Cordoba is a city I felt I knew even before I'd been; that's probably because it is home to some well-known historical sites and is a city that has made a big contribution to Spanish culture, most notably through the art of flamenco dancing and music. It is a city with a reputation of hot days and hot nights and there is nowhere that better encapsulates the many cultures that have contributes to the melting pot that is Andalusia.
When thinking about cross cultural relations today, particularly in Europe, one should perhaps point out that Jews, Muslims and Christians lived in (relative) harmony for several centuries in Cordoba; the city in general and some of its major sights in particular illustrate the impressions successive and co-existing cultures have had on Cordoba.
Cordoba was the "capital" of the Moorish kingdom of El-Andalus and the legacy of the Moors is everywhere; you see it in the coloured tiles around the doorway of white-washed homes through to the brilliantly named dishes on menus like "Moros y Christianos" - this is a classic dish of rice with black beans and translates as "Moors and Christians (as if you hadn't guessed).
THE MEZQUITA
The "Mezquita" started life as a mosque; at the time it was used it was the third biggest in the world and was a sumptuous place of worship. Not only is the visual effect with thousands of columns of onyx and marble impressive, but it is also notable that various components were "stolen" from the remains of other buildings and used in the construction of the Mezquita so you will see that the capitals at the top of the pillars are in fact Roman ones which have been recycled. Another oddity is that the mihrab (the alcove towards which prayer is made) does not point towards Mecca; the suggested reasons for this are diverse, I shall save the subject for a review focusing only on the Mezquita).
The Christians reconquered Cordoba in 1236 and the mosque was consecrated to become the cathedral of Cordoba. Over the years chapels have been built around the nave and the result is a mini museum showcasing the changing style of ecclesiastic design and symbolism.
THE ALCAZAR DE LOS REYES CRISTIANOS (Palace of the Christian Kings)
The Alcazar was built in 1328 and its keys features of interest are the remains of the Arabian baths and a series of Roman mosaics. The Alcazar was used as the Royal Place until Granada came into use and was also the site for the first permanent tribunal of the Spanish Inquisition under Ferdinand and Isabella. Unfortunately, the Alcazar is one of those sites that is so popular that it is difficult to pick a quieter time to visit. There is a charge for entry to the Alcazar and the gardens (these are beautiful, filled with wonderful scents and graceful fountains) but Fridays are free so bear that in mind if your trip includes a Friday.
LA JUDERIA
As you might suppose from the name, this is the old Jewish quarter, close to the Mezquita. Here tiny white houses line the narrow lanes, the best known is Calle de las Flores which is the scene every of a fierce competition in which the home owners compete for the honour of being declared the best house with the best "patio" (in Spanish houses this is an enclosed courtyard at the centre of the house). The Juderia is also the place to find some of Cordoba's best eating places; sea food is the order of the day but you should also be sure to try one of the cold soups such as gazpacho or salmorejo. A cold sherry should help wash it all down.
THE GUADALQUIVIR
Cordoba has always been an important port, initially making its wealth from olives; the river Guadalquivir has been at the heart of Cordoban commerce since Roman times and the impressive Puente Romano illustrates this. A walk along the river is highly recommended and there are some interesting buildings and monuments to be seen there as well as giving an alternative perspective on the city.
Elsewhere Cordoba has a wealth of museums and galleries devoted mainly to the colourful history of the region and to the arts that have become typical of the region. There is a bull-fighting museum and another dedicated to the art of flamenco; Cordoba is closely associated with flamenco with two well-known names - Joaquin Cortes and Paco Pena - hailing from the city. Many bars and restaurants host flamenco evenings but it pays to do some research and find out which are the best places to visit.
EATING AND DRINKING
I have already mentioned La Juderia as being a good area to seek out restaurants, though it can be quite expensive. Head out of town slightly if you want to keep an eye on the budget. Don't go mad ordering tapas, take it easy. When you arrive just order drinks and wait a short while to see whether some genuine tapas (that is - complimentary) is forthcoming; it often is.
If you are staying in a "hostal" you may have to find somewhere to eat breakfast; luckily some cafes have realized there is a market for breakfast and open up early to provide it. It usually consists of toast and drinking chocolate but a few offer a better variety.
Drinking outside bars in the side streets is quite common in summer right up until midnight; you don't get a seat however, you just squeeze inside, buy your drinks and drink them standing up outside. It's very popular, there is no trouble and people even bring their children along in their prams!
ACCOMMODATION
As you would expect, Cordoba has accommodation options running the full range from hostels, through pensions or "hostals" as they are known in Spanish, to top end international hotels. As someone who prefers to spend as little as possible on accommodation I can't really comment on the top end. In Cordoba, though, we found an exciting little hostal tucked away in the Juderia. It was a beautifully restored traditional house with a gorgeous patio that had a little fountain in the middle. The stairs were lined with ceramics from the region and our room had a teeny balcony overlooking the narrow lane. The cost - 40 Euro for two in an en suite room, with air-conditioning. If the room doesn't have air-con in summer in Cordoba, don't take it. You will have a miserable stay. Even at 11.00pm, the temperature was in the high 20s.
AND FINALLY…
If you visit in summer you should be prepared for very high temperatures; when we were there the early afternoon temperature topped 40 degrees for three consecutive days. Be sensible and wear sun protection, cover up when the sun is at its hottest, get indoors and have a long leisurely lunch and make sure you drink plenty of water. Sounds obvious but many people mistakenly think they'll be OK.
Cordoba is not the place for you if you do not enjoy walking. The main sites of interest are situated within walking distance of each other but cannot really be linked by bus since the buses do not run in the older parts of town. Furthermore, the old pavements, and sometimes cobblestones, are not ideal for everyone and wheelchair users might struggle in the narrow lanes that sometimes partially blocked by souvenir stalls.
Cordoba is not particularly cheap although there are ways you can save money, such as those I have already described. If I had to recommend one free thing to do in Cordoba it would be to go along to the main square in the early evening, dunk your tired and hot feet in one of the fountains and sit and watch the world go by…..
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