Cascais-Estoril (Portugal)

Estoril and its coastline has always been a favourite getaway for me especially when I worked in Lisbon and still to this day is somewhere I love to visit even though the area has changed a great deal with time. When I first visited Portugal's Cost do Sol over 20 years ago the area had what I can only describe as a 'Miss Faversham look.' It was run down and jaded around the edges. Beautiful villas had been left to decay when their owners ...
...looking at these beautiful ornate buildings with windows broken, overgrown gardens and gates falling off their hinges. Gypsies had taken refuge in many a property, children playing in the streets while scrawny cats jumped into turned over bins. Even though there was a sadness to the area part of the resort had enormous charm and made me feel nostalgic for the times when Estoril had been glorious. Fortunately, investors have dug deep down into their ... more

Estoril and its coastline has always been a favourite getaway for me especially when I worked in Lisbon and still to this day is somewhere I love to visit even though the area has changed a great deal with time. When I first visited Portugal's Cost do Sol over 20 years ago the area had what I can only describe as a 'Miss Faversham look.' It was run down and jaded around the edges. Beautiful villas had been left to decay when their owners fled during the Revolution. I remember walking through private lanes looking at these beautiful ornate buildings with windows broken, overgrown gardens and gates falling off their hinges. Gypsies had taken refuge in many a property, children playing in the streets while scrawny cats jumped into turned over bins. Even though there was a sadness to the area part of the resort had enormous charm and made me feel nostalgic for the times when Estoril had been glorious. Fortunately, investors have dug deep down into their bank accounts and restored Estoril and its coastline to its former glory.

You might think that after living in the Algarve why would I bother to visit Estoril. Yes, the Algarve has wonderful beaches but there is just something special about the Portuguese Riveira which it was called in the early 19th century. The main resorts, Estoril and Cascais are shelterd from the Atlantic winds and due to a microclimate with Mediterranean features, the Estoril coast has mild winters and an ideal summer temperature which never gets too hot; the autumn is ideal and is like a second spring. Once the haunt of exiled kings and the international jet set, is now a very prosperous suburb of Lisbon and has retained much of its old world charm.

The 35 kilometre coast road (Estrada Marginal) is very busy and if you do choose to walk from Estoril to Cascais be very careful because this road is a nightmare and the driving is insane. The noise of the traffic is so loud you will not be able to hear yourself speak. The road is bordered by old and new villas, satelite developments, parks, historic fortresses and agricultural land. During summer weekends, day trippers pour out of Lisbon and make for the beaches among this section of coast. Cascais and Estoril have good rail links and are ideal as bases from which to explore Lisbon and its environs.

The grand villas and hotels of Estoril testify to the international appeal that the resort once enjoyed. For me, Estoril has all the qualities of a high class resort, with its casino, beatiful hotels like the famous Palacio Hotel, palm fringed promenade, chic cafes and restaurants and Tamariz beach where you can enjoy the sea and the sun. One of my favourite walks is through the park leading to the casino with its gardens, esplanades and fountains. It has the feel of the French Riveira without the hustle and bustle - far more relaxing.

The architecture in Estoril definitely has Arabic and Moorish influences but they weren't the first people to inhabit this area of Portugal. From various studies it is known that Paleothic man lived here. Also Eneolithic people lived in 4000 year old caves. There is also much evidence of Roman life about 1 AD. Villas have been excavated and inscriptions found of important family names. Some topographic names are from Arabic origins from the time they lived here and started to develop the land. Ibne Mucane was born in Alcabideche which isn't too far from Estoril and made the first literary reference to the introduction of windmills into Europe. This Arab poet is remembered by a single monument near the windmills on the road to the Autodrome.

Palacio Hotel
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Estoril is known for its hotels and my favourite hotel is the Hotel Palacio which has been welcoming guests since the 1930's. This famous hotel became the home of King Umberto of Italy when he was deposed and it was also used as a centre for espionage during World War II. German and Allied secret agents are said to have met for discussions at the bar here and Jewish refugees, for whom neutral Portugal was the final staging post before fleeing to America, were obliged to pay their hotel bill by handing over their family treasures. Now, the hotel is a modern symbol of luxury and comfort in the tradition of the Old World. Over 200 rooms and suites offering a quiet elegance with its beautiful facade and classical styled interiors. Not to mention the beautiful landscaped gardens that are manicured and watered daily creating a maze of verdant shrubs and colourful flower beds.

