I'm baaaaaaaaaaaaack. Be afraid. Be very afraid....
I'm baaaaaaaaaaaaack. Be afraid. Be very afraid....
Member since:22.02.2001
Reviews:166
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A few years back, hubbie and me travelled around Southern Spain for a week or so. I can tell you about some of the places we visited, and I can also tell you about the emergency room of the big hospital in Grenada, but more of that later...
PLACES TO VISIT
Marbella - Other than the exclusive club complex and a load of tourist shops and eateries, there's nothing left of the original small fishingvillage. The major highlight of the area has to be Puerto Banus. Here you can sit in the waterside cafes and restaurants to watch the stinking rich parade themselves. Not forgetting their boats, and in some cases, small ships.
The shops here are set in charming little alleyways, and I heard one woman comparing it to "The Lanes" in Brighton. I kinda got what she meant, but I still think she was missing the bigger picture somewhat. This is serious money territory, and a serious lack of IQ is sometimes required in order to spend it. I found it to be inordinately expensive, and yearned for the English idea of price rip offs for tourists as opposed to the ones here. The setting is charming. The buildings are beautiful. That laid back mediterranean atmosphere was certainly portrayed
magically here, but I was damned if I was going to pay through the nose for a momento of it all!
We made do with a meal in Sean Connery's favourite restaurant, complete with juggling street performers giving an impromptu performance, but didn't see the great man. Shhadly.
Back in towards Marbella, there's Tony Dali's place for a meal. A famous crooner in the 1950's, he had retired to this magnificently large restaurant to sing and serve food to the customers. A big man, with a big voice, he made us feel truly welcome. (Oh and we sat near to Linda Lusardi too!) The food was okay, but it could've been better, especially considering the mound of money involved.
TRAVELLING INLAND
Leaving there, we went to Cesares, about 5 miles inland of Marbella, and infinitely more genuine and beautiful than I'd seen elsewhere. A traditional hill-side Southern Spanish village, with fantastic views down to the sea, it was quiet and quaint, and although there wasn't actually anything there of note, we came away with some excellent photographs of the buildings and scenery. The locals were much more pleasant and friendly here too.
Mijas is an old Spanish town, again inland and up into the hills. Here we went on a donkey ride through the streets, although I wasn't very keen at first. I was even less so after having seen the guy who was holding my husband's donkey, punch the animal square on the jaw because it wouldn't stand still. We got off and after a few sharp words with the young guy, strode off for a look around. The usual selection of ceramics were available, and as nice as the place was, the incident over the donkey made me just want to get the hell out.
Coin is again, a typical mountain village, but this is only reached after a huge climb up, which I hasten to add, we did by car. We picked up an old man half-way up the road as it would have taken him DAYS to have kept walking it. He didn't speak any English, but he was mightily grateful to us, and after having completed the journey with him, we knew why. Again, these places are a arty photographer's dream, and being a pretend-arty photographer we gave it a go. Got some good results too!
Ronda was the next stop off, and probably one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited. Home to the first bull ring in Spain, built it the 1700's, this is popular with the tourists primarily for the fantastic views afforded by the fact that the town is set on top of a gorge, and a mind-boggling big bridge joins the old town on one side, with the new town on t'other. Quite breathtaking. At night you could sit in the formal park and watch the sun go down over the Sierra Nevada mountain range in the distance. It magically changed colour from orange to deep red to a purple hue as the hot sun descended, just wonderful.
The bull ring is eerie. We visited when there were no events due to be held, and sauntered round the museum there instead. After seeing some of the photos we knew we'd made the right decision in not watching a real fight. They are inordinately proud of this tradition though, and didn't take too kindly to my face pulling, but ce la vie (don't know the spanish equivalent).
Grenada was a bit of a shock after the tranquility of the spanish villages. A big city, this place was really heaving, busy and noisy. We visited the Alhambra Palace, a vast and magnificent Moorish complex of some truly exquisite buildings and gardens. Sadly I can't tell you too much more than this as I'd been feeling unwell and wasn't taking it all in. My hubbie only spoke Majorcan spanish and not the dialect spoken on the main land, so when calling in to the local chemist for pain-killers for my symptoms, we used a handy board that they had with stick men pictures representing how you were feeling. We worked our way through these and came away with stuff they said would help. Sadly it didn't, and come 2 o'clock in the morning I was in so much pain with what we'd thought was a toothache, that we got ourselves off the the hospital. More problems with language, but they managed to explain that I had an infection in the jaw bone - exacerbated by being in such high temperatures - pumped me with enough valium to wipe me out for 3 days while he flight was arranged to get me back home. Ho hum! They don't have an NHS system like ours, and a letter requesting £35 was sent to our home address later. It's all in Spanish though, so be warned!
THE BEACHES.
Dreadful ones locally in Marbella. The beaches looked clean enough, but a quick run into the water and you soon found out where all the building rubble is dumped. Hubbie sliced his big toe open on what looked like an old door lintel. And this was the beach that served the Marbella Club too! No wonder that the idle rich never left the waterfalled pool area and sun-loungers. The water was grey and dirty, and a real let down.
Torremolinas and Benalmedina (spelling?) were the nearest big resorts, and are actually a lot nicer than I thought they would be. Whilst Torremolinas was still bright and busy, it was no where near as tacky as the name has always conjured up with me.
GOLF
The golf courses also abound in and around the local area, and I have it on good authority that they're wonderful. I, personally can't stand the sport so I've never visited one, but I should imagine that as Sean Connery's a local, then they'd have to be decent.
FOOD
Typically Spanish inland, but if you're sticking round the coasts then you can eat as much English-style food as your cholesterol-fed heart desires!
HOTELS
We stayed in the Club Marbella Complex as part of a prize that hubbie had won at work. 3 days of magnificent luxury, but waaaaaaaaaaay too snobby to be really comfortable in. Most of the accommodation here were large residential villas, but there was an apartment block where the plastic rich could reside for the holidays. Gorgeous, but unless you're really loaded, expect a slightly different attitude towards you.
In Ronda we stayed in the Hotel Victoria, just across from the main park, with fantastic views and service. Average price and excellent value.
Grenada and we stayed in a lovely place, who's name escapes me now, but it was right next door to the Alhambra Palace. Posh, great views, great food, and very helpful night staff who helped us get packed up quickly, sorted out a map with a route to the hospital, and wished us well!
SHOPPING
Great value for ceramics and leather goods, and not too bad for clothes. They aren't cheap but they are of an excellent quality.
SUMMARY
Andalucia is wonderful. Get away from the tourist spots to find the real Spain, and you won't be disappointed. Great scenery, great food, and friendly locals made for a really enjoyable and relaxing break.
Nice hospitals too!
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