Berkeley

Berkeley probably deserves its own section but as few British holiday makers are likely to travel to California for its sake alone I’ll put it down as a day trip from San Francisco. For my money, though, Berkeley is a far better destination than it’s larger neighbour. It’s most famous for its University which dominates the centre of town. The campus is worth a look as you can climb the bell tower in the centre and get a fantastic view on a clear day. It also has the museum of Anthropology which is really interesting, even if it is rather dominated by American Indian artefacts. The campus has seen a lot of action in its time. The students here have always been famous for their activism, whether for civil rights, peace or just anything that they feel strongly about. My uncle clims that he once lived upstairs from Malcom X during his stay there! One of my best visits here was in time to watch a huge free speech rally go past. Magic.

Off campus the main reason for a trip to Berkeley is Telegraph Avenue. This is one of my favourite places in the world. This one street has had me toying with the idea of packing up and moving to California to continue my studies. Berkeley is what I hoped Haight-Ashbury would be but wasn’t. There is a really relaxed and warm feel to the place. One of the best times to visit is around Christmas when they set up stalls down the length of the street and the weird and wonderful residents take over. The clothing and products on sale make the place seem more like a carnival than a market.

The Modern art museum, just off the campus end and packed with great modern art is worth a few hours by itself. It has a lot of obscure stuff, but that doesn’t mean it’s not good, and there are some big names.

One of the best things to buy here is music. There are a multitude of cheap shops selling every type of music you could want for about half what it would cost you here. My favourites are Rasputins or Amoeba Records.

For lunch or Breakfast (if you get there early enough) don’t think about going anywhere else but the Café Med. Recommendations include their almond milk and cheap hamburgers. Look out for the snazzy décor, black toilets, and try and get the table in the window as this is where Dustin Hoffman sits in the Graduate when he catches sight of Elaine.

In the same shot in the movie you can see across the road, through the window, to a yellow striped awning. This belongs to Moe’s books and while the awning is now striped red and white they are still doing a roaring trade. If you like books Telegraph is a must. The three best book shops are Moe’s, Half Price and Shakespeare’s. The books are so cheap you’ll fill up your weight requirement for the flight home in no time.

There are a number of good clothes shops up and down the length of the avenue. But special mention has to be made of Mars Mercantile. This place is heaven if, like me, you love second hand clothes. And again, there are plenty of bargains to be had. The racks are loosely divided into decades, starting round the 40’s and moving up. Accessories and coats are upstairs. The best things I have bought here have come off the 60’s rack, some of them hand made and at impossibly low prices. They get in new box loads every day and you’ll want to go back again and again.

If you are going to San Francisco be sure to take a detour to Berkeley. Make sure to leave plenty of time for it, though, as you can spend hours just browsing on Telegraph and taking it all in. I’m lucky enough to have an aunt who teaches for the University of California and I never miss any opportunity to head down there. Go and make me jealous.