handmade jewellery, but also for food. Urfa is famous for its many sorts of red and black pepper.
You should definitely buy some pepper here. Some kinds are so mild that you can eat them without anything else, but there are also the extremely hot kinds. You should also buy fresh pistachios here, they taste a lot better and different from the roasted or salted kinds we can buy in Europe.
On a wooded hill overlooking the town lies a small castle which offers a spectacular view, especially at sunrise or sunset.
Urfa is also the city of pigeons, which are decorated with coloured rings. Running and flying around the town in masses, they are pampered and fed by the inhabitants.
For your overnight stay I would recommend the Edessa hotel which in traditional style nicely blends with the old city.
DAY 4: URFA - ATATURK DAM - GAZIANTEP
The last day starts with a tour to the huge Ataturk Dam, the centrepiece of the GAP irrigation project, 30 miles northwest of Urfa. The dam has flooded the river of Euphrates, and has brought furtility to the whole region, but also started a political struggle with Syria over who gets how much water.
The dam is spectacular site to visit, but one should bear in mind the ecological effects. It is a two-sided medal: on the one hand it provides water to the poorest part of Turkey and thus creates new perspectives for economic development, but the dam projects also flood ancient historical sites and destroys the original landscape.
There is an information centre at the dam which shows all the dams and irrigation projects currently planned in Turkey. Eventually, they want to flood 32% (thirty two percent) of the whole surface of Turkey!
The road to the dam is a cul-de-sac, so you have to back to Urfa for your onward travel. Next, and last on our journey, comes Gaziantep (or simply Antep), a 120 miles drive west from Urfa. Half along the way, the road crosses the Euphrates river. There is a small resort area on the riverside which invites you for a short break.
Like Urfa, Antep is a very green town, with nut, pistachio and olive trees. With less sights to visit than the previous destinations, Antep is nice town to get some nice views and relax at the end of this journey.
The town is overlooked by Kale Castle, which was built in Byzantine times, and restored by the Seljuks in the 13th Century. To learn about the Hittite and Commagene empires and their remains in Antep, visit the Archaeological Museum and/or the Hasan Suser Ethnographical Museum. End the tour with a promenade through the picturesque labyrinth of small streets.
Antep also is the home of Turkey's most famous sweet desert - Baklava - which is a must-try, much better than the one you get in Istanbul.
And that's where you are heading back. The flight to Istanbul leaves from Gaziantep at 7 p.m., and at 9 p.m. you are back at the Europe - Asia divide on the Bosphorus.
ONWARD TRAVEL
If you want to stay in the region, there are three main options to continue your travel from Antep. I haven't included them in my tour plan because they aren't part of Southeast Anatolia anymore.
1) North towards Nemrud Dag (centre of the ancient Commagene Kingdom), the Taurus Mountains, and Central Anatolia, the cities of Kayseri, Nevsehir and Konya, and finally Ankara.
2) South, across the Syrian border to the city of Aleppo and through Syria, return flight from Aleppo or Damascus.
3) West towards the holiday resorts around Antakya, the biblical Antioch, and the city of Adana. Return flight from Adana.
---------------------------------------------------- ESSENTIAL INFORMATION BEFORE DEPARTURE ----------------------------------------------------
SAFETY: Although terrorist activities by Kurdish radicals have almost completely stopped since the arrest of Kurdish leader Abdullah Öczalan in 1999, there still remains a small safety risk in Southeast Anatolia. Journeys should only be undertaken in the company of Turkish guides, friends or colleagues. Due to frequent road controls by Turkish military and police, always have your passport with you.
GETTING THERE: Turkish Airlines operate two daily flights each from Istanbul and Ankara to Diyarbakir and Gaziantep respectively. If you want to cut the tour in the middle, there is also one daily flight from Istanbul to Sanliurfa. Return fares are around 120 Pounds from Istanbul and 100 Pounds from Ankara.
GETTING AROUND: This tour can only be done by car. Turkey's largest car rental firm, Decar, has branches in Diyarbakir, Sanliurfa, and Gaziantep. There aren't any motorways in the Southeast, so travel is quite slow. Calculate one hour for every 50 miles. Traffic in the Southeast is very little, not to be compared with the jams and mad drivers in and around Istanbul, so driving can be recommended to westerners.
LITERATURE: After a year of research, I still haven't found a single travel guidebook of Turkey that would include Southeast Anatolia. This again proves the exclusivity of the region. To gain a feeling of life, myth, adventure and nature in this part of the world, you may like to read some of the fantastic novels by Yasar Kemal, e.g. the Anatolia trilogy or the Memed trilogy.