Casino
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Any visit to the Estoril coast must include a visit to the casino. Now, I like a good bet on the horses or even on a boxing match but I have never been one for casinos probably because I don't like the dress restrictions and I don't understand half of the games played. However, Estoril casino is a little different. Its situation alone is stunning and remember you don't have to visit just to gamble as it has a lot of other glizzy attractions.

The casino is situated at the top of palm lined gardens with paths intertwined amongst small shrubs, bourganvilla and oleanders. The odd fountain appears as does a a park bench so you can sit and take in the view before entering the building. The external structure of the casino is an interesting one, very angular with lots of windows. It seems very 70's in style and this is the casino that inspired Ian Fleming to write Casino Royale. At night when the casino and grounds are lit up it becomes a very attractive sight indeed.

The inside of the building has a feel of the late 70's once again and is huge inside. There are six restaurants altogether serving various styles of cuisine from Chinese, Portuguese, International, Steak and a Buffet section which consists of French, Portuguese and Brazillian food. From 8.30pm in the Black and Silver room you can choose a four course meal with wine and coffee or sample delights from the buffet and then sit back and watch the floor show which usually starts at 11pm. I always find these floor shows very kitsch and over the top but they are very colourful I have to admit.

Then, if you fancy a flutter, the gaming rooms are open until 3am. For this there's an extra charge and you will need to show your passport. Gentlemen are required to wear a jacket and tie after 21.00.

There are over 1,200 gaming machines and over 30 table and poker games as well as a private gambling area. Some of the games played are Baccarat, French Bank, American Roulette, Bingo and Punto Banco.

Apart from the gambling areas there is also an art gallery showing various displays of modern art and sculpture, a theatre which has 400 seats and houses jazz, ballet and classical concerts.

The movie theatre is also popular showing International and Portuguese films. There are numerous bars and a nightclub so you can dance the night away. To gain access to the casino and all it has to offer you will have to be 18 years of age.

Conference facilities are available for private functions and if you wish to attend cultural events featuring the arts and crafts of Portugal then these take place throughout the summer months.

The casino is open daily from 15.00 until 03.00 and is a focal point for all visitors whether you want to enjoy International cuisine, pretend you are Maverick and play poker, dance until a new dawn, or just be sophisticated and take in a movie or attend a classical concert. If none of those things appeal to your tastes then you can just sit, have a coffee and chat with old friends.

Languages spoken are English, French, Portuguese and German.

Sporting Facilities
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There are several sports grounds. The most picturesque is in the Palmela Park near the Estoril Sol Hotel. The admission is free and it is open from 0800 hours until 17.00 hours. The Estoril Tennis Club is near the casino and has seven courts with all facilities. The courts are open in the evening also. You can also play tennis at the Quinta da Marinha and the Cascais Country Club.

Well, we all know visitors flock to Portugal for their love of golf and here in Estoril is a famous golf course and one of Portugal's best, Estoril Golf Club. I do love golf but I am not very good at it. I lose patience and always end up whacking the ball at a great speed and then spend most of the time on the course looking for it. So to find this wonderful course you have to go one and a half kilometres to the north of Estoril where the course overlooks the town. There is a superb panoramic view from the course towards the sea where villas and houses nestle in woodlands and towards the hills the view is unlimited. The actual course is set among pine and mimosa trees. Apart from the usual club facilities such as bars and restaurants there are two courses. One 5,210 metres long, 18 hole and designed by Mckenzie Ross. I am told by my son's best friend who is an up and coming golfer and a golf designer that this is not an easy course and very frustrating. The second course is 2,359 metres long, 9 holes and 34 par. The club is open from 08.30 until sundown.

Autodrome
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I haven't been to the autodrome for a very long time. My husband's stepfather was involved in motor racing in the old days so this venue was frequently visited and there was always a fantastc atmosphere when F1 races were held here and the whole of Estoril would be buzzing and you would could never find a room and all restaurants were packed to the hilt. Now, I believe it is still a popular venue and still hosts International and National races including the motor GP championship in September. All hotels and turismos will have details of the events.

So that's all about the first part of the coastline now I will move on to Cascais which is next door.

Cascais
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It is believed the name Cascais is from the plural of the word Cascais which means shells, probably referring to the piles of empty shells on the beaches. The connection with the sea gave its inhabitants the chance to request and be favourably considered for the priviledge of self government thus severing the connection with Sintra. In 1364, King Pedro I, granted them a municipality but it only came into effect in 1370 when King Fernando gave the castle to Gomes Lourenco de Avelar. From then on Cascais became a sentinel for Lisbon in the great maritime mission of discovering new worlds. It was the first place the navigators saw when they returned from long and adventurous voyages looking for African treasures, oriental spices, sugar and later - gold from Brazil. It was for this reason that in the time of King Manel I in the middle of the XVI century when Portugal's discoveries were at their height, Cascais was one of the first places to have a light house. It was located exactly where the Guia lighthouse is today.

