Forget the Eiffel Tower, Louvre, Notre Dame, THIS is REAL Paris!
Situated down a slightly forbidding alleyway at the RUE DU FAUBOURG, just off BOULEVARD MONTMARTRE at the north east of Paris City Centre this is an absolute gem of an establishment, which up to now the Parisians have managed to keep very much for themselves!
They opened in 1898, and from what I could see, very little has changed - the decor is simple - a tall long narrow hall with a balcony down one side, two long rows of tables - on the tables are laid sheets of white newsprint paper (the original disposable tablecloth) Above the tables is the longest brass luggage rack I've ever seen!
Down the wall are a series of mirrors running from head height to ceiling, and must be about five metres high - and in between are strange brown wooden constructions comprising of numerous drawers, which were originally supplied so customers could keep their own napkin and cutlery en-suite so as to say!
The establishment caters exclusively for the local population, and whilst tourists are welcome, there certainly aren't any concessions granted! The menu - which changes daily, is strictly in French, and don't bother asking for an English translation!
Clients span all age groups and backgrounds, Youngsters, couples, families, and the elderly, all looking for excellent food with ruthlessly efficient but unobtrusive staff.
The waiters are exactly what you would expect - white shirts, waistcoats, long white aprons, and an attitude of informal indifference - which many tourists mistake for masked rudeness - I especially hate the imported insincere 'have a nice day' sort of attitude we are subjected to on a regular basis in the UK - so I take this as a complement!
The sheer range of food on offer is astonishing - the menu - which is changed every day and includes many seasonal specialities - a choice of 25 starters, 5 fish dishes, 18 main dishes, nine vegetable options, 8 cheeses, a dozen sweets, and nine ice creams is not uncommon - the menu is published on the Internet, so take the chance to check this out if you can!
Cooking style is unmistakably French, but singularly unfussy, and taking their food seriously, is prepared to absolute perfection. No tomato Ketchup and brown sauce here!
Vegetarians (of which I count myself one) are not specifically catered for, however when I announced my preference (in French of course) the waitress suggested they would be happy to provide me with a selection of vegetables, although the look on her face clearly betrayed the fact she thought I was completely mad!
I wasn't in the least bit disappointed - indeed my meat eating accompanists looked at my plate piled high with exquisitely prepared veg with some envy.
Prices, for the centre of Paris, are extremely reasonable, starters costing around two or three Euros, main dishes mostly under ten, a party of four can enjoy a couple of courses with wine or coffee for about ten quid each.
But it's got nothing to do with the money.
Nobody but the French could come up with such a brilliant idea - top quality food, simply prepared, and in an environment so lacking in pretention.
Why this can't be exported to the rest of the world is beyond me.
I believe the restaurant can get busy at weekends and evenings, where booking is advisable, but we turned up late one weekday lunchtime and were escorted immediately to a table.
As their web site suggests (in rather broken English) "But at Chartier, where discretion is a master word, a certain spirit remains, a behaviour that turns any client into a converted. Engagement and respect of the customers are not vain words. To whom who can observe, the restaurant is a proof itself. No silk, no cristal, no silverware, but the soul and the authenticity of a unique and timeless place."
And that just about sums it up.
As a final act of pure theatre, you don't get presented with a bill printed at the till, but instead the waiter scribbles down your order on the paper tablecloth and adds it up in front of you - nice touch.
The restaurant is a little way off the tourist trail, but for me it was the highlight of my visit to Paris.
Would I recommend you tried it to - of course, but don't tell *too* many people, I don't want the atmosphere being ruined!
After visiting, you'll never quite look at another restaurant in the same way ever again - seriously!
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Standard of Menu
Family Friendly
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