Ceske Krumlov (Czech Republic)

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Cesky Cesky Bang Bang

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5 Feb 24th, 2005 

20 Ciao members have rated this review on average: exceptional

Advantages:
Too many to list

Disadvantages:
Doesn't really reflect the real Czech comunity

Recommendable Yes:

Detailed rating:

Value for Money

Sightseeing

Shopping

Nightlife

Ease of getting around

muiguifa

muiguifa

About me:

Some pics available on my ops now! :) x

Member since:11.01.2005

Reviews:9

Members who trust:4

I come from Czech Republic; I have lived there most of my life! Yet I have never heard of Cesky Krumlov (apart from a vague memory of geography and history lessons) until I set of on my round the world trip. I began to notice that anytime we befriended any travellers or got chatting in a bar, that after necessary introduction including our countries of origin, this raving about Cesky Krumlov would happen very shortly after passing Prague. It happened so often in fact, that soon it seemed to me that the whole world loved Cesky Krumlov and the only person who hasn’t been was me. I was stunned as I have lived for the whole19 years of my life just about 3 hours away from this so-it-would-seem 9th wonder of the world. I felt silly, ashamed and ignorant. In fact I got so desperate that slowly I have started to plot a plan.

We were always going to visit Czech Republic on our way back from Asia but we decided to make an alteration to our itinerary and our trip was extended purely for purpose of going to Cesky Krumlov.

“Why would you want to go there?” asked my mother when I presented her with our plan of action. And to be honest I felt a little bit better after hearing that. It made me really happy that there is some other person who lives in CR and hasn’t yet found it worthwhile to go to this town. But soon I was to be considered ignorant yet again and it was my friends who rubbed in all over my face with stories of great budget holidays in Cesky Krumlov. We just had to go!

But enough of prologue and let us proceed to the facts.

HOW TO GET THERE?
There are several ways how to get to Cesky Krumlov with hiring a car being probably the most comfortable one. It is fairly easy to hire a car in CR although I have never done so myself. Mainly as I have learnt to drive in Britain and the whole driving on the wrong (in fact right) side of the road is a big no no to me. However if you are confident enough there are car hires available almost everywhere. Asking in your hotel could save you lots of hassle but the internet could save you money, it is full of car hire agencies nowadays. The prices vary and a quick browse tells me that you could get a car from £9 a day. Check for extra conditions though.

By coach is how we got to Cesky Krumlov ourselves. It takes about three hours from Prague Florenc Bus/coach station. (Very easy to find with A-Z) The coach to Cesky Krumlov departed from the platform just across from the information and ticket centre but check with your ticket because that could change. It is very advisable to book your ticket in advance, especially during the summer tourist season – as it is in fact a very popular destination. This is best done by purchasing and collecting the ticket from the ticket centre at Florenc itself. There is a Foreigner counter with English or German speaking assistant there, so all you need to know is when and where you are going. The ticket to Cesky Krumlov will cost you on average 150* Czech Koruna and it has the good old disclaimer informing you that you should check that all the details are correct at the time of purchasing. If you decide to cancel your trip or change any details you could try to return your ticket and claim back part of your fee. But I wouldn’t bet on that. So make sure all is correct before you leave the teller window.

When you are boarding the driver will let the passengers with reserved seats board first. There could be a bit of a shove after that as the people with no reserved seating will have a little private battle for the seats left. To be honest, no one wants to stand for three hours. There is usually a charge of 20* Czech Koruna for any luggage put to the luggage compartment and there could be a price of 10* Czech Koruna for oversized luggage on board of the vehicle. By oversized I mean a 60 litre backpack, you shouldn’t be charged for your handbag, briefcase or a day sack. Try to have the correct change or at least smaller notes as one thousand Koruna notes will just irritate the driver. You may not understand his swearing but it will save you the trauma of being shouted at in a foreign country and language. The fact is that these charges are not advertised anywhere else but on the bus when it finally rocks up, so no one should really be blamed for spending their last change on bottle of cola and a newspaper but I guess I am not here to change the way the Czech transport companies communicate with their customers. It is just an advice.

The Czech intercity coaches are mostly no comparison to British standards, so do not expect a steward with light refreshments or drinks to be sold on board. Cater for the three hour journey with no breaks apart from chartered stops. The coach we took was in fast a little bit rustic but it got us there safely.

