I recently took a four day break in Athens with my wife and thirteen year old son. Like all cities, we found it had good and bad bits, but on the whole, I would highly recommend a visit.
Our hotel was located just off an area called Omonia Square. The guide book described this area as 'gritty'. I guess we should have read into that what we actually found. There are men with obvious Heroin addictions wandering around the area day and night. Prostitutes can be seen plying their trade. One of these was at least sixty-five years old and was wearing a skirt that revealed her bum cheeks. The shock registered by my wife and me was only matched by the amusement caused to my son.
The stalls evenly dotted around the square sell the usual magazines, cigarettes, touristy stuff, and sweets, but also have a fine selection of pornographic videos, DVDs, and magazines. There are two sex shops with neon lights advertising the fact, and we walked past a sex club to get to the Square from our hotel.
Yes, I think 'gritty' is a reasonable description.
Having said all that, we walked through the square several times day and night and we were never approached by anyone, and none of us ever felt in the slightest bit intimidated.
Once you get into central Athens then you enter a bustling, exciting, clean, and vibrant city centre. I suppose the only real disappointment is that it is in some ways just like any other city centre throughout Europe.
You are spoilt for choice when it comes to eating, but the area known as The Plaka is definitely aimed at the tourist market. The food is fine, but the prices are high. It is a lovely area, but I don't think you would find many locals using it. We had lunch there one day and my son's holiday was made by the fact that the Austrian international football captain, whose name escapes me, was sitting at the next table. He is playing for Panathinakos. I suppose the fact that the restaurant was being used by an international footballer says all you need to know about the prices.
We found some wonderful areas to eat. A beautiful square called Platia Agoras has some lovely restaurants and we ate outside one of them, looking up at the dramatically lit Erechthleion monument on top of the imposing Acropolis hill. It really was quite romantic.
Another area packed with locals is the area known as Psyrri, particularly the restaurants around Platia Iroon and Platia Ayion Anaryiron. Here you will find traditional Greek Tavernas, serving Greek food at a reasonable cost.
The sights, of course, are dramatic and impressive. The Parthenon, Hadrian's library, and the Temple of Zeus are all worth seeing. We took a small road train called 'The Happy Train' which took in most of the sights. It goes from the Platia Agoras, so ideal to have a latte and a Danish in one of the restaurants before you set off. The train takes in most of the sights and is 'hop on, hop off.' It only costs five Euros.
The shopping is good and reasonable. Of course, you can find all the designer names, Marks and Spencer and McDonalds. There are also many local shops selling a wide range of items. It is particularly wise to look out for the incredibly colourful handmade blown glass. I've never seen anything like it before, and if it wasn't so difficult to get the items back, my house would be full of colourful lampshades and light fittings now.
On the last day of our trip, when we were totally shopping and sight seeing fatigued, we headed out to the area known as Pireas. Here we found lovely beaches and clear blue sea. It was beautiful. We had a day on the beach, swimming in the warm sea, and eating at the sea front restaurants. Don't get too excited if you are not a fan of sea food!
One last thing about Pireas, and anywhere else for that matter, beware of the taxi drivers. The trip from central Athens to Pireas cost us eighteen Euros there, and eight Euros back. I think the first driver saw us coming!
All in all it was a fabulous trip to a city that has a little bit of everything. I think you would need to visit three or four times to see all that Athens has to offer. Will I go back? Well, probably, one day. There are other places to see first. If you've never been, I recommend giving it a try.