Despite the rapid growth of the town, Cascais remains a fishing port and colourful fishing boats still set sail from the harbour. The catch is auctioned every day on the Lota. This busy town has an attractive old quarter with an animated pedestrian zone, and many cafes and resaturants. The beach is narrow and extends to Estoril. Take a stroll through the quiet old town, by the citadel and the carefully maintained municipal park (Parque do Marechal Carmona).

Situated in one of the most sought after areas of the town, where the sea appears to be trying to reach the verdant Gandarinha Park is the Palace of the Counts of Castro Guimaraes and whose medieval castle overlooks the Santa Marta Cove. The Palace was donated to the local authorities in 1924 when it became a museum. It is worth a prolonged visit not only for its unusual architecture but also for its wealth of art and archaeology. You can appreciate the works of art by national and international craftsmen, some of them depicting Cascais: the rich indo-portuguese furniture. In the archaelogical room are unique pre- historic articles. The library was constantly replenished and updated and has over twenty five thousand books, some of them from the XVII century, all richly bound. It provides an exceptional source of information and assistance to lecturers, researchers and students, also lending for home study. The most valuable work is the illustrated manuscript of the Chronicle of D. Afonso Henriques dated 1505 which opens with a beautiful coloured illustration of the City of Lisbon in the XVII century.

The museum is open daily from 11.00 - 17.00 but closed on Mondays and Public Hiolidays. There are guided tours in several languages.

Do not miss the opportunity to stroll in the adjacent park where there are some beautiful hand crafted tiles. There is also a mini zoo.

Other buildings of interest to look out for are the Citadel which is still used for military purposes and prominently overlooks the Atlantic. In the garden there is a small open artillery museum.

For lovers of the history of art a visit to the Parish church is a must. Dating from the 16th century, the altars are carved from gilded wood which are characteristically Portuguese. There are interesting panels of tiles. In the chapel paintings of the Anunciation date from the XVI century. On the walls of the nave hang precious paintings by Josefa D'Obidos (1634 - 1684). The patroness of the Temple, Our Lady of the Assumption was painted in 1900 by Malhoa.

Fairs and Markets
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I love the colour of the fairs and markets in this area. The costumes and parades add a touch of Portuguese eccentricity and atmosphere. My favourite is the fair held on a Wednesday morning in Cascais near the centre of the town. At the fair you will find everything on sale at reasonable prices amid a colourful, loud atmosphere. In the market also on Saturday mornings the local farmers and country folk sell their produce. Boxes of fresh vegetables are strewn across the ground while ladies crouched under umbrellas dressed in black barter with customers until a correct price is agreed. Equally typical is the fish auction held at Cascais and defintely worth a visit. This is held every night during weekdays. As soon as the fish arrives it is auctioned : the auctioneer starts his bidding, gradually coming down to the selling price, but it is really only the locals who understand the language as it is far too coloquial and spoken too quickly for even me to understand and I am fluent in Portuguese.

Food
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Happy times for me in Estoril are trying out various restaurants and tasting Portuguese food which I love with all my heart and is my favourite cuisine of all. The delights of the Portuguese table have been influenced over many years from Europe, North Africa and the east where in the 16th century, the Portuguese brought back many spices.

There are restaurants for all tastes and categories from sumptuous luxury to the local tavern, where you will be surprised to find quite low prices for excellent home cooking. Do not leave the Estoril Coast without trying the fish and shellfish which are local specialities: fish stew, grilled robalo, sole, dried codfish, shellfish rice, grilled lobster and stuffed crab. The most difficult part is the choice!

Finally
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After the hubbub of the towns, take a turn along the coast to the west and to the sand dunes of Guincho on the fringe of the Sintra hills. The air smells of pine trees freshened by the breeze from the sea. It is difficult to know what to appreciate the most: the vastness of the pinewoods rivalling the blue of the Atlantic: the flowers peeping up in the fields: the echoing caverns carved out of the rocks by the impestuous sea.

So twenty years on I am happy to say that Estoril and its coast is thriving and has lost its tattered edges and jaded look. It still has an exclusive feel and the influence of British ex patriates is still very much in evidence. This coast line is worth visiting at all times of the year: in the spring for the greenery: in the summer for its sun drenched beaches: in autumn for its mild climate and in winter for its beauty of the restless Atlantic. A very enchanting place to visit and thoroughly recommended..

Summary: A perfect coastal resort

 

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