By Train:
Prague’s main train station (which is the station you need to be at to get to Cesky Krumlov) is a state of the art international train station. In the last ten years most of the Czech railway system has been rebuilt to match the European standards. You can now enjoy smooth ride, new trains and sparkling clean train stations which have facilities suitable for foreign visitor use. Some of the little local lines are still in waiting to be upgraded so the occasional rocky ride on the colourful graffiti decorated rustic trains is still available. If this is what you want to see, do not delay and go to CR as this will all change in the near future.

It isn’t necessary to book your train ticket as more room is available for all the beauty-of-Czech-Republic hungry tourists. As far as I know purchasing a ticket in advance does not reserve you a seat, unless you specially request it and then it would only apply to first class carriages (not so much different to second class though). However, do not panic! You will get a seat once you are on the train. The ticket costs on average 150* Czech Koruna so there is not much of a difference in price but you might need to change trains in Ceske Budejovice. A big down point for taking a train is the fact that the Cesky Krumlov Train station is a bit of a walk from the town centre. Where the bus takes you straight to the heart of this Czech beauty, you will have to sweat up the hill on your hike from the train station. The ride also takes that extra bit longer to compete with the coach. But the decision is yours.

WHERE TO STAY?
Cesky Krumlov thrives on the whole tourist industry. Near enough every building there has some sort of accommodation on offer. From hostels with beds for a mere 200* Czech Koruna to high standard hotels for which you can fork out thousands if you want to. I would advise you to book somewhere, even just for the first night. There should not be a problem in finding a place to stay but no one wants to be stranded in the middle of the night, do they. Most of the accommodation is well advertised on internet or by travel agents and people in CK are well educated in many languages.

When checking in some proof of ID will be necessary (Passports will do nicely). As for backpackers; the hostel owner may keep your passport as a deposit or ask you to pay up front. Recommendation; Hostel Ryba is really cool; basic but clean.

WHERE TO EAT, DRINK AND MEET?
Anywhere! As for food, you can cook for yourself in the hostels or apartments but go out and enjoy the traditional Czech cooking as it comes at very low prices and delicious in taste. It is NOT only about dumplings! (Even though I personally love them) Great varieties of restaurants (including foreign and vegetarian cuisines), cafes, bars, cocktail bars, pubs, clubs and tea rooms are scattered all around the town. The banks of river Vltava offer the perfect spot for any sort of catering. You can find little balconies overhanging the gentle stream or sheltered beer gardens next to the water. Perfect relaxing spots or romantic hideaways. It reminded me of the Sunday afternoons I used to have in those days before I started to work all weekends. I am sure that if you close your eyes you could, if you tried enough, imagine this idyllic relaxed sunny Sunday afternoon I am talking about. It usually involves good friends and glasses of wine (the lovely Moravian sort helps me), maybe a box of chocolates or ice cream. Well, once you get the image just hold it for a while and enjoy it. And when you are done savouring this thought, you will know exactly how Cesky Krumlov felt for me every single day I spent there - no matter what week day it was.

Before I go on another topic I just have to mention my favourite (and very recommended to all meat lovers) restaurant in the town centre. Satlava, with its cellar like atmosphere, waiting staff in period costume uniforms and a massive open fireplace where all your chosen meats will be prepared, should be a must go on your to do list; even if just for a drink. It is indescribable, or at least I can’t put it to words. The nearest I have ever got was one word. Gluttony! I am sorry! I had to say it but most importantly I had to do it. And it was soooooo gooooood!

WHERE CAN YOU SHOP?
Where can’t you shop in Cesky Krumlov would probably be more appropriate. Little stores, big stores, stalls and benches are just heaped with souvenirs and crafty stuff. You can find anything from postcards, woodwork and pottery over to metal work, fashion and fine art. Start at the castle and work your way down to the little windy streets. Even just browsing and raking through the piles of souvenir junk is very interesting. All the colours, all the shine – for me, it was heaven on Earth. You can spend hours by just admiring the creativity of local artists without spending a penny. There are no hawkers or agents to force you to buy anything but somehow I feel you won’t leave empty handed.


