Introduction I've read through most of the reviews on Beijing, but having lived in Beijing for ten years, first as a student, then working, I wanted to give a more personal and in-depth view. I hope that this will help to guide anyone that is planning to visit Beijing in the near future. If you are planning to go, then the first thing that you should do is buy a copy of the Lonely Planet Guide to China - I think there is even one that concentrates on Beijing - this provides invaluable information on places to viist, how to get around the city and has a language guide for emergencies.
Getting there A number of airlines fly to Beijing. I recommend Air China, which is cheap, clean and direct. BA is frankly over-priced and Virgin Atlantic flies only to Shanghai. Shop around, prices can vary enormously from travel agent to travel agent.
The food I hear so many people come back from China complaining about the food.The trouble is that most people visit Beijing as part of a tour and therefore have to rely on their guides for food. Certain restaurants are targetted for tourists and unfortunately tend to provide banquet-style food as a mark of respect. Banquet-style food usually includes unusual dishes that don't really suit the western palate, such as chicken's feet and pig's trotters. Everyday Chinese food though is fantastic. There are many types of Chinese cuisine, probably the most famous of which is spicy Sichuan food, and all can be found in Beijing, but the most common type of restaurant is what in Chinese is called home style cooking. This includes a bit of all cuisines. I recmmend to anyone going to Beijing - dump the guide, walk into any restaurant that takes your fancy, and order by either pointing at dishes on other tables or use the food guide in the Lonely Planet. It will be worth it. Don't worry too much about levels of hygiene - they are no longer that bad and the worst that will happen to you is an upset stomach. If you really can't stand Chinese food, then there are many western restaurants, especially in the Sanlitun and Houhai areas. There is even a fish and chip shop run by three Chinese men with English wives. Don't tip - the service charge is included in the price.
Hotels There are a number of four and five star hotels in Beijing, all at international levels and prices. If you need to book your own hotel, then the Kerry Centre Hotel, the China World, the Wangfu Hotel and the Shangrila Hotel are all excellent, although the last is rather too far away from most attractions. For those looking for cheaper accommodation, the Lonely Planet has a long list. There is a youth hostel in the Sanlitu area, which is cheap and clean.
Things to do There is plenty to do in Beijing. Most tours will arrange trips to the main attractions; but if you are not on a tour, then you should particularly aim for the Forbidden City, The Summer Palace, the Temple of Heaven, Tiananmen Square, the Lama Temple, the hutongs (alleyways) in the Houhai area and of course the Great Wall. Try to get to the Simatai section of the Great Wall, rather tha the Badaling Section - the views are absolutely stunning from the top. There is quite a climb, so not for the unfit or elderly. All of the places except the Great Wall are within the city proper - you'll need at least an hour and a half to two hours to reach the Great Wall. Peking Opera is also worth seeing if you get the chance, although it is not easy on the ears.
There is an active nightlife in Beijing. Foreigners and many Chinese flock to Sanlitun and Houhai. Any hotel will be able to point you in the right direction.
For shopping head for Qianmen and Wangfujing. There is also a pearl market near the east gate to the Temple of Heaven.
Climate The best time of year to visit is September. The summer months are too hot (up to 40 degrees), the winter months are too cold (well below zero). If you can't make September or the first part of October, try April and May. By June, the heat is overwhelming, although air conditioning is widely available.
Language Despite common opinion, Chinese is actually not that difficult to learn to speak (writing is another story). A few basic phrases will go a long way to good will. Most Chinese people don't speak English, so if you decide to go off on your own, best to take theLonely Planet or a phrasebook with you.
Money The Chinese renminbi (literally the People's money) or yuan is a soft currency and as such, you'll need to wait until arriving in China to change money. There are currently approximately 15 renminbi to the pound. There are very few coins, most of the money is notes, the most expensive of which is a 100 renminbi note.The cost of living is still relatively low, although as a tourist, you will probably be charged top prices.
Getting around Transportation is easy, provided that you have where you want to go written down. Taxis are probably the best bet, they are very cheap, but note that few drivers speak English, although many are now forced to learn in the run-up to the Olympic Games in 2008. Buses and the underground are even cheaper to use, but can be difficult without knowledge of Chinese.
Medical care This is excellent, although can be expensive. There are hospitals and clinics especially for foreigners, where English is the common language; some Chinese hospitals also have departments for foreigners. Chinese hospitals are fine, just a little basic and over-crowded.
Dangers and annoyances 1) Spitting. The Chinese, many of whom smoke, spit all the time. This can take some getting used to. 2) Staring. If you are non-Asian in appearance, like me, you will get stared at. This can be uncomfortable, but don't take it as an insult - it is just curiosity. The Chinese love children and may try to touch your child, particularly if blonde. 3) Pick-pockets. Not as common as in the west, but foreigners are presumed to be rich and may be targetted. 4) Beggars. There are a number of gangs running scams. This usually involves women and children, none of whom actually get the money, but the gang leaders become very rich. Don't make them even richer. 5) Pollution. Levels are very high, although the authorities are working to control it for the Olympic Games.
Living in China If you are planning to live in China, the experience can be very rewarding. Ithink it is all the more rewarding if you learn to speak the language, so you can more than get by. One important thing to note is that if you go out to look for a job, you will have to get a tourist visa, which needs to be renewed every few months. This means that you are not legally entitled to stay anywhere but a hotel, which can be expensive. Far better to find the job before going out.
Conclusion I could write a book about Beijing, but I think this will have to do for now. If anyone has questions, I'd be happy to try and answer. Beijing is a fascinating place with friendly people and lots of charm. I recommend that anyone visiting will read up about China before they go to get a feel for what it will be like - of course it is not perfect, where is?, but going with the right expectations is important.
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