How can I pretend I'm still active after all this time?! Happy halloween.. and Christmas!! Lol. C...
How can I pretend I'm still active after all this time?! Happy halloween.. and Christmas!! Lol. Chrissie x X
Member since:23.11.2002
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Hello.
Somewhere between Boxing Day and New Years’- after the excesses of a busy, glut filled Christmas- eating,shopping,entertaining and all the preparations,I felt tired and in need of rejuvenation.I just wanted to escape to some secluded quiet and bautiful retreat. A place to recharge my batteries. Somewere by the coast most definitely. Somewhere in the country- or a mix if poss,between the two. Just for 3 or 4 days. I was really lucky- I got it.
CORNWALL AND MY IMPRESSIONS...
For several years,I’ve always wanted to visit Cornwall,and compare the Italian beaches with it- in particular,St Ives, Land’s End and Sennen Cove. I just become fascinated by the history and the interwoven stories and culture,and to discover some of the many coves and beaches of the far south western tip, is my idea of heaven,I loved it.
-To have the first bite of a Cornish pastie fulfilled my childhood wish. We grew fatter by the day gorging the clotted cream and scones, so we did a lot of walking...to walk up the coastal paths and countryside, and browse the expensive but beautiful locally produced craft shops and pottery.. attempt the rugged cliffs,follow the coastal paths and back again took us hours..Basil our dog enjoyed it immensely too. We saw the surfers ride the foam crested waves, and most of all- look over Lands End and imagine the chilly outlook if one was to fall right off the map into those dark and unpredictable stormy seas that had claimed so many sailors and fishermens’ lives.
Perhaps here we would catch a glimpse of a bottle nosed dolphin or 2 ? Unfortunately we didn't so I still haven't achieved my childhood desire to swimm with the dolphins oin the bay of sennen cove...I've only read about or seen fleetingly in travel programmes. I wanted to discover the secret historical magic that drew the ordinary people to its climes,and to see for myself the places where many of the successful artisits and musicians year after year return to this wild and rugged beauty spot to get their inspirations.
I wanted to browse the Tate Gallery in St Ives, and understand where the artists and muscians drew their inspiration for their works -unfortunately,we ran out of time and the kids would have been bored,so we didn’t go.That will have to be another story. another day..
To dream of relaxing in a hidden cove,climb the cliffs,and coastal paths, run the pure sand through my fingers and smell and taste the salt sea,on my face,listening to tales of pirates,and all the shipwrecks and things skulduggerish rebellious and celtic,mysterious,and beautiful was a childhood day dream of mine We spent many happy hours collecting pebbles, noting the conservation sights with their rare plants and flowers and discover all the little coves or at least what coves we could cram into a 3 day visit with the family, this had always been one of my unfulfilled wishes too. And we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. Of course this is always hard work,piloting the different needs/ age groups of the family;sorting the squabbles out and of course the unchartered unknown first journey -which took us 7 hours from Chelmsfordin Essex.but this was good timming especially as we had stopped twice to stretch our legs from the car. Also it was for the major part, traffic free and quite an adventure. From Essex you have the added bonus of course, to travel through Devon along the way; which after that, is more or less a straight road all the way down down and down the south west through the heart of the A30.
HOW DID I PERSUADE MY TEENAGED CHILDREN TO COME?
Knowing how my family love their home comforts, city life,the playstations,and mobile phones which were banned by me throughout the holidays (aren’t I cruel?!) I knew I’d need somewhere fairly central and accessible to all the amenties a Mc Donalds without the touristy noise and crowds thankyou,or the expensive tourist prices,whats more-we needed a large enough budget accommodation,that would also welcome our large german shepherd dog,- be close to the beach/countryside and yet be near enough to eating places/shops if we didn’t want to cook which happens when I’m at home-never mind on holiday,and to suit my city lover daughter. Logging onto the travel sites and cornwall offerings,it took me 2 days to sift through a very short list of possibilities. Self catering fishermens cottages by the river/sea that wouldn’t cost a bomb in the post xmas/New year’s period at short notice was perhaps an unrealistic option. Besides, no one had any vacancies.the popular season was fully booked up.
