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The oldest cafe in the Paris of South America

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4 Oct 2nd, 2005 

11 Ciao members have rated this review on average: helpful

Advantages:
Good food, lots of history, lovely setting, easy access

Disadvantages:
Very touristy .  Food quality a bit inconsistent for the price

Recommendable Yes:

Detailed rating:

Prices

Is it worth visiting?

Transport links

Family Friendly

mimi_solei

mimi_solei

About me:

Based in London, I love travelling and trying out new things. My areas of expertise include, shoes,...

Member since:30.09.2005

Reviews:14

This has to be one of the must-go places in Buenos Aires. I went to it on my last day and I have to say that it did not disappoint. There are lots of things that make this an easy, ideal and interesting restaurant/cafe to visit.

GETTING THERE: Located on Avenida de Mayo 825 between the streets of Tacuari and Piedras. This beautiful cafe is easily accessible from the subte (underground) stations of both 'Plaza Mayo' and 'Av. de 9 Julio'. It's location make it perfect as a lunch stop following sight seeing in La Boca, San Telmo or around Plaza Mayo. If you are further afield, take the subte or any of the numerous buses thatl pass it- just ask locals,as listing all of them would take all day.

HISTORY: Established in 1858, Cafe Tortoni is the oldest cafe in Buenos Aires. There are many reasons to visit and one of them is the fact that many famous bohemians used it as their regular haunt. This includes Carlos Gardel, Alfonsina Storni, Jorge Luis Borges and Benito Quinquela Martín. Yet there are many more reasons than just that

MY IMPRESSION: Tortoni is beautiful. As you entre, old fashioned waiters rush around fulfilling orders. What strikes you is how much of it has remained in it's original stile. With high ceilings supported by mahogany coloured beams the lighting enhances the space and gives it a certain warmth. The wood panel walls and marbel tables all add to the beauty of the place. DOWNER is that there are sooo many tourists. It cannot be called a locals' restaurant because the majority of the diners are tourists. PROS: The waiters are very friendly and familiar with the broken spanish of tourist. Not only are they helpful in recommending what is good (I shall get on to the shortly) but they are also keen to assist (such as taking photos which is rare in a restaurant).

THE FOOD:I had the recommended Lomo con quesa which is a sirloin steak in bread (you get a choice of pitta, baquette and toast). The meat was beautiful but the cheese was disappointing as it was processed cheese(think mcdonalds). After removing it from my steak sandwich, it was fine. The mixed salad (at 8 Pesos or £1.60 is not cheap by argentinian standards) was disappointingly small and average (nothing wrong but nothing spectacular). The dessert was amazing. Dulce de Leche (Caramel like speciality) with vanilla ice cream and oreo cookies.

ADDITIONAL PLUSES: Tortoni offers tango shows. These are on a regular basis but the precise schedule can be obtained from their website. If you don't have the money to spare for a meal, go for a coffee and soak up the ambience.

FINAL THOUGHT: Despite the small downers, I did really enjoy my visit to Tortoni. Out of it and the other confiterias I've visited in Buenos Aires it is definitely worth going!  

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Comments about this review »

Writing321 03.10.2005 21:05

Liked your review and the subject... would like to go there Lois

droniee 02.10.2005 09:19

Well written review.

S.Bate 02.10.2005 08:39

Interesting to read of our experience.

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