WHAT TO DO?
Well, what are you into? We have just about covered wining, dining and shopping. Now we have to cover a bit for those who also love different kind of recreation.

Most of the hostels or hotels offer bike hire. Well I passed on that as I am not really a keen biker but I thought I would mention that for all those active sorts.

Should you fancy a bit of a splash in the hot Czech summer the river Vltava comes with rafting, canoeing and kayaking opportunities.

Cesky Krumlov is not the biggest of the towns and walking is the best way to get around. Walk through the little medieval streets and enjoy the colourfully decorated houses. For some greenery and relaxation, stroll through the Castle Park and rest in the shade of the trees by the pond.

When in the Castle Park you won’t miss the outdoor theatre with its revolving auditorium. It is definitely interesting sight to see. It left me with kind of split feelings. I should probably mention that I have never seen a show from this auditorium (it comes very much recommended by all my friends though) but I can imagine the evening performance with the real castle at the background and a real park for props. When the auditorium revolves you follow the actors as they move from scene to scene without the curtain going down. Now I can see that to be a great experience but when you think of the theatre as a blob of concrete and machinery plonked right next to this architectonic gem and in the middle of beautiful greenery you can understand why some people are for removing this gimmick. It is not really clear
Pictures of Ceske Krumlov (Czech Republic)
Ceske Krumlov (Czech Republic) Picture 89114 tb
Passageway from Castle to Theatre
whether it will or will not be removed yet so in the mean time you can judge for yourself.

The castle is probably the main attraction in CK. The town information centre or your hotel will offer plenty of material on the town itself including tourist maps and guides. But you don’t really need a map to get to the castle. From the town centre just head up the hill and one way or another you will get there. You enter the castle over the moat bridge and on a good day you can spot the castle pets sunning themselves. They are not cats or dogs, but brown bears. What better pet can you pick for a Czech castle? You can wonder around the courtyards and you should definitely have a stroll through the park which I have mentioned above. You can appreciate the architecture and the beautiful surroundings free of charge so make it last - it’s worth it. Before you start strolling for hours on end, check the tour timetable and buy your ticket though. There are only so many tours in foreign language available in a day and so you do not want to miss them as to enter the castle you will need a guide and pay for his services. There are two routes and some additional sights for you to see and pay for. I have listed those at the end of my review as there is quite a lot of boring info there.

We took Route I simply because we were on a budget. But the information centre in the second courtyard will advise you on the time of the next viewing and all the options available for you. Almost everyone in Cesky Krumlov speaks English or German and I believe that other languages wouldn’t lack. Our guide spoke in English and was very helpful. He wasn’t scared of interaction. His English was very good and pronounced clearly with a reasonable speed for anyone to understand his accent. The visit itself lasted about an hour and we were not brain stormed with far too much information on history as Czech tour guides usually tend to do. A good bit of history was covered however. The guide focused more on topics of interest like the Golden Carriage and the Masquerade Ball Room.

You can take a look at Cesky Krumlov from the Tower to which a separate entrance fee is necessary to purchase. It is worth it only during sunny days with good visibility though. Otherwise, you could say, it is just a tower.

Coming from Moravian background a quote from one movie stuck in my head. It states: “In Southern Moravia we lure tourists to our wine cellars and in Northern to (coal) mines!” Well it isn’t really true but the Krumlov people have taken some ideas from it. The Graphite Mine is in fact one of the tourist attractions there. They put you in overalls, big rubber boots and most importantly, loan you a good old helmet with the light on it (great fun). After being equipped you are ready for your first shift. You get crammed into this tiny train (which makes you think that the Czech government must have been using child labour mostly for this job) and sent down underground. Don’t worry now; you won’t need to earn your fee back to the surface. The guide will take you around and show the way things used to be done when it was still an operational mine. I would have never thought I would find this interesting but I did. So give it a benefit of doubt. You could miss out on entertainment as our guide was really funny and he even lets you hold a power drill. Cool! I think kids would love this. It is dark, damp and about 5 miles of walk though so you might want to discuss that with your young ones first. Definitely not recommended for claustrophobics! You are not crammed in a small place all the time but at times I felt uneasy. But the cheekiness and wit of our guide dissolved my worries in seconds. It is something different to do on your holidays and I would really recommend it.

