Chester in General

Chester is a historic walled city that lies tucked away in the west corner of the county of Cheshire. Cheshire (for those that don't know) is part of the Northwest region of England (just above Wales and a mere stones throw from the midlands). Rather tiny and unassuming; what Chester lacks in physical size is compensated by the huge amount of people that try to cram into its tiny streets. I have lived in Chester for a few years, in which time I have ...
...territory of 'the Cornovii tribe'. Chester main function was to assist the 20th legion with the suppression of Queen Boadicea and her fiendish Icini hordes; who had dared to revolt against Roman rule.

The 20th legion knew their enemy's reputation well and heavily fortified their position: making use of Chester's abundant resources. The Icini were a particularly nasty bunch of un-civilised barbarians, who severely disliked Roman rule ... more

Chester is a historic walled city that lies tucked away in the west corner of the county of Cheshire. Cheshire (for those that don't know) is part of the Northwest region of England (just above Wales and a mere stones throw from the midlands). Rather tiny and unassuming; what Chester lacks in physical size is compensated by the huge amount of people that try to cram into its tiny streets. I have lived in Chester for a few years, in which time I have learnt a great deal about its people, history and soul. I hope the below guide will impart to the reader: some small part of my enthusiasm for this most archetypal of quaint English cities

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As with all great tales, it would be best to start at the beginning. Chester's heroic beginnings date all the way back to around AD70. It is hard to appreciate Chester's great heritage without first knowing of its ancient origins.

AD70 was a time of huge turmoil in Britain and it was not uncommon for the local barbarian tribes to get a bit frisky. The 20th Legion (or Valeria Victrix) constructed a mighty fortress on the banks of the river Dee, in the territory of 'the Cornovii tribe'. Chester main function was to assist the 20th legion with the suppression of Queen Boadicea and her fiendish Icini hordes; who had dared to revolt against Roman rule.

The 20th legion knew their enemy's reputation well and heavily fortified their position: making use of Chester's abundant resources. The Icini were a particularly nasty bunch of un-civilised barbarians, who severely disliked Roman rule and liked nothing more than a good pillaging session. However although the Icini were fierce and terrible they were defiantly not the sharpest Pilums in the pack.

The final Battle between the Icini and the Romans was an unprecedented victory: 80,000 Icini died to a Roman death toll of only 400; which makes the battle of Manduessum one of the bloodiest slaughters in history. Queen Boadicea narrowly escaped the battle, but only to poison her self several days later in a local hovel.

After the Icini revolt was crushed; Chester (or Deva as it was then called) developed swiftly from a Roman fort into a thriving trading post. Its wide port and border position made Deva one of the most strategic positions in the empire. Things went well, and Deva flourished until most of the Roman Garrison moved North to help with the construction of the Hadrianic and Antonine frontiers.

Eventually, domestic issues forced the Roman legions to leave Britian to its own devices. Left high and dry by its founders, Chester like many roman settlements fell pray to Viking raiding parties and was sacked several times by loutish, brawling; Danish types. The Saxons, also fond of marauding and pillaging; sacked Chester several times, causing the city to become virtually derelict.

The period that followed became known as the dark ages due to the lack of knowledge we have of this era. This is probably due to the fact that everyone was to busy being pillaged or out marauding to record history. Most historians where probably seen as 'batty boys' during this time of high adventure and general chaos.

Later on around 907, Saxon marauders found them selves being pillaged by the even more blood thirsty barbarians 'the Vikings'. Aethelflaed, or 'Lady of the Mercian's' (who at the time was a kind of barbarian queen) decided to use Chester as a kind of buffer against Danelaw and Irish Sea Vikings.

It's about this time that the churches of Saints Peter and Paul (the future Cathedral) were built. Christianity was brought to Britain with the Romans and gained a very early foothold in Chester. It is rumoured that the walls of Chester Cathedral are so thick, that the mortar holding them together is still wet in places.

