Angkor (Cambodia)

My friend Kath and I spent a fantastic holiday in Thailand and Cambodia in 2002. Having spent a week or so in Koh Chang (Thailand), we went to visit my cousin who lives in Phomn Penh, and from there we explored the amazing wonder of the world that is Angkor.

I dug out my journal recently, and thought I'd give you some highlights:
So, if you'd like to step this way, we'll explore Angkor.....

Cambodia is situated between Thailand, Laos and Vietnam.

We flew from Bangkok to Phomn Penh, the capital of Cambodia, and had planned on taking a boat trip up the Tonle Sap to get to Siem Reap (Northwestern Cambodia).
So, first a quick word about the boat trip. My brother took this trip previously, and gave us some tips, which I think it's important to pass on. Firstly, the trip costs $15 for a fast boat and $10 for a slow boat (7 hours, which is the one we were going to take). The safest place to sit is on the top of the boat, however, it will get very hot up there, and it is best if you cover yourself completely with a scarf or sarong.

We had this all planned and were ready to go, when my friend got ill. So we got tickets to fly into Siem Reap ($53 one-way).
The plane was great - a very old Russian twin prop. It was very shaky and not a little scary at times! Not the comfiest journey, but lots of fun!

When we arrived, we had a taxi take us around a few hotels. As you might expect in this area of the world, the taxi driver is on commission to take you to certain hotels. We managed to pursuade our driver to take us to a few different places.

Siem Reap itself has a lovely, laid-back rural feel to it. Siem Reap takes a back seat to Angkor - that's basically why people visit it. However, I think it would still be worth a visit in its own right.
I'm going to put all my stuff on Siem Reap in a review of Siem Reap itself.

We stayed at the Sunrise Guesthouse that had rooms with air-cons for $16 a night. Very friendly staff. The rooms were pretty standard, at around that price you'll find lots of guesthouses which offer pretty much the same conditions. We requested a fan, as the air conditioning and fan that was in the room was a little pathetic, and it gets very hot!
Comfortable and pretty clean, but nothing special.

We arranged a couple of (small) motorbikes through the hotel, and they picked us up after breakfast (we hired them for three days at a cost of around $30). The drive into Angkor is about 10mins or so and we arrived in Angkor at 10am.
The bikes are driven by locals who know quite a bit about the temples, but it varies from person to person. I think motorbike is the best way to get about as you're out in the elements, which means you feel closer to the scenery.
It's best, as a woman, to sit side-saddle for modesty - you get used to it!

A three day pass cost us $40. You must have passport photos for the pass.
I don't want to go into loads of details about the history of Angkor, but a quick history lesson:
Angkor, was the Capital of the Ancient Khmer Empire, which ruled much of what is now Thailand, Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam. It was possibly founded around the Ninth Century AD by King Jayavarman II. The city reached its peak glory in the 12th Century under Kings Suryavarman II and Jayavarman VII. Of the 100 or so temples (some are probably still undiscovered) Angkor Wat (temple), is the most beautiful and most famous monument in the city.
Angkor was abandoned in the 15th Century and "rediscovered" by Frenchman Henri Mouhot in the late 19th century.

We started at Bayon and Angkor Thom - the inner royal walled city. We entered by the south gate - an impressive affair with four faces watching from the top, facing each direction of the compass.

Amazing stuff - beautiful reliefs and stonework. The Bayon is filled to bursting with giant, smiling, stone faces that are possibly the most recognisable in Khmer architecture. Their eyes in shadow, they gaze down, smiling enigmatically, as you walk along you are constantly watched by a handful of these serene faces.

We moved onto Ta Phrom. This is, without a doubt, my favourite place - possibly in the world!
The temple, all towers and courtyards, is surrounded by jungle and is, in fact, being swallowed up by the trees around it. It has been left pretty much as it was found, still in its ruined state, with blocks of lichen-covered stone littering the floor. Fig trees grow around and sometimes out of the temple - an symbiotic relationship seems to have occured, where, were the trees to be removed, the temple would collapse and crumble.

From there we went to Banteay Kdei and Sras Srang, south of Ta Phro.
Similarily to Ta Phrom, Banteay Kdei is largely unrestored, and similraily breathtaking.
A low temple, you step up a couple of stone steps to enter Banteay Kdei, past lion-like statues that guard the raised verandah-like area. Once again, the entrance is surrounded by lichen-covered stones, and you step forward and through the doorway into the temple itself, under the gaze of the visages of Avalokiteshvara (the embodyment of compassion).
Sras Srang is a pictureque "baray" - man made lake.

Trying not to get too "templed-out" we called it a day at this point.

The next morning stated with the Roulos Group - 13km east of Siem Reap, this used to be the capital before Angkoe. Just three temples, it is worth a visit if only because it is quiet with few people around, you feel that you have the place to yourself.
There are amazing carvings here, etched deep into the stones.

We wanted to be at Angkor Wat for sunset. It was magnificant, but crowded - everyone else wanted to see the sunset too!
Angkor Wat is built on three layers that look like seperate buldings, apparently this makes it look higher than it really is.
I don't buy this - I think it really is that high! Not least beacause the climb up the final layer was one of the most awsomely scary things in my life (the scariest was the climb down!) - serious vertigo moment.
There are the steepest steps known to mankind, with a rickety bannister to cling to, if you're desperate.

Sadly, the sunset was obscured by cloud, but I'm sure it's lovely! However, in the light of the setting sun, the temples took on a warm glow. Beautiful.

On our final day, we went to Preah Neat Prean, Ta Som and Preah Khan (known as The Grand Circuit).
Preah Khan is much like Ta Phrom, surrounded by jungle and being eaten by trees, but it is in a better state of preservation. As you walk through the dorrways become longer and narrower as you move towards the central sanctury
The architecture is amazing.
Neak Prean is a buddist temple in the centre of a man-made pool, with smaller pools to each side. Each small pool has a spout - an elephant in one, a human head in another.
The pool is dry, but you can picture the temple surrounded by water, the only way to get to it was by boat or swimming.
Finally, the temple of Ta Som. This little moated temple is charming, but was being rennovated when we were there, it was in an advanced state of ruin. There are more face-towers and beautiful reliefs. It was quiet here, and a lovely way to end our visit.

The next day we flew back to Thailand.

We flew British Airways, which cost around £400, I think.
Flights from London to Bangkok start at £345 (through expedia).
We flew with President Airlines from Bangkok to Phomn Penh, which, if I remember rightly, cost around £80-£100, bought from Kaoh Sahn Road in Bangkok (trips can be arranged from your home country over the internet or with travel agents).
You can fly directly from Bangkok to Siem Reap, or from UK to Siem Reap (around £510).

We bought all food from Siem Reap, but food is available at Angkor, and water (a necessity) - always make sure you carry plenty of water, it gets very hot!
Wear light, cotton clothing, but have some way to cover up your arms and legs in case you need to in order to go into a temple.
We budgeted $5 a day for food.

If you go, please do not stray away from the marked paths as there is some risk from landmines in the jungles around Angkor. (I've talked more about landmines in my Siem Reap review). If you are careful there is no danger.

Angkor was one of the most amazing experiences of my life - so much so that I'm going back next year for my honeymoon.