New job, trying to make time for reviews......and hedonism!!
New job, trying to make time for reviews......and hedonism!!
Member since:29.11.2006
Reviews:47
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The Hotel Astoria is situated in Coimbra, one of the four major cities of Portugal. The other three are Lisbon, Oporto and Braga, and the Portuguese (bless them!) have a little ditty to describe all four. They say, in between mouthfuls of roast suckling pig, that 'Braga prays, Oporto works, Coimbra studies and Lisbon plays'. From that you can probably guess that Coimbra is the principaluniversity town, their version of Oxbridge. It is, in my opinion the best-looking and friendliest major city in Portugal. The bulk of the city and the campus areas are on and around a dome like hill and is the usual Portuguese mix of white marble and redbrick squalor. The residential and commercial centre however is on the banks of a wide meandering river, the River Mondego. It is here that you will find the Hotel Astoria, overlooking the river and close to the main bridge.
Coimbra is almost
exactly half-way between Lisbon and Oporto and to that end is easily accessible from both those cities' major airports. There is a high speed TGV style (Alpha Pendular) train service between Lisbon and Oporto which will get you to Coimbra cheaply in about an hour from both ends. There is also the main N1 north-south motorway (autostrada) if you have a death wish.
A friend and I had arranged our stay at the hotel over the internet and had no idea, bar the above photo, of what to expect. It was late June of last year.
Getting out of the taxi from the station, which is quite a walk otherwise, the outside of the building looked like any other grubby but majestic old colonial-style Portuguese building. The entrance, however, started to arouse my curiosity. It is one of those revolving doors, the old wooden variety that can only take one at a time, and creaks. Once we had negotiated that and got into the lobby we thought that someone had spiked our drinks on the train, for we had the distinct impression that we had just entered the 1920's. In front of us was the reception desk complete with smiling manager and his attendant livery-attired bellboys. To our right was a large dining room which has a high gallery having the function of a library and reading area. To our left was the lounge and bar. The whole place was decked out in wooden panelling, velvet upholstered armchairs and sofas, as well as ceiling-high mirrors. It could have been the Titanic or the Orient Express. There was a man smoking a cigar in an armchair with his back to me. I had the distinct impression that if I had tapped his shoulder, Hercule Poirot would have turned to face me.
Then there was the lift. Our impression of an Agatha Christie novel was affirmed by the lift. It is brilliant! See-through on three sides with a velvet cushioned bench at the back. The lift shaft is a wrought iron lattice-work column. I could have ridden it all day.
Unfortunately the antique ambience was a disadvantage when we came to the room. It was clean and comfortable but lacking in facilities. I didn't mind at all but my friend, who's a bit posh, was disappointed. The bathroom was large and had the usual array of freebies but the shower was in the bath, which could result in death, or even murder! A lot of cupboard space and the traditional kettle and choice of undrinkable coffee sachets and tea bags. There was cable TV but with a very limited choice of channels; mostly international news channels, BBC Prime and the French and German equivalents, belying its use as a tourist stop-off. My friend moaned about the lack of pornography, and I'm sticking to that story. That said, the stone columned balcony had a superb view of the river, which is just 50m away. I would insist on a front-facing room. There are around 60 rooms in all.We were there during the Festa of Santa Isabel and were treated to a magnificent fireworks display on the river.
Breakfast was a help-yourself buffet and included everything the British, German or French might eat for breakfast. However their idea of the English breakfast is a little eccentric, but if you've travelled in Europe you'll know what I mean. There was no limit to how much you could eat. My friend, who is not only posh and perverse, but also a pig had eight Danish pastries and god knows how many croissants!
Lunch and dinner were spectacular and very large portions. They did come as extra on the bill though. The smoking lounge and bar are open all night. We know this because my friend is also an alcoholic. The staff are remarkably friendly and helpful apart from the morning cleaners who were a pain, but aren't they always!
The room cost us 80 euros a night just in high season and dinner and lunch were 15 euros a head. You will get better deals at different times of the year though. I thoroughly enjoyed it just for the ambience, the views and the friendly staff but if you're the type that likes all mod cons it wouldn't be for you. I suspect that at one time the Hotel Astoria was once the premier hotel in Coimbra. I also know that Coimbra was once an important stop on the grand tour of Europe back in Edwardian times. Coimbra is a classically beautiful city. The hotel certainly hasn't changed much since then. I loved it for that reason but could understand that many might not. Someone really should suggest holding a Murder Mystery weekend there. The spirit of Poirot might join in.
Pictures of Astoria Hotel Coimbra
Coimbra from across the river.
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