Estoril and Cascais are adjoined resorts on the Lisbon Coast of Portugal. Less popular than the famed Algarve, the Lisbon Coast is less developed and remains a popular destination for the Portuguese themselves though seems overlooked by British Tourists. I discovered Estoril many years ago when I visited the Portuguese Grand Prix. After my first visit I feel in love with the area and returned year on year and though there is no Formula One Grand Prix held there any more it is an area I am hoping to return to as soon as the bank account allows!!
GETTING THERE
As I said above Estoril and Cascais are fishing towns on the Lisbon Coast, about 20 miles west of Lisbon. Estoril and Cascais mould into one another but retain very different characteristics and feelings which I'll describe later.
By Air:
There are regular direct flights to Lisbon Airport from Heathrow and Manchester with TAP and British Airways, however I've found there are flights from other regional British airports but this means changing at a European airport.
It is easy to get from the airport to Estoril/Cascais. If you are on a package tour you will most probably have a coach or taxi laid on in advance. Otherwise there are plenty of taxis on hand and I have always found them very reasonably priced though you may like to negotiate a price beforehand. I've always found the taxi drivers to be wonderful and helpful in Portugal if not a little dare devil! Watch out for the car swerving as they point out the Benfica stadium!
Estoril/Cascais is easily reached from Lisbon on the A7 motorway and so many people choose to hire a car. The journey takes around 20-30 mins.
There are also regular buses from Lisbon to Estoril/Cascais, the bus station being on 'the join' of Estoril and Cascais. There is also a rail service that follows the line of the coast from Lisbon to Estoril which takes just over 20minutes. This can be a bit of a drag if you have luggage with you but is very scenic and is an excellent route to take if you decide on a day trip to Lisbon during your holiday.
ESTORIL AND CASCAIS
Estoril and Cascais were historically fishing villages which grew into a tourist area when the Portuguese Royal Family and aristocracy started visiting the area in 1870. The area became a very fashionable resort and a number of luxurious dwellings were built. This fashionable image stayed into the mid-20th century when many Hollywood stars would stay when they visited Europe. Many of the exclusive hotels still tell stories of the great names who have stayed.
More recently Estoril and Cascais may not be the playground of the rich and famous but it has remained popular with Portuguese people, especially families.
The two towns have very different feels.
Estoril has developed into a rather swish area with a number of five star hotels and the famous Casino. It also has many nice residential areas but very few shops and attractions etc. Estoril still reflects the fashionable past as you will see by the buildings. It is a lovely base but is just that, a base. Unless you are staying in the area for a specific reason such as a sporting event, golfing holiday I would suggest making your base in Cascais.
Cascais has retained its fishing village feel and you can still see the fishermen at work early each morning. The buildings here are very traditional fishing style houses and there is a large square on the front which is surrounded by restaurants and bars which have a very friendly feel and are family friendly. In Cascais there are more resort style hotels and apartments but they are all very tastefully built and the area does not have the beach resort feel of other areas in Portugal and Spain. There are four miles of beach which are well kept but can get busy in the high season.
CLIMATE
The area is not as hot as the Algarve and has winds coming in from the Atlantic ocean. The summers are warm and can often be scorching though the wind can often be deceiving so do watch for getting burnt. By September time is usually remains warm but I've rarely found it to be sunbathing weather - more pleasant sitting out weather. On saying that this year they have suffered a wet summer and had a blistering short spell in September. From my experience they general have summers which we would consider wonderful in Britain but not as intense as other Med. resorts.
HOTELS
There's a wide range of hotels from 5 to 1 star and many self-catering apartments too. Many of the hotels offer rooms on a self-catering basis and I've noticed many hotel rooms have a small kitchenette area with fridge, electric ring, sick etc. I love these rooms as they give you such a freedom of choice.
Two hotels I have stayed at which I can highly recommend are:
Village Cascais Hotel: Rua Frei Nicolau de Oliveira Cascais, 2750
This hotel has self-catering style apartments as well as traditional hotel rooms. Well laid out there is a spacious pool and terrace area, a nicely laid out bar and lounge area and a superb restaurant. The hotel is a little outside Cascais which is a ten minute walk down hill (taxi back!). The hotel is opposite one of the areas most popular nightclubs 'Coconuts' but it is not unduly noisy. The hotel also offers a small spa and beauty treatment centre. There is a private car park at the rear of the hotel.
Hotel Cidadela: Avenida 25 de Abril Cascais, 2750
This hotel also has self-catering apartments and traditional hotel rooms. The hotel is set back in Cascais up a hill (not as steep as to the Village Cascais Hotel!) and is a five minute walk down into Cascais Square. They have a good sized pool and small terrace area the only downside being you have to walk through the reception area to get to the pool from many of the rooms which can be a pain if you want to pop back to your room etc but don't fancy parading in your swimwear. The bar area is small and cosy. There is a small private car park to the rear of the hotel. Under the front façade of the hotel is a small newsagent which gets that day's British papers in at lunchtime.
SHOPPING
The main shopping area is in Cascais which has a wide array of good quality shops and many craft stalls. Portuguese pottery is a great buy - very vibrant often in white decorated with deep blues and yellows. Portuguese linen is also a popular choice as are leather goods. There is a very exclusive jewelers on the Cascais shopping street should you fancy splashing out more on a piece of Portuguese gold which has an amazing deep yellow hue. The other must buy is of course Port of which there is a huge choice.
