Stunning, superb, amazing – there are not enough superlatives to describe this mother of all palaces.
I have been to Versailles twice so far and have still not managed to see it all. I was expecting it to be grand but nothing on the scale of what is found at Versailles.
Versailles was the home to the French kings from 1682 until the Revolution of 1789 brought the monarchy to an end. I’m afraid I really don’t know that much about the history behind it all and to be honest I am not too interested. Long, long ago I read some historical romances featuring Angelique as the heroine set in that period and prefer to recall the romance and elegance rather than the no doubt rather depressing reality of history. So forget the history and be transported back to a fairy tale age of luxury and romance where handsome kings and beautiful queens, dressed in rustling silk and powdered wigs dance in glorious salons lit by thousands of candles. Join them as they walk or ride in the perfect gardens or sail on the Grand Canal in Gondolas.
There is so much to see at Versailles that it is difficult to know where to begin. The chateau is obviously impressive but has been copied so often that it seems in some ways familiar. It is the gardens and the grottoes and the sheer size of the whole that has captured my heart and imagination.
These stunning formal gardens epitomise French Classicism and the immense scale of this elegant creation testifies to the ‘Sun King’s’ power not only over his people but, at least in his own mind, over nature itself.
Here
countless fountains are operated to command and the vast sea like Grand Canal is, by artificial means, kept calm. Everywhere you look you will find characters from myth and legend held captive in a pool or fountain at the behest of a French king.
There are fabulous fountains everywhere, fountains for seasons, fountains for gods. Apollo emerges from the water to greet the king and the fountain of Enceladus shows the fallen Titan struggling amongst the rocks – he waits until commanded when a gushing fountain will spout from his open mouth. The grandest fountains are those of the fountain of Neptune which has 99 jets. This is where the evening performances are held.
The fountains only operate at certain times and although we did not know this we were lucky enough to catch them in action. They are unbelievable and the music which plays in certain areas adds to the atmosphere even more. I think they are set off at 11.30 and 3.30 on Sundays and some Saturdays but it is best to check on the website. Do not miss them.
Another impressive sight is the Orangery where in summer over 1000 orange trees and palms, in their Versailles tubs, are wheeled out from the safety of the Orangery to bask in the sun. The king apparently had far more than these.
There are several uniquely individual groves or grottoes which are enclosed and secret. When you discover them you feel you have found treasure. I have not yet seen them all but of those I have by far the most impressive is le Bosquet des Rocailles. It was designed as an outdoor ballroom and I can’t think of anything more romantic than dancing under the stars with giant candelabras reflecting from the water cascading down the rock terraces.
Beyond the gardens approached by half a mile of the Royal Avenue is the Grand Canal. This 104 acres of water in its heyday saw naval ships playing naval games and gondolas for pleasure.
So to the buildings: apart from the main chateau there are also a couple of baby chateaux. The largest is the Trianon which the king used for getting away from it all. It’s a pretty pink palace for family use as opposed to the whole court.
The Petit Trianon was Marie-Antoinette’s special little getaway and nearby is her picturesque little hamlet. The hamlet has a farmhouse, a mill, dairy, dovecote and lake. Here Marie-Antoinette played at being a country girl, milking the sweet little cows and shepherding scented sheep. Perhaps Beethoven had something similar in mind when he composed his Pastoral symphony – it certainly came into my head when I saw it.
Midway between the petit Trianon and the hamlet is the Temple of love – a nice place for a picnic.
Finally, there is the main chateau itself. I only took a quick visit here – really only to escape the poring rain. It is, as is to be expected very spectacular. Highlights include the Hall of mirrors where the famous treaty of Versailles was signed ending the war. The 17 mirrors were the height of extravagance at a time when mirrors were rare and expensive. These mirrors face matching windows which overlook the gardens and the website says this room looks best in the afternoon when the sun gleams through the windows and is reflected everywhere – I can imagine that it does.
Anyway I think I’d better stop now - my typing finger is tired and I’m sure you’ve got the gist of what I’m saying by now which is that this place is simply superb – do visit it if you can.
~ * ~ Getting there ~ * ~
The official website has detailed information of the various ways of travelling to Versailles including links to timetables.
We took the RER Line C Gare d’Orleans-Austerlitz to Versailles. This takes about half an hour and cost about 26F for the round trip. Be sure, however, to go in the right direction as this can be a source of confusion. Going to Versailles you need Versailles (RG) Rive Gauche NOT Versailles (CH) Chantiers.
For four people it would probably also be economical to take a taxi, with the added bonus of being dropped where you want including in the park.
~ * ~ Prices and Times ~ * ~
The Chateau is closed on Mondays.
There are different admission prices to the various attractions. Entrance to the main chateau is 46F and 35F after 3.30 (I think this is covered by the Paris Museum pass if you get one).
It is a good idea to visit the website and decide which bits you would most like to see and plan accordingly because it is impossible to see everything in one visit. There is a combined ‘passport’ ticket if you do have all day there. Guided tours are also available.
~ * ~ Other Hints ~ * ~
There are very few places to eat or drink within Versailles which I think is very strange given the French passion for food and the size of the place. So it is advisable to take refreshments with you. Although officially there is only one picnic place I don’t think this is heavily enforced.
Check out the website for ideas of what you want to see. Transport is available to the Grand Canal, the Hamlet and the Trianons by small trains 35F return and horse drawn carriage 21F single – either of these would be worth taking as it is a long walk. We took the train to the Hamlet and explored our way back.
Cycles can be hired at the Grand Canal at 25F per hour, as can rowing boats in season.
I also noticed at their website details of 90 minute ‘Spectacles’ held at various times on summer evenings. Having seen the fountains in full glory I can just imagine how wonderful one of these performances might be with drama, music and fireworks added as well. I certainly hope I get the opportunity to see one.
Website is at http://www.chateauversailles.fr/
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01.12.2004 10:50
Great Review. I was going to write one but can't add much to your comprehensive piece. The only suggestion is that you can also go by SNCF to Versailles Gare Rive Droit (RD) (<30 mins) which is a little longer walking distance to the Chateau but handier for the shops, restaurants and markets. You also start from Gare St Lazare and you travel overground, not in the sewers aka the RER. I feel more secure on this route. mark
24.07.2003 17:30
"It was just like the Salle de Glaces at Versailles - pretty fancy for an ice-cream parlor." Ben Reich. LoL, D
31.01.2001 17:35
brilliant, brilliant, brilliant! better than reading the guides that travel companies give u! cheers :)