Last year (July 2005-6) I had the great pleasure and honour of living in Basel as part of my degree. I was working for one of the many chemical companies near the centre, and living in one of the smaller suburbs, Muttenz. I've been back in England now for three months (at the time of writing), and I miss it all like crazy.

Perhaps a little more about the city itself should be mentioned first, before further proselytising about it. The city was originally in two halves; Grossbasel on the Southern banks of the Rhine, and Kleinbasel on the German North banks. Traditionally Kleinbasel is the richer, more powerful half, controlled by local guilds and full of hidden drinking houses. Grossbasel has the town hall, the cathedral and Freiestrasse, the main shopping street, and makes up the larger part of the city. Although now unified there is a traditional sort of rivalry between the two still seen in the Vogel Gryff ceremony of January, just one of the many local traditions (see photo #7).

The old city has lost none of its character, putting to shame many British cities that have sacrificed their stories in exchange for 'progress'. Wonderful back alleys lead up hills and round churches, filled with greenery and architecture that has a wonderful ability to calm your mind. I highly recommend seeking out Zum Roten Engel, a small coffee shop in Andreasplatz by the town hall, as a perfect place to relax in the most serene setting. The town hall itself is magnificent, cast in gold and red and sitting over the market square, still regularly used most days of the week. You can make your way down Freiestrasse from here, full of world-class shops, and find yourself in the true centre of the city, Barfüsserplatz; or you can cross the Rhine over the ancient 'middle bridge' to Clarastrasse in Kleinbasel, heading towards the new exhibition square of Messeplatz. Although at first Basel may seem a small city (only the third largest in Switzerland) there are layers and layers of hidden depths that I was still discovering after a year.

The city is famed for its many museums, almost 40 at last count, and boasts the world's first public art collection. A long and committed investment to art has furnished the city with delights like the Tinguely Fountains of Theaterplatz and a selection of Picasso masterpieces amongst others. Zolli, the local zoo, is a great afternoon out, and in the warm summer months the outdoor pools are a dream. The local area has much to offer as well, from the views of St. Chrischona towards the Alps to the extensive (and free) remains of the Roman settlement at Kaiseraugst. Perhaps the greatest asset of Basel it its location in Three Countries Corner, nestled between France and Germany on the tip of Switzerland. Combined with the ever-fantastic Swiss rail network, the local system and the EuroAirport, travel is both simple and broad, and a hire-car is completely superfluous.

Pictures of Basel (Switzerland)

The Basel Cathedral (Münster), sited next to the Rhine

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A city can have everything you could ever want to draw you in, but ultimately, it all rests on the atmosphere, and this is where Basel excels. There is a genuine small-town feel of friendliness and accessibility, where the locals will go out of their way to assist you - particularly if you make an effort to speak German to them, as many will speak fantastic English anyway and find it almost amusing to hear you try. Within three days of arriving my family remarked that it felt "just like home", testimony to the ease with which you'll find yourself slipping into the Basler way of things. You'll never feel intimidated walking the streets, no matter the time of your day or your state of sobriety.

The best time to visit is clearly the famous Fasnacht festival of the spring, starting at 4am Monday morning and lasting exactly 72 hours. The streets will be filled with floats and marching bands, all formed of local "cliques" with yet more traditions of their own. It is a quintessentially Basel time of year, with the dry humour of the in-jokes (don't be offended) and the colourful, surreal masks that turn it into another world. Although renowned as a reserved people, when it comes to celebration the Swiss let fly with a fury and dedication you will find surprising and charming (see photos #5 and #6).

The final highlight of the year, at least as far as major events go, is the atmospheric Christmas market at Barfüsserplatz through December. Deliberately set up in a tight maze of stalls and barbecues, there is nothing more seasonal than buying a mug of hot mulled wine (actually in a mug, rather than a polystyrene cup; it's this kind of little touch that really sets Switzerland apart) and stumbling gently through all there is to offer, local street entertainers filling the air with their lilting voices and striking chords. Basel is covered in elegant white lights, an enormous fir in the Market Square and a certain crisp to the air that you just know is magical. Weekend flights are certainly cheap enough if you can catch a sale, and with a decent bargain on a hotel this is the best way to do your Christmas shopping.

References:
- Basel Tourismus provides full listings of local events and is a priceless resource for locals and visitor alike - http://www.basel-tourismus.com/
- Fasnacht is on different dates each year, with details at http://www.fasnacht.ch/
- http://www.bpg.ch/ has details of the boat cruises and meals on the Rhine.
- More photos of Vögel Gryff with a bit of history can be seen at http://sonofsanta.net/VogelGryff