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Berlin (Germany)

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Berlin-one of the most interesting city in Europe

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4 May 17th, 2009 

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Lots of history

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No

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Sightseeing

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medgenie

medgenie

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Member since:07.05.2008

Reviews:92

This is part of my travel diary of a tour I joined from Contiki which goes to Berlin+Prague and Vienna.

Berlin/Prague/Vienna tour Day 1

We took a late morning flight to Berlin from Terminal 5. This is my first time to use this new terminal and I have to say the design is really impressive. It is spacious inside with very modern design. The journey only took us about an hour and a half and we arrived in early afternoon. The weather was nice and sunny-much better than the rainy UK. For myself, this is my second time in Berlin and I wanted to learn more about the history about this fascinating city. We met the tour guide and fellow travelers for a welcome evening and dinner. We then retired early for the night.

Berlin/Prague/Vienna tour Day 2

We began our day with a visit to the East Side Gallery. It is the largest open air gallery in the world. It stretches from Ostbahnhof station to the Oberbaumbrücke. 118 artists from 21 countries have painted several pictures on a 1,316 meter long section of the former Berlin Wall, which is now a listed landmark. The most famous pictures are "Brotherly Kiss" by Dimitri Vrubel, "Fatherland" by Gunther Schaefer and "Berlin ? New York" by Gerhard Lahr.

After that, we made a stop outside the Reichstag. It is the home of the German parliament and has been the sight of many important historical events such as rallies by Hitler, concert by Pink Floyd and the declaration of a reunified Germany. The inscription on the building "Dem Deutschen Volke" means “to the German people”. Part of the Reichstag was destroyed in a fire on 27 February 1933: the exact cause has never been identified, but the fire was used by the Nazis to justify their persecution of political opponents.

After the war, the devastated building was rebuilt in a simplified form from 1961–71 to plans by Paul Baumgarten, but it was not used for parliamentary functions. The dome, which had been blown up in 1945, was not rebuilt. After reunification, the German Federal Government decided to use the building as a parliament once again. From 1994–99 the Reichstag was reconstructed and extended by the Architect Sir Norman Forster, taking into consideration both the immense historical implications and its function as a modern working parliament, and adding an accessible dome. The glass dome divert natural sunlight into the building with an underlying meaning that it can also “shed light on the workings of democracy”

We then made a stop for photo at the Soviet Union Memorial before heading to the Olympic Stadium. The Olympic Stadium was constructed from 1935–36 to plans by the architect Werner March as the central building of the Reich sports field for the 1936 Olympic Games-the Olympic Game held in Germany when Hitler was head of state. Apparently, as part of the propaganda, Hitler made a lot of effort at that time to clean up the whole city, remove all thieves and evil doers, and bringing in prostitutes from the whole country into the capital to make sure the whole world “could have a nice time”.

In 2006 the stadium hosted the final match of FIFA World Cup Germany 2006™ between France and Italy.

When thinking about the dark and horrific past of Germany, the first thing that comes to my mind is definitely the Concentration Camps-remember Schindler’s list? Our next stop was the Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp near the north of Berlin.

Construction of the camp took place during the summer months of 1936, at the same time that the Olympic Games were being staged in Berlin. Prisoners were brought here to do the construction work. The new camp was built further away from the town and the main roads: too many people could see what was happening at the former site. Sachsenhausen was used as a model for other concentration camps, and was also a training centre for the guards. The camp was for male prisoners (a separate camp was used for women).
Between 1936 and 1945 over 200,000 prisoners were kept at Sachsenhausen. At first these were mainly political prisoners or trade unionists. Later they were joined by groups which the Nazis decided were "inferior", including Jews, gypsies, homosexuals and religious leaders from Germany and the countries which had been occupied. Prisoners were marked with a triangle which identified why they were there, for example: black triangles for political dissidents, red triangles for communists, double yellow triangles (making a star) for Jews, pink triangles for homosexuals. Tens of thousands of prisoners died. Many died from hunger or disease. Many others were worked to death, or were murdered by the SS. Among the people who were brought to Sachsenhausen were those who were suspected of taking part in the attempt to assassinate Hitler.

In 1945 the war was going badly for the Nazis - Soviet soldiers were approaching Berlin. At the end of April that year the SS ordered the camp to be evacuated. Thousands of prisoners were sent on "death marches" to the Baltic Sea to the north. Many were put onto ships which were then sunk, drowning all of those on board. The intention was to kill all of the witnesses who knew what had happened in the camps. However, some sick prisoners (and some doctors) were still at the camp when it was liberated. Many of those who were liberated died soon afterwards, sometimes because their bodies could not adjust quickly to being fed properly.

Instead of destroying the camp or preserving it as a memorial, the Soviets decided to use Sachsenhausen as their own concentration camp. It was put under the control of the NKVD (the Soviet secret service). Former Nazi officials were imprisoned here, together with political prisoners. About 60,000 Germans were imprisoned here between 1945 and 1950, of whom over 12,000 died from hunger and disease. The camp was finally closed in March 1950, after which it was used by the East German army and police. In 1961 the site was turned into a National Memorial: at that time it was used by the communist regime.

