Cemetery of the Recoleta, Buenos Aires

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The beautiful city of the dead.
A review by mimi_solei on Cemetery of the Recoleta, Buenos Aires
October 1st, 2005


Author's product rating:   Cemetery of the Recoleta, Buenos Aires - rated by mimi_solei

Prices Excellent 
Is it worth visiting? Excellent 
Transport links Average 
Family Friendly Average 

Advantages: Beautiful cemetery .  Key place to visit in Buenos Aires
Disadvantages: Not great if you do not like Cemeteries .  Public transport access is not great

Recommend to potential buyers: yes 

Full review
No visit to Buenos Aires would be complete without a trip to the famous Cemetery of Recoleta.

Background about the district ('barrio') of Recoleta
In the 1870's, a yellow-fever epidemic sent many of the cities elite from their comfortable lodgings of San Telmo to this neighborhood. As a result, Recoleta prospered and is now considered the 'mayfair' of Buenos Aires.

The Cemetery is the home of a serveral famous Argentines, the most notable Eva Peron (or Evita).

The historic cemetery is adorned with statues that complement the beautiful mausoleums created in a wide variety of architectural styles. The entire cemetery is laid out in sections like city blocks, with wide tree-lined walkways branching into smaller "streets" filled with mausoleums.

IMPRESSION: The day I visited the cemetery, it was a clear sunning winter afternoon. At the entrance, there are girls selling maps for the cemetery. TIP If you ever go, you can save money by getting the Time Out Buenos Aires book which provides with a map and the most famous names within the cemetary.

As you walk along the cobbled paths the mausoleum (like small houses where the dead are placed) of each family bears the family name etched into the facade and brass or bronze plaques are added to the front of the structure for each particular family member. All mausoleums in La Recoleta traditionally engrave a death date but no birth date is maintained. The white washed walls of these buildings and imposing statues create an aura of wealth, power and however peculiar, peace. As you walk along the path ways and lose yourself in the labyrinth of the narrow pathways, it strikes you odd that this is a cemetary. It is much more like a quite small town or city. Stray cats appear from time to time either basking in the sun light or chasing after some imaginary prey.

GETTING THERE: There are no direct subway ('Subte') or Bus connections to the entrance of the cemetary. The best bet is to take a cab (which is dirt cheap considering the exchange rate) or walk Plaza San Martin (20min). Walking gives you a chance to look at Recoleta. (Which I personally didn't find that impressive but hey that's me)

CONS? It felt strange watching people take photos of the mausoleums. It felt intrusive and disrespectful. Yet I am not really one to talk as I too took photos of the statues on and around the mausoleums.

FINAL WORD: Go visit. It is a spectacular sight and unless you've seen the ones in america, this is well worth a visit. ENTRANCE IS FREE (time of visit Sep 2005) 
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