It is interesting to note, that Chester was in fact part of the Welsh territory of Powys until it was absorbed into Mercia (middle Britain) in the 7th century (not a lot of people know that!). Around 924 Chester decided to join the Welsh revolt against English rule; however this was quickly subdued by a rather upset Edward the Elder. This was the first of many ill chosen alliances that would leave Chester in smouldering ruins.

Despite Aethelflaed's efforts, in 980 Chester was very badly ravaged by the Dains, who had not yet given up with their dreams: of settling the northwest of England. Rather ironically, Earl Uhtred of Northumbria then ravaged Chester because its men failed to repulse the mighty Viking invaders.

Later in 1066, The Norman's, (who had just celebrated their victory over Britains Saxon king) soon realised Chester's potential. Hugh the Wolf (or Lupus the wolf), First Earl of Chester, nephew of William the Conqueror, built his castle within the walls of Chester. Obviously this required a modest amount of pillaging and sacking, and so Chester was once again put to the sword. It is a sad fact that the city of Chester was one of the first strongholds to fall to the Normans (probably due to some French trickery). Being extremely well connected in both England and France, and despite having a slightly camp name; Hugh's presence breathed live into Chester's old bones. Of course Chester was only down to its bones because he had recently ravaged it, that's French logic for you.

Things settled down for a while under Norman rule until about 1400 when the Welsh started to get a bit out of hand (probably got upset with munching garlic flavoured snails). In 1403 Henry, Prince of Wales issued a decree to expel all the Welsh from Chester. This decree rather understandably upset the Welsh and caused all manner of trouble. Dubious laws still exist today in Chester, that state any welsh person within the walls of Chester after midnight may be shot with a cross bow. However a word of caution, shooting people with crossbows is now very frowned upon by the local authorities.

By the middle Ages, Chester had once again become a great port serving France, Scotland, Ireland and Spain. Henry VIII was a big fan of Chester and granted a charter in 1541 that made Chester a bishopric. It was during this era, that Chester famous rows were constructed. Chester's 'mystery plays' were first showed around this time, including a re enactment of the whole life of Christ taken from the bible. The mystery plays are still performed to this day, although the next billing is in early 2008.

Unfortunately, Henry VIII support of Chester was cast aside during the great reformation of the church. Again Chester awoke to the sound of angry mobs rampaging through the street as Henry the VIII's army put all the major Churches and Convents to the torch.

Around 1600 a disaster of a different nature struck, as the river Dee began to silt up. This killed sea trade and seriously crippled Chester's economy. Just as Chester's residents thought things couldn't get any worse, the English civil war broke out tearing the country apart at the seams.

Chester allied with royalist forces; this was of course a very bad idea as Chester had a knack for picking the loosing team in these matters. After being put to siege on and off to for two whole years, Chester's starving population were forced to surrender to parliamentarian forces.

Amazingly during all this conflict, sacking and pillaging, fire and plague Chester's Roman walls remained in tact. However during the Middle Ages certain bits were added such as towers and battlements. It was not until the 1700's that Chester walls no longer needed for defence were converted into walkways. It was during the 1700's that many of Chester historical buildings were restored to their former glory.

The industrial revolution once again revived Chester, brining industry, Canals and railways. In 1688 the first Chester printed book, the 'Academy of Armoury', is published. In 1817 Chester famous Roodee racecourse was established, and the first grand stand was erected. It is interesting to note that Chester racecourse is built over the silted up old port of Deva. In 1866, the last public execution in Chester took place at the high cross in the centre of the city.

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Chester tale is one of great tragedy; not only as it been pillaged countless times, it's been struck by 4 major natural disasters. The population of Chester suffered 2 great devastating fires; the Black Death and the silting of its life line the river Dee. Its prime location put Chester in the forefront of conflict for almost two thousand years, yet it remains one of the most beautiful and complete historical cities in England.

Once you understand were Chester comes from, it's easier to understand and enjoy the many facets it has to offer to the humble traveller.

