Earlier this year, we were searching for somewhere new to go for our annual 2 week holiday. In previous years we have mostly stayed in Dorset (UK) and France, and I have travelled a lot elsewhere in Europe. My son goes to football practice every Saturday and one of the other Dads suggested Switzerland. Immediately I could think of many reasons not to go there - its too upmarket, too expensive and surely its not going to be as hot as say the Mediterranean or the Costas?
However I got a guide book and it seemed Switzerland had got a lot to offer - the Alps obviously, cycling and walking countryside, loads of Lakes (where the weather looked promising), culture, shops, historic cities and loads of scenic railway routes which would appeal to my son.
We booked a self-catering chalet about 10 miles from Bern, and decided to take the car. The journey from Scotland via the Channel Tunnel took two days which tried our patience a bit, however it turned out to be worth it.
We made day trips to Bern on several occasions. First some general orientation. The old part of the city is on a large rock promintory surrounded on 3 sides by the River Aare. This has prevented the old part of the city sprawling.
The city centre is easily walkable from the main SBB railway station. If you like you can hire a bike or scooter free from a cabin outside the station (there is another rental point in the town). You have to pay a deposit and leave ID (eg a Passport) but this is all refunded. You can if you want use the extensive tram or trolleybus system. The no 12 trolleybus takes in the main shopping street, the bear pit (which is a tourist hub) and winds up at the Paul Klee Art Museum. If you buy a rail ticket to Bern, as we did, it is valid for 2 hours on the Bern trams / trolleybuses from when you first stamp it before boarding your train.
There are several km of arcades, ie covered walkways, in three parallel shopping streets. This reminded me of Italy but there is a strong French influence. Many of the shops are boutiques and we bought several gifts, prices were more reasonable than I expected. International chains are well represented. Jewellery and Watches were available for all budgets.
There are several tourist hotspots which you can read about in any guide book so I wont go into detail but there is an old city clock tower and cathedral which provide kodak moments. I just loved the ambiance. There atmosphere is relaxed. My son's favourites were the water fountains everywhere where we topped up our bottled water (hopefully it was drinkable, we didnt suffer any concequences). There is also a square in front of the Parliament Building where there are water fountains set into the pavement which shoot computer-controlled blasts of water, my son spent many hours dodging these along with lots of other local kids.
There are several open air markets each week, the fruit is tempting and there are also keenly priced supermakets hidden away in the arcades such as COOP and MIGROS. We found water and juice was a fraction of the price of that in vending machines and small shops. The price of a bottle of coke in a small outlet was CHF3,50 (about £1.75).
There are loads of restaurants, we eat modestly on Pizzas etc and generally the meal came to about £30 for 3 people, drinks included. At the bear pit there is a tourist office and restaurant (Alt Tram Depot) which serves local (Swiss) specialities which was reasonably priced and some outside tables have fantastic views. However it can be very popular at lunchtime and evenings.
You can buy 'bear food' and throw it to the bears, who seemed to be in good condition and gobbled it up. I would not want to chance falling into the pit though.
We also went to Gurten Park which is a big hill with a few family attractions such as a small ride-on kids railway, offering great views, reached by a cable railway. Annually there is a music festival (in fact whilst when we were there) and is best avoided whilst the festival is on, unless of course, you have a ticket.
We paid a modest amount for a changing booth at one of the many outdoor swimming pools in the city, again a massive hit with our son.
I went to the Paul Klee Art Museum, entrance was about £5 and if you are into Paul Klee its the premier museum hosting his works. There is also another well-stocked Art Museum and many other museums if its a rainy day.
Overall, Bern was great for us as a family, it indulged my partner's shopping urges, it was beautiful and relaxed. It is said to be considered to be on a par with Florence and I can see why. It would be good as a city break but flights into Bern airport are generally of the commuter/full fare variety, so Basle-Mullhouse would be another option, and then taking the train (about an hour away). Going by car you will probably be unable to avoid paying the Swiss Annual Motorway tax (about £18).
You will of course need to take Swiss Francs, some places may accept Euros. The language spoken is Bernese-Swiss-German, which is written in high German but the local dialect is strong. Attempts to use high German is appreciated and will be understood. In some rural areas, grasp of English is less, or none at all.
The main advantage of Bern to me was that there is no in-your-face tourism, we mixed happily with local people. I can greatly recommend the city.
