Brides les Bains

...Well, look no further than Brides les Bains.

Pronounced "bhreed-la-baahn", this small village in the Savoy region of France is the perfect place to unwind. In winter, it's close to Meribel and the vast area of snow known as the "Trois Vallees". Meribel itself is set up for English tourists and therefore lacks the French charm that Brides offers, which is only a gondola (AKA bubble, telecabine, chairlift thingy)-ride ...
...experience (or your skiing ability!). Brides is also significantly cheaper than Meribel when it comes to accommodation.

In summer, Brides is a popular French health resort without the expensive price tag. The town has its own natural thermal spa within the river that flows from the Alps and so the association between the warm mineral water and health was promoted by the town quite some time ago. Since then, the natural spa has been ... more

Have you ever felt the need to escape to a place where you can feel truly at peace with the world? A place that is relaxing, yet not spoilt by the tourist trade? A place far enough removed from your every-day life, but not far away physically? Well, look no further than Brides les Bains.

Pronounced "bhreed-la-baahn", this small village in the Savoy region of France is the perfect place to unwind. In winter, it's close to Meribel and the vast area of snow known as the "Trois Vallees". Meribel itself is set up for English tourists and therefore lacks the French charm that Brides offers, which is only a gondola (AKA bubble, telecabine, chairlift thingy)-ride away. At 600 metres above sea level, Brides has also been known to get snow during winter. Although there is a skiing/boarding trail from Meirbel, it's rarely used and is more likely to damage your equipment rather than enhance your French experience (or your skiing ability!). Brides is also significantly cheaper than Meribel when it comes to accommodation.

In summer, Brides is a popular French health resort without the expensive price tag. The town has its own natural thermal spa within the river that flows from the Alps and so the association between the warm mineral water and health was promoted by the town quite some time ago. Since then, the natural spa has been enclosed and locked away. So even though the town itself isn't exclusive, entrance to the spa most definitely is. To receive "treatment", you must have a doctor's certificate, then wait your turn in the large and busy waiting area.

If, like me, you are not unhealthy and/or rich enough to visit the spa itself, you can line up outside for a free cup of the water. During winter, there are no lines at all and the water tastes quite nice. Other freebies offered in Brides include the Welcome drinks every monday during winter, where free mulled wine is provided and leaflets are handed out, and the odd DJ session during early spring down near the beautiful gardens surrounding the river. The magnificent views are also free of course. A walk up the road on the other side of the valley provides excellent views of the town and even Meribel. A round trip will take you about an hour if you walk at a leisurely pace. The gondola also provides spectacular views and is used in summer as well as winter. The attendants change the ski racks for mountain bike racks so that you can take your bike up with you and ride around Meribel. After a long day's cycling, you can take the gondola back down, or cycle back down if you still have the energy.

The nightlife in the town can be disastrous: there are some pubs, a dodgy, expensive nightclub - and even a casino - but you will probably need some French language skills if you want to order drinks and talk to anyone. But then, you don't travel to Brides for the nightlife. There are two English-owned places I know of: the betting agency which also does great fry-ups; and the Hotel Versaeu which has its own bar and the occasional live band.

The town boasts three pizzerias (conveniently spaced evenly throughout town) and quite a few nice restaurants. Most of them prepare fondue and the lovely French raclette (much better than fondue - maybe I'll write an op about raclette soon) and vegetarians will never feel left out. The town has the usual outlets such as a photo processing shop, ski shops, chemist, banks, convenience store, betting outlet, lovely delicatessans, hairdressers and clothes shops. Opening hours are at the discretion of the owners. But then, if you want the full French experience, then this includes bizarre opening hours. In summer time, healthy low-fat meals are all the rage but the bakeries still provide some delicious high-fat alternatives.

Brides is also proud of its involvement with the Albertville winter Olympics. As an official Olympic town, it celebrated its 10th anniversary last year with a street party, fireworks and live music outdoors. Memories of the Olympics can be seen around town in the form of faded signs and re-named places.

You can get to Brides all sorts of ways. The closest main airports are Geneva (Switzerland), Turin (Italy) and Grenoble (France). Genoa is closer still but it may be difficult to get a direct flight. From the airport, you can catch buses or the train to Moutiers, which is about ten minutes away by car. There is a bus service from Moutiers. Expect the total travel time from the airport to be anywhere from one hour to five, depending on the number of connections you need to make and how long you have to wait between connections.

Alternatively, you can take the Eurostar Snow train in winter which is an overnight sleeping train that leaves from Victoria train station in London. It's expensive and the service is limited but you do get a smooth ride and some nice treats (airline-type bag complete with blanket). Some coach companies also go directly to Brides in winter (Harris Holidays, who offer short ski breaks from 2-7 days or longer if required, and Snowcoach who provide weekly coaches and accommodation). The bus journey takes approximately 14 hours, overnight, so that you arrive in the morning at around 9am. In summer, your options are more limited.

The town closes for a few months between summer and winter. It opens fully a few days before Christmas and doesn't close again until mid-May when temperatures may have already reached 25 degrees ouside. It re-opens as a health resort in June, then closes again in October.

I cannot begin to describe the relaxed atmosphere that engulfs this town. I happily watched old men play boules and listened to the DJ talk in French to the three couples who were ballroom dancing to pop music. The town is not self-conscious and that rubs off on everyone who visits. The weather is generally fine and dry. Even during the cold months of winter, the sun is rarely hidden unless it's sinking behind the distant mountains. If you want a place to unwind, try Brides because this newly unhidden treasure has not yet been plundered. Just make sure you leave it that way please! 

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