Since the fall of the Berlin Wall and the re-unification of Germany, Sachsenhausen has been administered by a public trust called the Brandenburg Memorials Foundation.

We walked through the complex and went into the cells where some of Hitler’s special prisoners were kept. It was a daunting experience and as I visited the different areas of the camp, I could more or less imagine the suffering the prisoners endured and the horrible events that had happened in there.

We then got back to the city centre and explored the area around the Alexnaderplatz. A nice dinner with the famous “pork knuckle” marked the end of the second day.

Berlin/Prague/Vienna tour Day 3
We began this day with a guided historical tour of the city. We started in the Marx-Engels-Forum. It is a public park and is named for Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels, authors of The Communist Manifesto of 1848 and regarded as the founders of modern socialism. The park was created by the authorities of the former German Democratic Republic (GDR) in 1986.
It consists of a rectangular wooded park with a large, circular paved area in the centre. In the middle of this stands a sculpture by Engelhardt, consisting of larger-than-life bronze figures of Marx (sitting) and Engels (standing). Behind the statues is a relief wall showing scenes from the history of the German socialist movement.

From the square, looking up you can see the East German TV tower. It was built according to the plans of a team of architects from 1965–69, with the assistance of a group of experts from Sweden. The Fernsehturm, member of the World Federation of Great Towers, consists of a 250m-high reinforced concrete shaft topped by a stainless steel sphere, which is divided into seven stories. One of them is home to the Telecafé, which offers a breath-taking view of the city. The café, which rotates on its own axis, takes 30 minutes to go round. Although it was built by the East German regime during the Cold War, if you view it from a distance, you can see a reflection of the cross-a bit ironic as the communists have no interest in religion.

We then walked past the Berliner Dom and the Frederick the Great Statue and reached the Museum Island. It is home to a clutch of great State-run museums and sights. We came to Bebelplatz, one of the most noteworthy tourist attraction. The square dates to about 1740, but it was named in 1947 after the joint founder of the German Social Democratic Party (SPD), August Bebel. At first, it was to be the centre of the Forum Fridericianum planned by Knobelsdorff. This could not however be fully realized – only the opera house was constructed from 1741–43, which lead to the grounds becoming known as Opernplatz. Behind the Opera House , St. Hedwig's Cathedral can be found (built 1747–1773), while the western side is the site of the Königliche Bibliothek (Royal Library, 1775–80), known colloquially as the "Kommode" ("chest of drawers"); today, this building belongs to the Humboldt University and is attached to the Alte Palais (Old Palace)

On May 10, 1933, the square was the focal point for the "burning of the books" staged by the Nazis: the works of Heinrich and Thomas Mann, Erich Kästner, Stefan Zweig, Heinrich Heine, Karl Marx, Alfred Kerr, Kurt Tucholsky and countless other writers were thrown into the flames. Since 1995, this event has been commemorated by the monument designed by Micha Ullmann, which consists of an underground library with empty shelves and which can be seen through a transparent plastic window set into the ground. We then walked past the Humboldt University of Berlin where Albert Einstein attended before reaching the Unter den Linden, the equivalent of Champ-Elysees in Paris.

We then got into one of the underground stations nearby. The underground played a very important role during the time of the cold war. Before the Berlin Wall was put up across the country, people living in the East Berlin could ‘escape’ by getting onto the underground as the network consists of services that loops between the west side and the east side of the city. After the Berlin Wall was put up, the Eastern regime closed all the underground stations to prevent any more escapes. Many of the tube lines were still running, as the west side paid the east a fee for that, but stations on the east side were guarded by soldiers from the east. Interestingly, many West Berliners at that time could be on a train that went past these stations before reaching their destinations. The trains did not stop at these stations but the passengers could well see the abandoned stations or the guards. We then emerged out the station and continued our walk along the Unter den Linden.

At the end of the boulevard, you can find the embassy of various countries and the famous Hotel Adlon. It is the most expensive hotel in Berlin because the Brandenburg Gate is right next to it. Also, it is the same hotel where Michael Jackson dangled his baby son, Prince Michael Jackson II, from a balcony-haha!!

We then walked past the Brandenburg gate, the symbol of the unification of Germany, before reaching the Holocaust Memorial.

The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe/Holocaust Memorial is the central place for remembrance and a place of warning. The decision to build this Memorial was taken by the German parliament on June, 25 1999, when it passed a resolution to realize a design by Peter Eisenman, the internationally renowned New York architect. Eisenmans design envisages a Field of Stelae, 2,711 concrete blocks of different heights, structured in a grid pattern and covering nearly 19,000 m2 of gently sloping ground. Since it is entirely open to all sides, the Memorial can be entered anywhere but as you move through it, the blocks seem to form different wave-like patterns. Peter Eisenman re-worked this extraordinary design a number of times, creating a radical departure from the standard notion of a static memorial. The memorial has a complementary underground Information Centre, similarly designed by Eisenman in an equally impressive style, providing around 800 sq. meters of exhibition space giving background information on the victims and detailing other historical memorial sites.