If you need more dedicated shopping there is a large indoor shopping centre on the outskirts opposite the motor racing circuit. On two levels, there is every type of shop you could desire and if you are lucky enough to have a petite and small feet look out for some fantastic clothing and shoe bargains! There are also a number of furniture and household shops selling some fascinating ornaments which make great presents. At the far end of the shopping centre are an array of restaurants including popular names such as Pizza Hut and McDonalds. There are regular buses up to the shopping centre and taxis are relatively cheap.
EATING OUT/FOOD
Estoril and Cascais has some wonderful eateries. The most popular local dish is grilled sardines - caught fresh that morning and grilled over hot coals, sensational and very simple. Grilling is the most popular form of cooking and most dishes are very plain grilled meats with salads and vegetables. I have visited with vegetarian friends who found the choice was slightly limited but not drastically. Egg and cheese based dishes are very popular. There is a superb Italian restaurant which is frequented by all the big names who still visit, usually in conjunction with sporting events just of the main shopping street of Cascais. They serve the best garlic mushrooms ever and have a superb choice of pasta and Italian dishes including a good vegetarian choice.
The Portuguese produce some excellent and very fattening cakes, often what we would call a gateuax more than a cake. On the main shopping street of Cascais there is a large bakery - enter at your waistlines peril!
There are also a number of fast food outlets in Cascais such as McDonalds.
NIGHTLIFE
Nightlife in Cascais mainly revolves around the main square and bars that have outdoor seating areas. Cascais has a very laid back feeling and you will see many families out into late into the night. This makes it a very relaxing area where people just sit out in the warm night air, sipping a beer and watching life go by with friends. In the square there is often flamenco and live music or the local bar pumps out music - one of the most popular being Vangelis's soundtrack from Columbus.
If that sounds too sedate there is Coconuts with its multiple dance floors and bars. Very trendy, very hip it often attracts people from Lisbon to its special club nights.
If you are looking for something more glitzy there is the Casino in Estoril. You will need to take your passport with you for id if I remember correctly and dress is smart. The casino also has a theatre and they put on a yearly review which is famed throughout Europe. Topless dancing girls, feather headdresses - its all very Las Vegas. Tickets can be bought just to see the show or you can make an evening of it and have a meal beforehand.
SIGHTSEEING
There is little sighting in Cascais and Estoril themselves other than the actual town itself if you see what I mean. The fishing area of Cascais is fascinating.
However 8 miles north of Estoril and Cascais is Sintra which requires a full day to explore. Sintra is up in the mountains and was described by the poet Byron as 'glorious Eden'. In Sintra there is a very luxurious 14th Century Palace which was a former Royal residence. The Palace has a very sumptuous interior with many styles including Gothic and Moorish.
Just outside of Sintra is the Palace of Pena which is a folly built in 1832 which like the Palace at Sintra has many styles incorporated. It was designed by a Bavarian and as such looks very much look like the fairytale Germanic castles. There is a display of jewelry, pottery and other effects that the Royal family left when they went into exile in 1910. Outside the Place is Pena Park with formal gardens as well as more wild areas. A haven for anyone with an interest in gardening.
As I mentioned before there is the coast railway line to Lisbon which only takes about 20minutes so Lisbon is within easy reach for exploring.
SPORT
There are many sporting facilities in the are for the keen sportsman including horse-riding, watersports, tennis and golf.
There are four main golf courses in the area and many hotels have special green fees arranged with them. 3 are 18 hole and 1 is 9 hole. The most popular is probably Quinta da Marinha Cascais 2750 which is also the closest to the resorts. You will have to book at all the golf courses though as they are very popular.
But if competing is too much for you why not spectate?
Estoril is host to many international events including tennis, golf, windsurfing and the Portuguese Motorcycle Grand Prix. There are also a number of smaller international motor racing events and domestic events. Formula One does not visit any more to race but many teams do attend the Estoril circuit for testing.
My top tip regarding Estoril is if you have a family member who is a keen follower of one the sports above it is an ideal location to coincide a family holiday with a sporting holiday. Whilst the sports fan is off watching their thing there is plenty to keep the family amused elsewhere and a lovely beach resort to relax at.
GENERAL
Estoril and Cascais offers a great, relaxing beach style holiday but in an area less commercialised than other such resorts. What with the attraction of major sporting events it is an excellent compromise for a family with diverse interests.
It is a quieter style area and family orientated and I wouldn't recommend it if you are looking for a serious party atmosphere. I wouldn't recommend it for the out and out sun worshipper as a heatwave can't be guaranteed but if you are looking for pleasant weather and a healthy glow it is an ideal place. Those with an interest in gardening will also love the Sintra region.
The people are remarkably friendly and the area is kept clean and feels well cared for. As a family or a tourist I recommend you stay in Cascais, Estoril is a good base if you have a definite plan of action. A week is a good length of holiday if you are going for a quiet, relaxing beach holiday however if you are taking in one of the sporting events I recommend you go for 10 days with a settling in period before the event and a wind down afterwards so you feel as if you've had a holiday. Otherwise for sporting events it is possible just to go for the weekend or duration but I would feel miffed that I didn't get longer to stay and enjoy this delightful place.
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