I never forget a face but in your case I think I'll make an exception :)
I never forget a face but in your case I think I'll make an exception :)
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Cheltenham lies in Gloucestershire at the heart of the Cotswolds, a very beautiful part of England. I spent a valentine weekend there earlier this year which was my first full experience of the town.
~BRIEF HISTORY OF CHELTENHAM~
Cheltenham is an Anglo-Saxon market town which was completely transformed in the Georgian era. It wasn't until 1716 when it's fortunes turned on an upward curve, as legend has it pigeons were spotted in a muddy field pecking at salt deposits left by a natural mineral spring (for this reason pigeons appear on the towns crest). This obscure event saw local entrepeneurs warm to the benefits which a natural spa could offer an over indulgent society. Within a few years wells and pump rooms were built and Cheltenham became a magnet for the wealthy who embraced the healing waters springing forth from the ground. King George the 3rd visited in 1788 and with the Royal patronage he gave, a building boom ensued. Georgian society flocked and built rows and rows of delightful Regency terraces complete with ornate wrought iron railings and pretty garden squares and parks. At it's height when Cheltenham was a holiday haven for rich Londoners and the place to be seen, Cheltenham was the largest Regency town in England. In recent times Cheltenham has avoided the sixties and seventies building booms and in the process retained it's allure as a supreme example of how Georgian society was like. It
has retained a huge amount of architecture (only Bath has more Georgian architecture) and is as beautiful a large town as there is anywhere in England.
~HOW TO GET THERE~
If your travelling by car from the North or South then exit the M5 motorway at either junction 10 or 11 and follow the signs for Cheltenham. If your from the West (Wales) or East of the country then use the A40 which links with the ring road. Compared to large cities like Birmingham and London, traffic is much lighter although centrally congestion can occur.
Cheltenham Spa Railway station is a main station on the Great Western line and has good links (Bristol/ Cardiff/ Gloucester/ Birmingham/ London Paddington).
~PLACES OF INTEREST~
Pittville Park - Is located at the North part of the town and houses the famous Pittville Pump Room whose natural waters still flow to this day. If your of a brave disposition then you can sample the taste although I wouldn't heartily recommend. As well as the Pump Room the Park is very beautiful and a delightful example of how a Regency park was like. The park houses scenic lakes and gardens and ornate bridges.
Holst birthplace museum - Gustav Holst the composer of The Planets Suite was born and lived in the town from 1874, the museum is a shrine to Gustav and has lots of memorabilia linked to him.
Art Gallery and Museum - Has a large collection of costumes and jewellery, very interesting museum as far as museums go.
For the best examples of Regency architecture, stay central and seek out the Montpellier, Regent and Bayshill areas of the town all within a stones throw of the main shopping areas.
Cheltenham is very famous as the host to the National Hunt festival of racing, held in late March, culminating with the climactic Gold Cup. During festival week the town is taken over by the racing fraternity, especially the racing mad Irish and bear in mind that all accomodation during this week is booked up months in advance.
Further afield are of course the Cotswolds, an unspoilt area of natural beauty. There are loads of little Cotswold towns and villages worth a trip including Bibury, Chipping Camden, Bourton On The Water and Stow On The Wold. There are public footpaths all over the Cotswolds so you can get out your hiking boots and see for yourself what the Cotswolds have to offer. To the West of Cheltenham lies the Forest of Dean an ancient Royal hunting forest where Car Rallys are a regular occurence.
Cheltenham has also become famous as a festival town, not a month goes by without some sort of festival taking place. The most famous is undoubtedly the International Festival of Music held in July which has gotten so large that fringe festivals take place.
~ACCOMODATION~
Cheltenham with all of it's allures has a wide array of places to stay although most of which are at the upper end of the market. Cheltenham has some splendidhotels including De La Bere, Thistle, Prestbury House, Macdonalds and Hotel on the Park but do expect to pay over the odds. A large amount of the hotels are the Regency architecture itself and some of the rooms you can stay in are highly luxurious. Bed and Breakfast rooms are also in abundance if you have a lighter budget but I would highly recommend a stay in one of the nicer hotels (there is such competition from the hoteliers that bargains can be had from the internet, buy one night get another free etc). There are probably too many hotels in Cheltenham for most of the year but that is because the Hoteliers make a killing during the racing in March and can afford to have empty rooms and make a loss at other times. Alternatively there are many holiday cottages on the outskirts of town which can be hired and could be a better bet if your a family or someone seeking a bit more peace and quiet.
~SHOPPING~
All of the top names are based in Cheltenham and it is an excellent town to spend an afternoon seeking some bargains. The shopping mall in Regent Arcade houses the famous Wishing, Fishing Clock an unusual creation that hangs from the ceiling. The plusher area of town has plenty of specialist shops, boutiques, fashion designers and antiques which give the town a varied and cultured feel. The shops themselves are buried in between the architecture complete with fountains, squares, gardens and statues. Further out of town lies the Beechwood malls and also a massive Waitrose supermarket.
~NIGHTLIFE AND EATING OUT~
Cheltenham is one of the largest towns in the area and with a large amount of students nearby in Gloucester the town has become a magnet for the reveller much like any other English town thesedays it would seem. Within a mile radius there would be at least a hundred licensed premises, too much in my view, but then again all appear to be packed to the rafters. I do remember an unusual gothic style building with burning pyres outside but forget the name off the top of my head. Wetherspoons, Hogshead and other chains are located centrally although some of the more pleasant and quiter public houses lie in the backstreets.
Cheltenham is well served by it's range of restaurants. We had a superb Chinese in the Mayflower and Valentine meal in Sirocco where the food was delicious and beautifully prepared. I saw many Italians, Indians and French establishments among others. Some of the restaurants are very over-priced such as Storyteller and Sacre Fleur and it's wise to check the window menus before entering. Because there is a large amount of restaurants it's quite easy to walk in without the need to book.
~AFTER THOUGHTS~
My visit to Cheltenham was back in February so I've had time to think back and not let my opinion on it be tainted by the moment ! I thought the town was thriving, interesting, clean and beautiful. It is certainly a better bet as a destination than some other larger places which have disappointed me such as Cardiff, Liverpool and Manchester. I would recommend a weekend there to anybody wishing a few days away from it all. You can stay in Cheltenham itself, enjoy the sights and shopping or use it as a base to explore the delightful Cotswolds. Cheltenham isn't exactly cheap being a fashionable town but bargains and value can be snapped up if you look hard enough.
==========================
WormThatTurned 2004
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Advantages: Clean trains and stations, effieient, reliable, great prices, friendly staff, an example to set to other operators Disadvantages: Could do with some nice, new trains, more carriages on Cardiff-Portsmouth service sometimes needed
Graham_D 19.05.2004 ·
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