Nowhere inside the memorial, or around it, does it say what it commemorates. It seems that the creater wants you to come up with your own feeling or conclusion. I think it also depends on the weather or mood when you visit the place. If you go on a sunny day, it could play a role for allowing you to take a rest. For families, this could be the site for hide-and-seek between daddy and son. However, if you go on a cloudy or rainy day, you could have a different feeling.
After a short walk from the memorial, we reached the site of the underground shelter(bunker) where Hitler, the main character in the dark history of the Second World War, spent the last of his days. Before this trip, I used to think that he was German born but actually, he was Austrian by birth. Another interesting thing is that initially he wanted to be an artist but was rejected twice by the Art Academy in Vienna. One of his self portrait was sold for a reasonably high price recently in the UK, far more than what the auctioner expected!!

I strongly believe the childhood of a person shapes what an individual will become in the future. And this is indeed the case for Hitler. He had a troubled childhood as his father was violent but he was close to his mother. According to legend, he was so close to her that he carried a photo of her whereever he went to and put the photo on his bedside table.

Being rejected by the Arts school, Hitler then joined the military and moved on to become a secret agent for the government. He then became a member of the Nazi party and finally came to power and became the chancellor. Legends says that he knew how to give good speech, how to charm people, kind of like a mind reader. Interestingly, a man with a twisted mind like his, managed to get involved with 7 women. 6 of them attempted suicide-well you can probably work out why. And one of the women he fell in love with was actually his niece- inbreeding seems to be a common practice in Austria? (many of you may have heard of the horrific tale of Josef Fritzl).

After that, we walked past the former Propaganda Ministry of Goebbels and reached the final spot for our walk-Checkpoint Charlie-the third checkpoint.

From 1961 to 1990, Checkpoint Charlie was the only border crossing point for the Allies, foreigners, employees of the Permanent Representation and officials of the GDR. Today, the checkpoint is commemorated by a border sign and a soldier's post. The museum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie tells the history of the Wall.

Numerous legends and stories are told about Checkpoint Charlie. The former border crossing point between East and West Berlin was the place where Soviet and American tanks stood face to face, after the construction of the Berlin Wall. Let me give you a few stories.

On 17 August 1962, a teenage East German, Peter Fechter, was wounded in the back, shot by East German guards while trying to escape from East Berlin. His body lay tangled in a barbed wire fence, slowly bleeding to death, in full view of the world’s media. American soldiers could not rescue him because he was a few yards inside the Soviet sector. East German border guards were reluctant to approach him for fear of provoking Western soldiers, one of whom had shot an East German border guard just days earlier. According to legend, some of the west Berliners threw bandages into the no-man zone in the hope that would help him. Over an hour later Mr. Fechter’s body was removed by the East German guards.

The Checkpoint Charlie was initially blocked only by a gate. A West Berliner who studied in the university in the East, managed to pass through the barrier in a Swinger car(the one that Austin Powers uses) carrying his fiancee and his mother in law from the east. This was then reported in the newspaper in the West side and was repeated again 2 weeks later. After that, the authority lowered the barrier and added extra obstacles at the checkpoint.

We then spent the afternoon to chill out and get some souvenirs. Apart from the usual ones such as magnets, you can also get souvenirs of the Ampelmann.

The Ampelmann is the symbolic person shown on traffic lights at pedestrian crossings in the former German Democratic Republic (GDR - East Germany). Prior to the German reunification in 1990, the two German states had different forms for the Ampelmännchen, with a generic human figure in West Germany, and a generally male figure wearing a hat in the east. After the unification, there was plans to replace the “eastern design” with the generic figure of the west. However, this resulted in a national call to rescue the design as it has obtained cult status. And finally a decision was made. Any old or worn out traffic lights will now be replaced with ones with the eastern design. Therefore, you will no longer be able to tell whether you are in the east or west side of the city by looking at the traffic lights.
Apart from getting souvenirs, trying out the local food is also important when visiting a country. Sausages are definitely must-have and they do so many varieties such as the grill sausage, the curry sausage. You can also try the jam doughnut. It was made famous by John F Kennedy in his speech when he was visiting West Berlin. Kennedy said “Two thousand years ago the proudest boast was civis Romanus sum [I am a Roman citizen]. Today, in the world of freedom, the proudest boast is 'Ich bin ein Berliner'… All free men, wherever they may live, are citizens of Berlin, and, therefore, as a free man, I take pride in the words 'Ich bin ein Berliner!'
Well Kennedy made a pretty embarrassing grammatical error by saying "Ich bin ein Berliner," referring to himself not as a citizen of Berlin, but as a jam doughnut!!! What he should have said was "Ich bin Berliner" to mean "I am a person from Berlin.
In early evening we joined our tour group for a nice traditional dinner at the Joe’s Beer Hall opposite the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church.
 

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