To get there; either ask to tourist information or head past the castle car park until you get to dual carriageway. Walk for about a mile away from the castle. You can’t miss this sight. It is well posted and English tours are available.

SUMMARY
Cesky Krumlov is a part of UNESCO and you can see that it is really well looked after. In my opinion the best times to visit are from May to September when the conditions would probably be the most suitable to enhance your experience as Czech winters are generally too bitter. The town itself has been compared to the town in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang by my boyfriend. Well I have not seen this movie so I would describe it more like WOW. I think I can say that Krumlov is one of the nicest and most picturesque towns in Czech Republic.

So go and see it! I will meet you there as I am most definitely going back. Shall we say Satlava at 7:30?

Take care and thanks for reading…..until next time. x
******************************************************************

*Prices from 2004

Current conversion rate is 1GBP = 43 CZK

The castle opening hours according to the web site below: www.castle.ckrumlov.cz
Bookings and reservations (10% additional charge)
Telephone : +420 380 704 721
Fax : +420 380 704 710
Admission fees for pre-reserved groups after operational hours - 100% surcharge
For pre-reserved groups of more than 25 persons (Baroque Theatre - 20 persons), the group leader is admitted free of charge.
Guided tours of castle interiors:

Box office is on II. Castle Courtyard Entrance to tour routes is on III. Castle Courtyard
I. visitor's route to the Český Krumlov Castle : Renaissance and Baroque chambers, Golden Carriage, Mask hall
II. visitor's route to the Český Krumlov Castle : Interiors from the 19th century

Number of visitors for one tour:
1st route: minimum 8 persons, maximum 45 persons
2nd route: minimum 8 persons, maximum 25 persons
The castle is open every day except Monday, from 1 April to 31 October
visitor's
route Tickets in opening hours
visitor foreign visitor
full admission reduced full admission reduced
I. visitor's route 100,- 50,- 160,- 80,-
II. visitor's route 80,- 50,- 140,- 70,-
Castle Theatre 110,- 50,- 180,- 90,-
Castle Tower 35,- 20,-
Castle lapidarium 20,- 10,-
Castle Gardens free free free free
The castle is open daily except Monday:
visitor's route April and October
daily
except Mondays last tour begins May and September
daily
except Mondays last tour begins June to August
daily
except Mondays last tour begins
I. visitor's route 9:00 - 17:00 16:00 9:00 - 17:00 16:00 9:00 - 18:00 17:00
II. visitor's route 9:00 - 17:00 16:00 9:00 - 17:00 16:00 9:00 - 18:00 17:00
Castle Theatre May - October 10:00 - 16:00 15:00
Castle Tower daily 9:00 - 16:30 daily 9:00 - 16:30 daily 9:00 - 17:30
Castle lapidarium July, August 10:00 - 17:00
Castle Gardens 8:00 - 17:00 May - September 9:00 - 19:00
If there is Bank Holiday on Monday, the castle is open for public and closed the following day.

Castle Tower Opening Hours - daily except Mondays:
April and October 9 am - 4.30 pm
May and September 9 am - 4.30 pm
June to August 9 am - 5.30 pm
Tickets:
full admission 35,- Kč
reduced - children, students, seniors 20,- Kč
children under 10 years free
Castle Theater in the 5th courtyard:

May to October 10 - 4 pm
Tickets :
full admission 110,- Kč
reduced - children,
students, seniors 50,- Kč
children under 6 years free
Admission fees for one visitor's route in English
full admission 180,- Kč
reduced - children, students, seniors 90,- Kč
children under 6 years free
Castle lapidarium on the 1st Castle Courtyard:

Unguided tour
Opening hours daily except Mondays:
July to August 10 am - 5 pm
Tickets :
full admission 20,- Kč
reduced - children, students, seniors 10,- Kč
children under 6 years Free
 

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Comments about this review »

Belle 09.03.2005 19:49

Wow, I feel as though I was on the trip with you - well done you K xxx

shoppingpuss 08.03.2005 13:52

Wel done, brilliant detailed review. Sounds a lovely place to visit. Andie

sit2020 07.03.2005 07:38

It is good to learn something every day, I learn't loads here thanks.

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