I had always wanted to see the famous sights of Egypt but I could never imagine myself actually booking a holiday there, I guess I was always a little anxious of the place and had heard far too many scary stories.
However, in June last year (2005) my friend and me booked to go to Cyprus for a week. Whilst in Cyprus our Olympic rep advised us of the usual resort trips i.e. bar crawls, boat trips the usual stuff and there was also a day trip to Egypt. This seemed ideal - an early morning flight from Paphos to Cairo highlights including visits to the Pyramids, Sphinx, Lunch in a 5 starhotel, a visit to the famous museum with Tutankhamen's treasures, ending the day with a 2 hour cruise down the Nile, then a return flight to Paphos that same evening. The cost of the trip was around £250 including return flights and meals.
The Trip
The flight from Paphos to Cairo took about an hour. My first reaction to arriving at Cairo airport was that I wanted to get back on the plane. Its was a very hard-hitting culture shock, not seeing any other westerners about, I was out of my comfort zone and a little bit scared. Our plane was exclusively full of tourists on the Cairo trip. We were all split into groups upon arrival at Cairo Airport and had to wear coloured stickers depending on the coach group we had been allocated to. Not wanting to be exposed to Cairo we more or less ran to our coach, which for almost for the full day was to become our "safety bubble" There were around 30 people on our coach altogether. Upon boarding the ladies were given a rose by our Egyptian tour guide (mine however was just a stalk with the head missing - which my friend found absolutely hilarious and saw it as a Kodak moment).
Once everyone had boarded the coach, our Egyptian tour guide gave us a briefing on what we would be doing through out the day. She explained how the Cairo traffic system worked - or to be more precise - how it didn't work. I thought she must have been slightly exaggerating but as the coach pulled out of the airport car park I was soon to witness how bad the traffic in Cairo really was. Our coach was led and followed by armed police, which was quite daunting, however, we were advised this was
for our own safety. Driving through Cairo was an event itself. The main roads must have been about 8 lanes wide although cars were constantly honking their horns and switching from lane to lane. The pace of the roads was slow and constant, and every so often I would notice a man with a sweeping brush sweeping lazily in the middle of the highway. The first man I spotted doing this I thought must have perhaps been a little crazy; the idea of sweeping in the middle of a highway with a constant swarm of traffic was surely a suicide attempt. However, after noticing this action every few minutes along the road it seemed to be the norm. We drove alongside small buses, which must have been part of the public transport service. The buses were covered in dust and horribly overcrowded, the tired looking passengers were literally falling out of the broken windows. The poverty was shocking, houses were half built and people were selling rotten looking fruit by the sides of the roads.
Our first stop was the pyramids. We pulled up to the pyramids, and as soon as the coach was parked we jumped off into the dry heat. With a bottle of water in hand for survival, we gazed in awe at the pyramids, an experience rather surreal. We had been warned in advance about the Arabs approaching us to try and sell us souvenirs. We were hounded almost immediately, their sales pitches though, were extremely comedic - I imagine due to the amount of western travellers, they had picked up some of our phrases such as "cheap as chips" & "buy one get one free". We had been told to take Cypriot pound notes and nothing larger as they would not give change. Experiencing the pyramids close up was amazing, and I took the opportunity to make good use of my camera. My friend and I asked one of the armed policemen to take a picture of us in front of one of the pyramids; he took the photo then held his hand out for money - the cheek! We had been told that the Arabs would allow us to sit on a camel for a small fee. However, looking at the scrawny camels with their knobbly knees and fur dropping off I decided against it. We paid a small fee to enter the pyramid and queued to go into a narrow tunnel that was incredibly humid and deprived of oxygen. People were entering from the right hand side and exiting from the left hand side. Whilst queuing my face became squashed against the back of somebody's shirt and I found myself unable to breath. After 10 minutes of feeling like a sardine, I decided it wasn't worth the crush, and headed back to the end of the queue to get out of there. Fortunately I was told that I didn't miss much!
We later went on to visit the smaller pyramid and the sphinx. The guide we had was extremely informative and taught us the history before every stop. At each stop we were guided around the site and able to snap happily away with our cameras.
We stopped for lunch at "Le Meridien" hotel. I had been warned in advance not to eat in Egypt and from the standards of hygiene I had witnessed so far I can easily say I wasn't tempted to. Warnings had come from home to steer clear of the ice cubes that could turn out to be disease in frozen form and to steer clear of the meat at all costs. However, stepping into "Le Meriden" hotel with its marble floors and impeccably dressed staff, I almost believed I was in the Ritz. We were ushered upstairs into the restaurant of the 5 star hotel (whilst being filmed by our own personal cameraman) , then seated by the waiters on hand. Lunch was a buffet, an array of tempting foods (nothing too dodgy looking) served on decorative platters. After being seated, there was eagerness from table to table to be the first in queue. After being served drinks, we headed up to tuck into the feast and enjoyed a fantastic meal!
