Antwerp (Belgium) > Reviews > Diamond

Author's product rating:   

Value for Money
Sightseeing
Shopping
Nightlife
Ease of getting around

Advantages:	Well - preserved and picturesque, lively nightlife, not expensive
Disadvantages:	Not a well - known destination

Recommend to potential buyers:

yes

Full review

I’m probably biased here, seeing as the Belgian side of my family comes from Antwerp originally, but I think that this town really is underrated as a tourist destination – it’s the kind of place that most people have heard of, but no-one really knows much about it, or goes there! This in itself is a shame, as this is a place with plenty to offer, whether you are just passing through or planning a weekend break.

Antwerp is a very easy place to get to by car or train, being only about half an hour’s drive from Brussels and well served by the Belgian rail network. There is also a small airport (Antwerpen-Deurne), which is served mainly by Sabena, with flights to and from London City Airport. The size of the airport and the irregularity of the flights does mean that it is not a cheap place to fly to, however. The language barrier does not really exist either, as most Flemings speak excellent English, and you can also get by with French or German without any problems.

Legend has it that the river played a large part in the naming of Antwerp – in the time of Julius Caesar, there was a giant who lived on an island in the Scheldt and extorted large toll payments from the ferries that crossed the river, cutting off mens’ hands if they could not pay. This continued until a Roman general by the name of Brabo ventured out to the island, challenged the giant and vanquished him. He cut off his hand and cast it into the river, and thus a name was born, taken from the words for hand and throw (‘werpen’).

Antwerp was, and to an extent still is, one of the major trade centres in Western Europe. Positioned on the Scheldt estuary, the city has excellent access to international trade routes for sea cargo, and still boasts a large port area, second in size only to Rotterdam, although the hub of activity has moved from the old city centre docks to the Waasland area further upstream. However, the old market areas have been preserved along the dockside, and one of the large warehouses is now home to ‘Mini Antwerp’, a scale model of the city. The importance of the city to international trade is also reflected in the shape of the first skyscraper built in continental Europe, still prominent on the skyline – and Ford chose Antwerp as the site of their first factory outside the US, I believe...

The main problem posed by the Scheldt is that it is very deep on the south bank, but very shallow and marshy on the north, which means that the city only flourished on the south, as this was where all the trade was concentrated. The river was doubled in width in the 18th century to enable ships of greater draught to gain access to the port, but the channels still have to be dredged regularly and the north bank is still dominated by marshes and reeds, making building work of any sort next to impossible. This is emphasised by the lack of bridges – the only way to cross the Scheldt is to travel through one of Antwerp’s tunnels, the Kennedy and Waasland tunnels being the two main ones. You can find out more about the importance of the river to the city by taking a boat trip round the Scheldt harbour, and each trip normally lasts about an hour and gives you an excellent tour of the waterfront and harbour area.

Antwerp castle, perched on the bank of the river, has now been turned into the national maritime museum, and the city itself is remarkably well preserved, despite the fact that it was a major strategic target for both sides during World War II – control of the Scheldt port was essential for any side wishing to control the Low Countries, and the battles around Antwerp were fierce. The old, traditional buildings are still in evidence all around the old city centre, with their characteristic narrow build, normally four stories high with loading winches and windows on the upper floors as the staircases were too narrow and steep to carry anything up them. Where the buildings have decayed, the style has been retained in those constructed to replace them, which is a nice touch.

The history of the town is reflected in many of the street names – places such as Kaasstraat, Melkmarkt and Zilversmidsstraat give plenty of clues to the trades that once predominated in the old town, and Pelikaanstraat is home to the diamond dealers, the trade for which Antwerp is perhaps most famous (and to digress, that is also the industry my great-grandfather worked in). This area is also where you are likely to see a rare thing – crowds of Orthodox Jews in full black garb, with hats and curls as well, as Antwerp is still home to a thriving Jewish population.

The city centre is dominated by the imposing gothic structure of Antwerp cathedral, a dark, towering testament to belief and hard labour that took many years to build. The Church of Our Lady is well worth a visit, and houses an impressive collection of Renaissance art as well. The Grote Markt (main square) is near the cathedral, and where the Grand Bazaar used to stand, you now see the Antwerp Hilton, carefully constructed behind the preserved facade of the famous old market and store.

If there is one thing Antwerp is not short of, it is shops, cafes, bars and restaurants – you are unlikely to get bored in this town, especially as many bars and night-clubs enjoy late licence, or even 24-hour opening if you’re lucky! During the day though, it can be worth hopping on a tram or bus to somewhere like Deurne or Berchem, as these suburbs are a bit quieter than the centre and there are plenty of places to go. The Rivierenhof park is also a lovely place to go for a walk, or just somewhere to sit in the shade, relax and enjoy the peace and quiet.

Essentially, there is something for everyone here – you can while away the days wandering round the picturesque streets of the old town, visiting the cathedral, walking in the park or just sitting at one of the many cafes sipping a delicious Belgian beer, which is what I’d like to be doing right now!