Berneray, Western Isles, Scotland

I first discovered Berneray a few years ago during a 2-day trip to North Uist. We hadn't planned to visit, but the newly built causeway linking Berneray to North Uist persuaded us to explore. I really had no idea what to expect and had never even heard of Bearneray. I discovered the most stunning scenery imaginable and a way of life I thought had long since disappeared. But before I share the delights of the place with you here are some practicalities-
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Getting to a remote island off the western coast of Scotland is, as you would expect, a bit of a trek. Berneray lies in the sound of Harris between North Uist and Harris. With an area of just 10.1 square kilometres you would hardly notice it looking on a map. Berneray is the only inhabited island in the sound of Harris.

There are several ways to get to Berneray. We have always taken a ferry from Skye and ... more

I first discovered Berneray a few years ago during a 2-day trip to North Uist. We hadn't planned to visit, but the newly built causeway linking Berneray to North Uist persuaded us to explore. I really had no idea what to expect and had never even heard of Bearneray. I discovered the most stunning scenery imaginable and a way of life I thought had long since disappeared. But before I share the delights of the place with you here are some practicalities-

Getting there and around
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Getting to a remote island off the western coast of Scotland is, as you would expect, a bit of a trek. Berneray lies in the sound of Harris between North Uist and Harris. With an area of just 10.1 square kilometres you would hardly notice it looking on a map. Berneray is the only inhabited island in the sound of Harris.

There are several ways to get to Berneray. We have always taken a ferry from Skye and then driven over the causeway. The only ferry is operated by Caledonian McBrayne (Calmac). Ferries leave from Uig on the Isle of Skye to Lochmaddy, North Uist. From here it is 10 miles to Bearneray.
The ferry also runs from the Isle of Harris to Berneray. The fare is not cheap at £64 for a car £13.95 per adult, children from 5-15 pay half fare. There are concessions for those who have a disability. Prices go up in the summer. There are 1-2 sailing a day and the crossing takes just under 2 hours.

I have always enjoyed the ferry crossing. There is a good soft play area for children and a restaurant serving both snacks and full meals. The staff have always been really friendly and helpful. The crossing can often be rough in this part of the world, you have been warned! If you would like more information call Calmac on 01876-500337.

If you don't fancy the ferry crossing then it is possible to fly from Glasgow to either Barra or Benbecula . There are 1-2 flights daily operated by British airways. The flight to either location takes about an hour and will set you back about £130.It is possible to hire a car at either location. Bearneray is then a short drive to the north.

If you would like to visit without a car then it is possible by bus from Glasgow to Uig. There are busses to Bearneray from Lochmady. Alternatively you could go by train from either Fort William or Mallaig and then by bus to Uig. If you do decide to use public transport then remember there are no busses on the islands on Sundays.

Berneray is only 2 miles long and 3 miles wide so it is possible to manage well without using a car. Berneray is the idea place to use bikes to get around. Bike hire is available from Morrison's cycle hire (01876-580211) in Lochmaddy, North Uist. There are only 2 single-track roads on the island. One leads from the causeway up the east coast of the island. The other goes through the Borve Township.

What's the island like?
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We have always arrived on Berneray by crossing the causeway from North Uist. Built in 1999, the causeway has made the island a lot more accessible. Berneray has a very distinctive landscape with traditional crofts and cottages scattered around the island.
Most of the 123 inhabitants live on the east coast of the island. The majority of the population are either employed in farming or fishing. Berneray is a low-lying island and where ever you are on the island the sea is always in view.

The north and west coast has the most beautiful, 3-mile long, white sand beach that I have ever seen. Reached by driving along a rough track through farmland the beach is backed by machair that grows along the sand dunes. The machair flowers during the summer making the whole place a mass of colour. The sand dunes backing the beach give it a very remote feel. If you visit remember that the dunes are not only protected but also dangerous, so don't let children climb on them! We have spent hours on the beach and have only ever seen 1 other person. The mountains on Harris are visible from the beach adding to its stunning setting. There is a small car parking area complete with a picnic bench too. This really is the perfect place to bring children.

What is there to do?
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I have already described the beach but Berneray has more to offer. We love the peace and isolated feel of Berneray and that is probably the reason most people visit.

If you fancy getting even closer to the sea then it is possible to take a boat trip around the island. Trips leave from the harbour on the east coast. If you are interested then call 01876-540289 for more information. It is also possible to arrange longer trips from Berneray to visit the uninhabited island of St Kilda.

Berneray has its own information centre staffed by volunteers. It is open from June until September and situated near to the causeway.

If you are interested in wildlife then this island has a lot to offer. Otters can often be spotted here and we once watched a family of otters playing on the west beach, a truly magical experience. There are also numerous seals, sea birds and other rarer birds to see. Greyleg geese are a common sight here.

If you like walking then you will enjoy the circular walk of the island. It will take you about 4 hours, remember to take warm clothing and waterproofs as the weather can change quickly.

Berneray has several historical sights worth looking at. There is evidence to show it has been inhabited since Viking times. There is a stone circle just past the seal viewing car park thought to have been the centre of sun worship. Another large standing stone can be seen above the only shop. At 8 feet high it was thought to have be an ancient meeting place.

From Berneray it is easy to travel across the causeway to North Uist and down to South Uist if you want a change of scenery.

Accommodation and eating.
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For such a small island there are several options if you would like to stay .At the cheapest end is the beautifully situated thatched hostel. Run by the Gatliff trust the hostel right on the beach on the east coast. Prices are £5.50 for a junior and £8.00 for an adult.

There are several self-catering properties too. Visit the excellent community web site at www.isleof berneray.com/buissess/ for more information. The web site also lists bed and breakfast options.

We stayed at Burnside croft near to the west beach.(01876-540235) I would highly recommend it! It costs about £28 per night with a reduction for children. This is the croft where prince Charles stayed on his many visits to the island.

There are no restaurants on Bernray but there is a small tearooms next to the shop. The lobster pot tearooms serves coked breakfasts, toasties and other light snacks. There is a well-stocked shop next to the tearooms.

If you are self catering then it is worth knowing that there is a larger co-op in Sollas on North Uist. There is no petrol available on Bernray so fill up on Uist!

Bernray is a wonderful island and the people have always been very welcoming and friendly to us. Gaelic is widely spoken as a first language on Bernray and all signs are written in Gaelic too. I really recommend Bernray to and hope this review will be useful should you decide to visit!

 

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