Colonia del Sacramento

I visited Colonia Del Sacremento (Uruguay) as a day trip from Buenos Aires in January 2010. Colonia is situated in the south of Uruguay and has earned UNESCO status for its historic significance as a city of strategic importance in the battles between the Portuguese settlers and the Spanish invaders. What has resulted is a charming little town which preserves the Portuguese and Spanish influences in a wonderful fusion of cultures.

***Getting there***

We got to Colonia from Buenos Aires on the Buquebus ferry where we left at 0845 and arrived in Colonia at 10am. We did take the express ferry which cost $152 (one way), as opposed to the 3 hour ferry which cost slightly less at $107. When we got to the Buquebus terminal we had to go through immigration where we received a free tourist visa (90 days) and moved through swiftly into the departure lounge. The Buquebus terminal and the ferry itself were perfectly efficient and comfortable - and more importantly the ferry departed and arrived on time. The ferry has panoramic windows and so its possible to see the port areas and the city skyline as you're departing, and the prettiness of the Uruguayan coast as we arrived in Colonia. Between the two ports there isn't a lot to see - except the sea.

***To have a guide or not?***

On arrival at the Colonia terminal we were confronted with a million guides who were offering to show us around. However, as the ferry was expensive, we had already decided to wander around ourselves and explore Colonia without the aid of a guide. To be honest, Colonia is such a small little town that you don't need a guide and you don't need any transportation as long as you're relatively fit. Colonia is a very safe town with an incredibly low crime rate and so you can safely wander around day and night without fear of the muggings you may have to be wary of across the water!

The centre of Colonia Del Sacremento is only about 10 minutes walk from the ferry port and is easy to find. There are maps available at the ferry terminal and so grab one on your way out.

***The charm of Colonia***

Colonia is without doubt one of the prettiest and charming little towns I have ever come across. You would be forgiven for thinking you were in a rural village in the heart of Europe rather than in South America, as well as feeling like you've been transported back three or four hundred years to a time when life was simpler.

The streets are cobbled, the houses single level and colourful, the cars (not that there are many) are vintage - and the ambience is one of peace and tranquility. The contrast between being here and Buenos Aires is about as marked as its possible to be. It feels like life goes on without any care or hurry and that you could sit here and contemplate the more important things in life while sipping a glass of wine and watching the world go by at a slow pace.

Everything about this town feels old and historic - and yet it still manages to feel fresh and unstuffy. In all respects it is "perfect". I've heard some people complain that it is "too perfect", that it is too preserved, that it is too protected - but I've never heard of anything as rubbish in my life as someone complaining that a historic town is too perfect and too preserved. There is nothing plastic or unauthentic about this town, and the fact that its a UNESCO site and therefore protected from tourist developments can only be a positive thing! I wish more places were like this and we could preserve some places for the beauty that made them popular in the first place.

Yes, its true that Colonia has a lot of tourists that visit as a day trip from Buenos Aires and from other places in Uruguay, but to be honest, this really doesn't detract from its charm. Tourists get here and they seem to take on the pace of Colonia and so there is no rushing around - just meandering, relaxing and quiet contemplation.

***Things to see and do***

Well, what we found was that the best thing to do was simply to wander. Don't come with a fixed itiniery of things that you have to tick off, but just take your time to explore. Like I said, its a small town and a day is plenty of time to explore the main area - and you can do so on foot without a map or a guide.

Having said that there are a few things around that are worthy of highlighting as worthy of your time.

EL FARO (the lighthouse) stands at the end of the headland and dates back to 1857. It is worth climbing up to the top as it gives you a good view over the whole of Colonia and towards its beaches and coast. However, if you're at all claustraphobic (as I am) it may be worth staying at the bottom as the spiral staircase that leads you up is pretty tight.

PUERTA DE CAMPO is the drawbridge which stands at the beginning of the historic centre and fortifications.

CASA NARACELLO is worth dipping into for 20 minutes or so as its a period colonial house which has been beautifully preserved. To be honest, I love being in the outside and so I wouldn't suggest spending long in here, but it is worth having a quick look.

CALLE DE LOS SUSPIROS (Street of Sighs) is the oldest street in Colonia and is a very short cobbled street with buildings either side. To say this street is "cobbled" is not really describing the condition of the road at all....but walking down it is an experience. Although the buidlings are beautifully preserved, many of them now house gallerys and craft shops at the higher end of the price range.

IGLESIA MATRIZ: the oldest church in Uruguay is simple yet charasmatic in its simplicity and authenticity.

There are many restaurants and local bars (no chains!!) and part of the experience is to grab a seat and just chill-ax. Most dining is done al fresco and although its fairly expensive in South American terms, it really isn't going to break the bank. I recommend Parrilla del Barrio restaurant for a laid back ambiance with good food.

There are many little boutique shops, galleries, craft shops etc. dotted around where you can pick up an original gift or two. They're not cheap but they are original and well made and so, in my opinion, worth it.

***Overall***

This is a charming town which really opened up my eyes to the possibility of traveling within Uruguay, a place that I had not really considered before. I would say that its the perfect location for a day trip as you can get there from BA in about an hour to arrive at 10am and return around 10pm after a full day there. In retrospect I wish we'd opted to spend the night there, but as we were staying at The Four Seasons in BA, we simply had to get back to our luxury!