Como (Italy)

Just a few miles south of the Swiss border, Como is the first town in Italy. Very different in style and culture to Italy's thriving cities, Mediterranean holiday resorts and antique sights, Como exudes the mild charm of Lombardy region.

I was a bit surprised myself when I realised that I hadn't written anything yet on Ciao about one of my favourite countries, Italy. So when famous Ciaoer Connaisseur_Haggler said she was going to nearby Milano two weeks ago, I decided it was time I introduced the northern Italian region of Lombardy, and its pearl, Como.

Como is two things in one - the city of Como, and the Lago di Como (lake). It is not really a holiday destination for itself, but a place which you shouldn't miss when you are nearby.

1) Como is ideal for a day trip or weekend getaway from Milan, if you want to escape hectic life and tourist crowds in the city on a holiday or business trip. From Milano, Como is less than half an hour away by car or train.

2) When travelling to Italy by car, Como is the first stop behind the border, on the A9 motorway Belinzona-Milano. Even if only for a few hours' break, it is worth making a stop at Como on your way into Italy. This is best combined with another stop at the Swiss city and lake of Lugano, around 20 miles north of Como.

3) Como is a popular venue for international conferences and meetings, hosted in the palaces in Como and around the lake.

4) If you are a wine lover and considering a wine tour around Lombardy and Piedmont, Como is a good place to extend your trip for another day of relaxation.

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The City of Como
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Street life in Como evolves around small streets and alleys which are filled with small shops, many of them fashion outlets of famous Italian designers. I find Como most enjoyable around its squares - it is beautiful to sit over a cappuccino and a good book on Piazza Cavour, Piazza Volta or Piazza del Duomo, and look at the picturesque classicist facades, or if you prefer, at the no less picturesque Italian Bellas who pass by.

Como is mainly classicist in architecture. The whole seaside is covered by palaces built in the 18th century, each of them fantastic to look at and a dream to live in - many of them are now top hotels. An important sight is the Tempio Volta, a museum for the physicist Alessandro Volta who was born in Como. There are also a couple of buildings in romanic architecture, including San Fedele Basilica and Palazio Broletto, a former court hall. The cathedral (Duomo) was built in Renaissance style in the 15th and 16th century.

But Como is not really a place for sightseeing, there are better places for that in Italy. Como is best enjoyed strolling along the lakeside, catching the views of the lake, the surrounding mountains and the palaces in front.

If you have a spare afternoon, it is well worth the time to take the "Funiculare" cable car to the upper city. From here you can go hiking in the hills and enjoy spectacular views of the whole Lago di Como with its towns Menagio and Belagio. The panoramic view reaches as far as to the peaks of the Swiss Alps and is missed - luckily - by the tourists who flock Piazza Cavour but don't make their way up here.

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Insider Tip: Cadenabbia
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To insiders, Cadenabbia is known as the Riviera of the Azalea, due to its extensive private parks with azalea flowers (come here in May!). Cadenabbia is a village on the western shore of Lago di Como, around 20 miles northeast of Como (busses go every hour). It is full of private villas, many of which can be visited. The most beautiful estates are the palace Villa Carlotta (built 1747) and the Basilica and park of Saint Martin.

Cadenabbia's best kept secret, and one of Italy's most exclusive resorts, is Villa Collina, the former residence of the first German chancellor, Konrad Adenauer. Today it is owned by the Konrad Adenauer Foundation, and rooms can be rented by visitors. You need to book far in advance, as most of the year the Villa is reserved for conferences and political meetings. I attended a Board meeting of a European student organisation there back in 1996, and found the guest book full of Germany's and Europe's top politicians and CEOs. This is a place where the political and business elites gather for private meetings, far away from the attention of the tabloid press at home.

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Shopping
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Como is THE place to buy designer wear at affordable prices. Because Como is so near to Switzerland, it is a popular shopping destination for the Swiss, mainly for cloth and shoes. Nowhere else in Italy will you find original designer cloth so cheap. Versace, Kenzo, Armani, etc. etc. - they are all represented with small distinguished shops. Forget about the plagiaries offered at the beaches of the Riviera, in Como you get the originals cheaper than the fakes. Example: Kenzo ties which in the UK cost between 40 and 60 Pounds can be bought in Como for 15 to 20 Pounds.

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Food & Wine
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The Lombardian cuisine is dominated by meat dishes. In late summer and autumn they are served with yellow boletus (is there really no English word for this?) which grow all over the place. Lombardy is well known for its calf meat, but in the age of BSE and foot and mouth disease, its appeal has somewhat fainted.

As everywhere in the wine land Italy, some very nice wines can be found in Lombardy, mainly white. The major grapes in this region are Pinot Grigio and Pinot Bianco.

Although not directly from Lombardy, you MUST try the Barolo from neighbouring Piedmont region. Sommeliers (wine experts) around the world are absolutely hype about the wines from this grape. An international controversy has emerged about the Barolo: the traditional wineries extend the Barolo in Barique barrels, which makes it come pretty near the taste of a Cabernet Sauvignon. Young vineyard owners have stopped this practice and developed very distinguished Barolo wines, which are however less smooth and take longer to decompose the acid. Decide for yourself which way you prefer.

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WEBSITES
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www.lakeofcomo.com
www.lagodicomo.com
www.comocityguide.it

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© 2001 Hansjörg Gebel, Witten, Germany