I visited Egypt on holiday nearly two years ago now, yet the excitement and awe that the ancient monuments inspired, and the wildly different culture are still fresh in my mind. I went with the holiday company Explore, whom I would highly recommend. Although the trip was expensive it covered Cairo, Thebes and Aswan, with time split between hotels and a Nile cruise. For this type of holiday you are probably looking at paying out a lot of money.

The best thing about using a company like Explore is that they take you in small groups, they believe in ethical tourism and arrange a number of more adventurous trips which give you a chance to meet local people. The trip began in Cairo and after a night or two we boarded a bus which took us down to Thebes. In Thebes we boarded our boat and settled in for the most enjoyable part of the trip, sailing slowly down the Nile to laidback Aswan.

Cairo is a monstrously huge city and I found it quite intimidating. There are armed troops on virtually every corner (Egypt has the highest number of troops in the world per head of population) but before you get too worried it is worth remembering they are there to protect you and are supposed to make you feel safe. I had assumed that Cairo being the biggest city in Egypt and the capital would be less fanatically religious however women should wear long sleeves and cover their legs unless they want to be constantly pointed and stared at. This is not really a great hassle and cheap white cotton clothes perfect for the heat can be bought in the markets. It is important to try and respect the culture and you will find people are more friendly if they think you are trying, for example even a couple of words of Arabic can really help.

The main attraction in Cairo is of course the pyramids which quite frankly are incredible. If you consider the age of the structures, and the building and engineering feats involved, it is difficult to imagine anything man-made that is more impressive. If it is not too busy you may get a chance to enter one of the pyramids, however it is very hot inside and it can be difficult to breath. While in Cairo the museum is also well worth a visit housing countless beautiful works of ancient Egyptian art and sculpture, not to mention the mummy room (it costs extra). Leaving Cairo we passed through some of the poorer parts of town including a shanty town built on a graveyard, this type of poverty is shocking and helps explain why many Egyptians see tourists as incredibly rich.

Thebes, or Luxor, is a beautiful city, much smaller than Cairo, with the Nile as the main thoroughfare. The essential points of interest here are the Valley of the Kings which houses the tombs of many of the greatest Pharaohs, the Karnak temple complex and the temple of Hatchepsut. The main part of the city and the temple complex are on the east bank with the tombs and Hatchepsut's temple on the west bank of the Nile. It is possible to go donkey trekking over the cliffs to the Valley of the Kings and this method does afford some spectacular views, for the less adventurous there are taxis (both the normal kind and horse-drawn ones are available). Also in the main part of the city you will find the market which is full of potential bargains as long as you like haggling.

The final part of my trip included Aswan and a visit to the unmissable Abu Simbel. Sailing down the Nile from Thebes was an incredible experience, you could see how the river was essentially the source of all life with a small patch of green farmland on either side which soon dissappeared into sand and mountains. Aswan is in the south of Egypt and consequently has a more Nubian influence. There are a variety of floating restaurants which are wonderful to relax in at night and look beautiful all lit up with lanterns. The main things to visit here are the impressive Aswan Dam (if you like that kind of thing) and the Kom Ombo Temple, which is on an island. You will find that taxis are happy to take you around all of the places and wait for you while you look around, just make sure to agree on a price before hand.

The visit to Abu Simbel cost around £80 extra because you have to fly down to it (the road was closed when we were there). I would stress that this trip is well worth the money, I guarantee you have probably never seen anything like this incredible monument before in your life. It was built by Ramses II and had to be moved piece by piece when the Aswan Dam was constructed to save it from the rising water. We arrived just as the first rays of the morning sun were shining across the huge and ancient face of Ramses II and I must admit, it took my breath away.

There are a few things in Egypt which may make some people uncomfortable. Firstly it is a strictly Muslim country and their attitudes to women are sometimes degrading or insulting. There are some easy ways around this though, dress sensibly and if you are a couple pretend that you are married and you will find you get far less hassle. Also if you intend to buy anything you will have to haggle, in fact they will have no respect for you if you don't try to haggle and it should be possible to find a price that seems cheap to you but also allows the vendor a decent profit. Try not to allow yourself to be intimidated into buying anything you don't want by avoiding eye contact and walking away. Also remember that the heat is intense so be prepared.