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Chester although small in stature, is big in heart. For tourists and local residents alike, Chester has much to offer:

The walls of Chester - This is the biggest feature of Chester city centre, a 2.5 mile roman fortress wall that encircles the entire city centre. Despite its rampaged history, it is one of the most complete roman walls in our country. Although rich with roman authenticity, it is clear to the observer that the wall has been adapted over the ages to suit Chester's changing needs. The wall has liberally scattered information placards, documenting in fascinating detail the colourful history of each segment of the wall.
The wall's walkway is almost a self-contained tour of Chester, on which you will pass every major historical part of the city.

Cathedral - Dating back to the dark ages, Chester Cathedral is a gothic beauty that towers over Chester like a colossus. For a small donation we are allowed entry - to peruse its chambers and cloisters. The Cathedral is very much full of life, with royal weddings, graduation ceremonies and grand concerts; being a regular occurrence. Although the original bells were removed for conservation purposes, they have been re-housed in a tower within the cathedral grounds and can be heard tolling regularly.
The Cathedral has a large well-maintained garden; which also serves at times of remembrance as a war memorial. The garden is open to the public; although constantly busy, is a place of tranquillity within a busy city.
The cathedral has a quaint café, which is the original dining room, used by the monks when the cathedral functioned as a monastery.

The Amphitheatre - A stark reminder of Chester's Roman origins. Although only half excavated: there is a renewed effort to excavate the area surrounding the fighting pit. Between April and June this year, archaeologists from all over the country can be seen painstakingly pawing over this marvel of ancient Rome. Although probably never used for gladiatorial combat, Chester's amphitheatre has definitely seen bloody days.
It is one of the most impressive and complete amphitheatres in this country; a must see for history buffs.

The Roman Gardens - These are the original roman gardens; thought to have been used by the Garrisons Apothecary. It has been reconstructed, using the original stone work and planted with fauna in a historically accurate way. Again, the public are free to enter and peruse as desired, but beware the Gouranga monks who often tend to pounce on tourists with smooth tongues and 'free' cd's.

The Park - This is a large common ground; really well maintained with constant pruning and planting. It serves the same purpose as any other inner city park: places for people to go to chill out, play, and picnic. The park is quite small, compared to cities like Leicester etc, but it is perhaps more refined in appearance.
A quirky little attribute to the park is a children's railway that runs throughout the park, throughout the summer.

The Races - The Chester Races is a horseracing event; that occurs frequently throughout the summer. People flock from all over, dressed up to the nines, get drunk and can be quite loutish. At the time of these events, the whole city comes to a virtual stand still and is a general pain in the rear to the locals.
It has to be acknowledged, that all who attend have a fabulous time and some serious money can be made on betting.

The River Dee - The River is an extension of the city and the park; with bars, cafes and restaurants spread along the riverside. This is an area of outstanding natural beauty and plenty of wildlife; which is meticulously maintained. There are boat tours: rowing boats and pedal boats to hire, during the summer months. There is often live music and many ice cream stands - the river has a real sense of relaxation and an all round great atmosphere.
Alongside the opposite bank of the river, accessible by one of the first suspension bridges ever built - there is another walkway leading to Chester meadows: a large serene open space, from where you can watch from a distance, the hustle and bustle of Chester (watch out for the bullocks).

Shops - Although Chester is a small city in size; you can still find every major high street retailer. They are all in a relatively small spread; but Chester has a twist - 'The Chester rows'! Chester is multi-storey, having two levels of shops; Chester is the only city in Britain to have 'the rows' and is famous for it. As well as major high street shops, you have the smaller chain stores, the funky crazy shops that sell bizarre things and touristy shops selling Chester related products. Be sure to check out Armadillo for all your armoury needs or Rainforest for that taste of the exotic.

