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The one and only time I had visited Barcelona before was on a day trip in the middle of August while holidaying in Salou it was so oppressively hot that I did not enjoy the experience so a visit in April for a few days seemed a more sensible option for a short city break and despite the weather being cloudy and wet it was still a far more enjoyable visit a very attractive city which has a lot to offer most visitors. It is important to time your visit to avoid the worst of the heat in the summer and spring is an ideal time to visit as most attractions are up and running yet the temperature is comfortable enough to cope with the amount of walking you will find yourself doing.
One of the tings I was impressed about with Barcelona was the great variety available; you have a pretty sandy two mile stretch of beach if the weather is hot enough, some great parks, lots of great shopping to spend your money on, some interesting museums and great architecture as well as plenty of things to keep the kids occupied. There are lots of restaurants and places to stay to suit most budgets and the city is supported by a great transportation system and friendly people.
Barcelona is the capital of the region of Catalonia and Catalan is the dominant language although Spanish is widely understood as well and I found particularly around the tourist areas that a mixture of my token Catalan and English was enough to get me buy. The Catalan people are very proud of their heritage which was oppressed under the Franco regime and most of the signs are in Catalan as well.
Arriving
We arrived via Barcelona airport which is made up of three terminals, our flight from Coventry landed at Terminal A which is a large terminal but it was surprisingly
quiet when we arrived at just after 22.00. The airport is located about 12km from the centre and a thirty minute taxi ride to the Barri Gotic in the centre was about 25 euro which is not bad. There is also the option of a train of coach from the airport but for three of us we would have only saved about ten euro by the time we had also picked up the metro from the drop off points so at that time of night a door to door service was the preferred option. As with all airports it is best to avoid the people touting for business in the arrivals lounge and head straight for the official taxi rank.
Geography of Barcelona
The city is located on the north eastcoast of Spain and is hemmed in by a number of mountains to the west. There are a number of distinctive areas to the city with the centre being defined by the 1km long Ramblas street which is a nice wide boulevard that runs from the harbour Port Vell and Barceloneta up to the Placa De Cataluyna and is a popular place for locals and tourists to take a leisurely walk along its pedestrianised centre looking at the street performers or sitting out on one of the cafes enjoying a drink. To the east of the Rambles is the Barri Gotic which is the old part of the town and a great place to explore. To the west is the slightly seedier Raval district which is the old red light area of the city although it has been cleaned up a fair bit in recent times helped by the opening of the Museum of Modern Art (MACBA).
To the northwest is the Dreta De L' Eixample which is another popular tourist destination as it is home to some wonderful architecture and the Sagreda Familia Gaudi unfinished gothic cathedral. Even further to the North West is Gracia which was highly recommended to us but due to the weather and lack of time we did not manage to visit the area. To the south is the hill of Montjuic which houses the castle as well as the Miro Museum and the Olympic stadium as well s some other attractions.
For those staying longer it is also possible to visit Montserrat, Girona and the beach resort of Stiges which can all be done in a day.
Getting Around
One of the great things I liked about Barcelona is that much of it can be covered by walking and most of the old town, Eixample, beach front and harbour is pretty flat and not too hard on the feet. It is also served by an excellent public transport system which is fully integrated. The metro is very clean and easy to follow with six lines it is a lot less complicated than the London Underground. Despite warnings to the contrary I found the trains to be clean and pretty much free from beggars and trains were frequent as well even late in the evening. There is also a comprehensive bus service which we did not use as well as a couple of funiculars and a last surviving tram line. All of these work off an integrated ticket so you are able to switch from one to the other within a 75 minute time period, it is probably best to buy a ten ticket pass which you can use over a number of days as this saves you money, a ten ticket pass was 6 euro 90 cents. One day and one week passes are also available as are singe journey tickets.
In addition to these the cross harbour cable car is well worth using for the spectacular crossing from the harbour up to Montjuic although be prepared to queue for the pleasure and it costs nine euro for a one way trip, twelve euro return. There are also a couple of open top tourist bus services if your time is limited or you just cannot be bothered taking the time to work things out.
Accommodation and Eating
There is a wide range of accommodation for every budget, being close to the centre is ideal as you are then in walking distance of lots of things however be aware that it can be a nosey city at night so rooms on the main tourist roads will get both traffic and crowd noise, Barcelona ha a great nightlife and a lot of restaurants do not open until 9.00 so that early night may not be very peaceful. We stayed in an excellent hotel in La Ribero which is next to the Barri Gotic and was a little quieter as we had a suite; I plan to review the hotel separately at a later date.
There is a huge range of restaurants to choose from, it is well worth sampling the Catalan cooking and there is also a large number of Tapas Bars as well. Look out at lunchtime for the set menu which is often excellent value and I did find that prices did rise quite a bit in the evening. Having said that often three of us ate in the evening really well for less than 80 euro and that includes wine which is generally cheap and of a good quality.
It is often a good idea to skip the hotel breakfast which is not normally included in the room rate in favour of one of the local cafes where the food is often better and a lot cheaper, three of us had breakfast for the equivalent price of one person in the hotel and you get to experience the charm of the Catalan people many of whom seemed to enjoy an alcoholic beverage with their first meal of the day.
Things to See
There are a whole host of things to see and do while in Barcelona and in the three days we had we did not get to see everything we wanted to.
Part of the joy is to take the time just to wander around as you will stumble across some lovely buildings, especially in the Barri Gotic, home to the impressive Cathedral and along the Ramblas. A visit to Montjuic is well worth the time travelling via the cable car and then returning on the funicular. The Miro museum on Montjuic was well worth checking out as was the castle itself. In the harbour itself the Museum of Catalunya gives a great insight into the history of the region.
It was a shame that we did not get to see any of the main parks however no visit would be complete without checking out the gothic cathedral of La Sagreda Familia which despite all of the scaffolding is still very impressive however my favourite place to visit was La Pedrera or Casa Mila which is an apartment building designed by Gaudi and has the most amazing roof which you can walk around.
Picasso is the other famous artist to be connected with Barcelona however the crowds were too great when we planned to visit his museum and we did not have the energy to queue up to get in especially as the museum supposedly houses most of his early work rather than the more famous pieces.
Certainly by the end of our stay I felt that we had only scratched the surface of what there was to see and do in Barcelona and having quite young children apart from eating out and taking a stroll at night we did not explore much of the night life on offer.
General Observations
The city does get very crowded especially at weekends and public holidays when the locals swell the foreign tourist numbers.
I did find that many of the attractions had long queues to get into and some were on the expensive side for what they had to offer.
I felt very safe in the city and although you do have to have your wits about you with regards to pick pockets there was a reasonable amount of police on show and we never encountered any problems.
There is a fair amount of traffic but nowhere near as bad as Rome and large areas of the city are given over to pedestrians. The transport system is really good and easy to navigate.
Certainly as a city it is family friendly with plenty to do for the kids including a quaint little Museum of Chocolate and mine loved to watch the street performers on the Ramblas. Parts of it are not accessible to those with prams or using wheel chairs particularly in the old areas of town and entry to the metro is often via lots of stairs although some stations have lifts both at the surface and to the platforms.
In summary Barcelona is a great city to visit and while it does not have the world famous sites like Rome or Paris it does have a lot to offer and plenty to do with some great shopping as an added bonus.
Check out the tourist office of Catalonia for more information.
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