Our next stop was the famous museum. By this time it was the hottest part of the day and I was feeling tired and very uncomfortable from the heat and humidity. We got off the lovely air-conditioned coach and had to wait in the gardens with the sun giving us all a personal battering. Outside the Museum people were scattered about lying under trees or any alternative object that would give the slightest scatter of shade. We were warned in advance that there was no air-conditioning in the museum, however, I personally interpreted that to mean it would be only a smidgen cooler than it was outside. I was incredibly wrong, we entered the museum and I showed a degree of excitement despite my lack of energy. Annoyed with myself because I really did want to take an interest, I found myself far too uncomfortable with the heat and after the first 20 minutes started feeling like I was a bored school child on a compulsory trip.
We visited a small papyrus shop nestled in the middle of a bustling Cairo high street. Leaving the bus around the corner, we quickly made our way through the crowds of local Egyptians and were offered cotton shopping bags and weaved rugs. We entered the gallery filled with colourful artwork on papyrus and were directed to a display table in the corner for a demonstration. The demonstration was led my a young Muslim girl who spoke perfect English and wore traditional dress. She showed us how the giant papyrus leaves were turned into paper to be used as a base for Egyptian artwork. A process that usually took a few days but in true blue peter style luckily she had one she had made earlier. After the demonstatrion I wandered around the gallery hoping to find an attractive piece of authentic Egyptian artwork as a souvenir. The workers in the gallery were extremely helpful no doubt eager to take cash from travellers. An older Egyptian girl stuck to me like glue and explained the meaning of each piece of artwork I looked at, nodding with occasional interest I accepted a pen and an order from her and decided to make a purchase quickly just to get her off my back. After completing the order form I took it over to a woman at a large desk to pay for my art. I handed the woman a bundle of yellow pound notes, aware I had paid more than the price stated she quickly snatched the notes and stuffed them into a drawer under the desk then quickly turned to the her co-worker with a look that made me think I had just been robbed of my life savings. I guessed I had no hope of any change and went on to collect my papyrus.
The part of the day I had been looking forward to the most was The Nile Cruise. We were shown our boat from a distance and conforming into an orderly line we headed towards it. From the welcoming we got you would have thought we were royalty. We embarked the boat along a red carpet and a brass band blew trumpets either side of us as we sweatily sauntered down. I began to feel a little underdressed for the occasion and thought I should have maybe saved up and bought myself a special frock for the entrance alone. Realising, how casually dressed everyone else was I realised I'd look a bit of a twit in an evening gown and boarded the boat with positive reassurance. We were led down a few steps into the restaurant. We were shown to tables by the staff on board. After being seated the waiter asked if we would like a drink. I was feeling in the need of a beer after the sheer exhaustion of the day, and ordered one immediately for my friend and me. The drinks came quickly, a small can of stella although not the type I am usually familiar with. The can was brown and beige, looking just as lethargic as the rest of Cairo I had witnessed. The waiter popped open the can and poured my drink. I sipped it rather apprehensively, wondering if it was just my paranoia or if the beer really did taste dirty. Either way, it soon soothed me and I sat back and started to enjoy what had been the breeziest moment of the day. We were served a three-course meal. The meal was basic, under usual circumstances I would have been disappointed but in Egypt being served a fresh slice of melon as a starter was a blessing - after all who ever died of melon poisoning. The main course was what tasted and looked like chicken on a skewer along with roasted vegetables and dessert was a fruit salad. After our meal we went for a walk outside the boat to soak up the visions of Cairo City. The smell of the Nile was repulsive a mixture of heat, sweat and sewage. My ideal vision of a Nile cruise was glamorous and romantic. As always the gritty reality is somewhat different, in reality it was smelly and sweaty although still enjoyable in a different way than I imagined. We returned to our dinner tables and were provided with entertainment from a French belly dancer. Gosh - the things she could do.
The day ended around 9pm and we headed on to the airport to catch our flight back. I thoroughly enjoyed my trip to Cairo, but can say hand on heart that I have no intention of visiting Egypt ever again. I went to Cairo to experience the culture and visit places of historical interest, I did both and as I was not particularly fond of my vulnerability in the country I have no reason to return. I would definitely advise anybody wanting to visit Cairo to try and do it in a day, it's not a place that you would like to relax in over a weekend. I would strongly advise that you visit as part of an organised tour, and refrain from wandering through the streets alone as its not a safe place to be. I would definitely recommend a day trip, as the sights and the history are out of this world - an amazing experience overall.
A Few Pointers
As a Muslim country, I was advised that as a mark of respect women should cover their shoulders. I took a sarong with me, and draped it over my shoulders - would recommend wearing loose light clothing as it gets incredibly hot and humid especially around the middle of the day.
Carry water with you everywhere. Again due to the heat, you'll be glad to have water to hand when it gets humid. Water's never tasted better!
Don't take much cash with you. There is absolutely no point in taking a credit/bank card with you if you're only going for the day and everything's included in your package. All souvenirs were sold for one Cypriot pound (you could get about 15 postcards for 1 pound) they don't give change, so make sure you only take small change with you.
The best advice I can give you is to embrace the whole experience and enjoy.
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