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Food and Drink - Chester has a wide range of places to eat and drink - from chip shops to hoity toity restaurants. Unusually the chip shops don't sell 'Pukka pies' they sell Holland's Pies instead. Holland's pie however cannot really be called pies as they resemble and taste like nothing other than eternal badness. For those used to larger cities, Chester's food offerings can seem rather slim. This however is an illusion, as bizarre food shops lurk alluringly about every corner. Most deliciously off all is the old fashioned pasty shop that sells the most phantasmagorial of tasty pasties. Sporting 2 McDonalds, a burger king and a KFC, fast food fatty fill-there-face-freaks wont be disappointed either,

Accommodation - Chester is full of places to stay, from prestigious hotels to iffy bed and breakfasts. Considering its a small city; there seems to be a vast number of guest houses - largely due to the races; which literally attracts thousands upon thousands of visitors each summer. If you're ever thinking of coming to Chester for the races, book well ahead as even the most screty of hostels will be booked up.
The Grosvenor hotel was the first hotel to open in Chester and is by far the most impressive place to stay; with doormen dressed in top hat and tails and its silver service restaurant: its standards are above the norm - be aware, its high standards are matched only by its high prices.

Chester Zoo- Wow Wee Chester zoo is a marvel. Tigers, Lions, Jaguars and monkeys, everything you could ever want from a Zoo will be given to you. Make sure you get to see the twilight zone, where fruit bats (like the ones from the wine gums advert) swoop blindly about your very ears. If you're a fan of giraffes or Elephants or Rhinos come here, they have loads of them.

Nightlife - What life? Chester is a place that still thinks Braniggans and Rosies (I cant even spell it) is cool, nuff said. Once upon a time, the northwest was a clubbers heaven, but since Cream in Liverpool closed its doors; things have gone down hill (vertically). However if you're slightly posher than the regular clubber type, Chester has much to offer in the way of exclusive pubs and suit and tie clubs. If you're a little camp, here in Chester; you will be welcomed by, no less than two gay bars. Kids are well catered for by the remarkable laser quest, a place that dawn's from an era in which children still had imaginations and a chance of outliving their parents.

Appearance - Chester looks very historic, crammed full of listed 1700 - 1800 period; mottle and daub buildings, it has quaint cobbled streets and lots of secret alley's that spit you out in weird and wonderful places. The Chester rows add a unique dimension, with shops and restaurants stacked on top of each other - the first time I saw Chester, it reminded me of the galley of a ship. Because of Chester ancient Roman layout, its streets are very narrow. This can see quiet quaint until you find yourself crammed into a corner surrounded by Japanese tourists in full-blown photo-frenzy. Chester is always very clean and in fact has won awards for being the cleanest city in England

Living in Chester - Thinking of moving to the northwest? Don't. You wont find a job as the economy is geared mostly to tourism and mining (which doesn't happen anymore). This may be the reason why the area is quiet poor. Chester (as far as I am concerned) is a last bastion of light in an otherwise dark and gloomy northwest. Wales on the other hand is as resplendent as ever, it's people friendly and its sheep paranoid.

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Overall Chester has a lovely atmosphere and has remarkable character; the majority of people are very nice and friendly, making it an agreeable place to be.
It is a beautiful city, which is very proud of its history and presents the history majestically. Chester also has many museums dedicated to its history that employ people to provide tours; dressed up in full roman gear; thus adding a quirky touch to Chester's character.
Chester is a huge tourist attraction during the summer, attracting visitors from all over the world. During the summer months its streets are cram packed with tourists. Traversing its centre is quite a skill.
Chester's large and well-kept park becomes awash with floral colour and scent from early April till late August. Its river becomes packed with activity and life - in general, Chester is a very uplifting place to be in the summer months.
In winter Chester is a quiet and warm city, offering its residents a wealth of high street shops and entertainment. Decorated for Christmas; Chester looks stunning and its character is enhanced.
Chester seems tiny compared to many other cities, yet still manages to contain within its confines everything you could ever need. Chester is an indubitably charismatic place, full of grandeur, character and warmth - I have come to view Chester as my home and I love it.

 

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