Clermont-Ferrand, in the Auvergne region of central France, is known as the home of Michelin tyres, but the city has much more too offer. Its history stretches back centuries, and it is located in the midst of some of the most beautiful and overlooked countryside in the whole of France. If you’ve ever looked at the picture of green volcanoes on the side of a Volvic bottle - that’s what you can see from any decent viewpoint in Clermont-Ferrand.

The ancient city
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Clermont-Ferrand has an ancient history as a religious centre. Pope Urbain II preached a crusade from here, and the huge black volcanic rock cathedral dominates the city centre. Beautiful, simple Roman churches are a feature of the Auvergne and there is a wonderful example within the city centre, the church of Notre-Dame du Port. Around the churches there grew up a higgledy-piggeldy labyrinth of streets lined with ancient buildings, and these are now a delightful maze of antique shops, antiquarian and second hand bookshops and other quirky emporiums. Highlights include the chocolatiers where you can watch them making beautiful and delicious confectionery, the doll factory where there are heads and bodies lined up in the window, and the tiny art galleries. There are two very good heritage trails to walk marked by metal plaques set into the pavement - you can get the guides to these, in English, from the tourist information centre.

Surprisingly for a student city, there is not much nightlife. At John Barleycorn’s, an ‘Irish’ pub near the Cathedral, you can buy expensive drinks and meet every English student in the city, but there are far better, more French, bars to be found if you explore. There you can drink pastis and talk about philosophy or politics late into the night...if that’s your thing. There are a couple of cheesy nightclubs, of which Gasoil is probably the best, but it can be unbearably sweaty, as it is the basement of a bar.

The surrounding countryside
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Make sure you get out into the surrounding countryside of the Auvergne. It might be best to hire a car, as public transport is severely limited outside the city. A classic is the climb up the Puy-de-Dome - one of the highest volcanoes in the region and the venue for a stage of the Tour de France some years ago. The climb is hard work but the views are great - you can see one sixth of the total area of France from the top. You may also be treated to the sight of parachutists and paragliders leaping from or landing on the peak. The nearby Puy de la Vache and the Puy de Come also have good walks. If you can drive off into the Massif Central do - there are some beautiful roads and towns to explore, and dramatic mountain scenery all around. Try visiting Orcival, Le Mont-Dore, Volvic or Vichy (seat of the French government that collaborated with the Germans in WWII).

Clermont-Ferrand is well worth a visit. There are relatively few tourists, the climate is pleasant and the scenery beautiful. There is plenty to do - I lived there for a year and didn’t get bored!