I loved Chinatown. The first thing that struck me when I left the MRT station were the colours. It's so bright but not at all gaudy - I didn't think anyway.
If you leave Chinatown MRT station by (I think) exit A you walk into Pagoda Street, a street full of shops, restaurants, people and history. This street is where most of money went. The shops have some really good bargains and if you can ignore the constant attention of the sales assistants you should have a great time looking through all the different wares for sale. I bought a gorgeous cashmere shawl for £5 here which is probably my bargain of the decade. Buying souvenirs here is also a good idea because you have so many choices from the usual holiday souvenirs to elaborately decorated snuff bottles, Chinese scroll paintings, Chinese horoscope bits and bobs, jade jewellery and feng shui compasses.
I did a walking tour here with a company called The Original Singapore Walks who do different tours every day of the week in all the different areas of Singapore. If you want to learn about some of Singapore's history that the guide books don't tell them then turn up for a tour with them. Tours take about 2 hours and cost about £6.50. Pick up one of their leaflets from just about anywhere for more information. I did a tour called The Red Lantern Tour which looks at the seedier side of Chinatown. You learn about the history, the prostitutes, the slaves and the murders. It's fascinating stuff that really helps to bring Chinatown more to life.
If you do go to Chinatown then make sure you visit the Chinatown Heritage Centre. It's very close to the MRT station and is located in three restored shophouses. It's a fascinating museum with fabulous reconstructions that really help to further your understanding of the area. At less than £3 to get in it really is good value for money. The exhibits are incredibly well-done so that even children or history haters should enjoy themselves. An entire shophouse has been turned into a shophouse that represents how the early Chinese migrants would have lived - one kitchen and toilet for several families. Not nice but definitely worth seeing. The first-hand accounts and artefacts were really interesting. Other areas of the centre explain about opium addictions, the societies that existed and a typical room of a lady of the night has been wonderfully reconstructed.
There are plenty of temples in Chinatown too. Thian Hock Keng Temple, about a 15 minute walk from the MRT station, is the oldest Hokkien temple and you'll be dazzled by the gold, life-size paintings and models and the wonderful incense smell. If you visit be sure to look at the ceiling because it's decorated with the most intricately carved pictures and models. Sri Mariamman Temple is the oldest Indian temple in Singapore. It's based in Chinatown because Singapore was originally split into areas for the Malays, Chinese and Indians by Raffles. The land-reclaiming done since has really changed Singapore so that to the modern visitor things seem out of place. This temple is bright and very colourful and as it's free to enter then definitely go for a look but if you want to take photos then you have to pay £1.
If you wander around Chinatown then you'll find a plethora of cafes, restaurants, bars and art galleries. It really is quite a nice walk as well. I used the Lonely Planet walking tour as a guide but it's easy to find your way around.
For some traditional Chinese entertainment then listen out for the Chinese operas that are regularly performed or head to the opera house - very small and informal but great to see. Ask anybody in a shop for directions. You can also have your name written in Chinese characters as you wait for less than £5 or buy a pre-written one for less than £3. Chinese tea ceremonies are wonderful to witness too - very calming.
The Chinese do make up the largest proportion of Singaporeans so I know it's been argued that everywhere is a type of Chinatown but I really don't think it's the case. Chinatown is still the hub of Chinese life and history and Chinatown more than anywhere else makes me want to return to Singapore.
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