Blast! In despair I clicked on the last possible link and found a wonderful place with just the type of accommodation we were looking for.. It was based in the grounds of a blue and white painted 300 hundred year old Inn called: “The old Success Inn” which caters for anyone really. (or just passing through like us, for just the 3 nights.) This is nearly at the very end of the map and nearly the very end of the A30 . nestling on the top of a small hill, overlooking the wonderful clean,blue flag beach of Sennen Cove. ...and even more magic;just 1 mile from Lands End ! 1 mile within walking distance then. wow.
All of the afore mentioned hopes were satisfied-
SENNEN COVE: the Accommodation Apartment description,facilities,Tarriff etc…
We had an absolutely glorious time. I couldn’t have chosen a more relaxing,unspoiled,breathtaking view if I tried.
The Inn was an unpretentious modest sized stop over point for the pirates of old,dating back to the 1600’s with newly appointed 22 ensuite bedrooms one with 4 poster bed,with unrivalled sea views. In its grounds with a free car park, (very handy for us) this Inn owned the 3 separate self contained apartments. Ours was at the top of a small white washed stone stairway,on the first floor, where panoramic views and the sennen beach opposite side of the road were enjoyed. full double glazed windows made sure our privacy and warmth were catered for, where one could gaze for hours from the large master bedroom windows at the sweep of the bay. It is similar in quality,shape and cleanliness to piccolo Marina in Capri Italy-the sand was spotlessly clean,as was the water which glittered and had a turqoise green hue even when cloudy/dull weather.. Cliff rocks dotted the surroundings and boat trips 45 minutes for £10 per person (plus waterproofs/life jackets) in better weather are offered here. Some go to the lighthouse,others the ship wreck,or to Lands End. Or simply for just a jaunt around the beautiful bay. The sky,a violet blue to an angry slate grey on colder days, contrasts with the moments of sunshine reflecting off the white- foamed waves.. slapping and swirling. Lovely coastal footpaths and cliffs around here.
Dogs are banned in the April-september season of course,so Basil enjoyed the freedom and treat of being allowed here. (Another out of season treat!) I couldn’t get over the amount of Surfers willing to brace the chilling wind and the freezing water.we watched a lone person,greetedsome of the resident Senners and a family on holiday just like us with their dog.No crowds or racket,just the sound of the waves and wind. I loved Sennen Cove very much as it was so pretty and unspoiled. Just a few yards on the road away,there is a cafe,and a ten minute walk brings you to the "Round House"-a quaint old fishermans white washed building where theowner sells locally produced art,pottery crafts and gifts. There was a pretty thatched cottages in Sennen village just yards from the beach. Even a launderette fish and chip shop,and a closed for the winter season shop of boat hire,surfing equipment and gifts. A ten minute coastal path walk brings you to an old disusedfishing boat that the children love to clamber around on.
Getting back to the accommodation;
Ideal for a family,or a couple/foursome, complete with everything one needs including a small color TV /video. But no washing machine (launderette up the road for £2 a wash)
To be honest with Basil aswell 5 is a bit of a squeeze, though, we didn’t mind. Four would be perfect. A couple? in luxury. This apartment was carpeted throughout. (apart from the kitchen) and was fairly spacious.The first one of two on the first floor,aptly called:”The dolphin.” You climb a short set of white washed stone steps to reach it. This came completely kitted out with everything one would need,for a basic self catering family apartment. (Plus the bonus of either the pub section of the Inn just across the way or an a-la-carte menu in their restaurant.) A separate good sized kitchen everything you need fridge,microwave,cooker,crockery cups,utensils etc. A separate lounge/diner with a table and chairs,a full sized double sofa pull- out bed,and a separate Double bedroom,with double bed, which had gorgeous sea views from every angle,and ample wardrobes,dressing table and drawer space. we watched the free firework display at the old success Inn at midnight on New years Eve from here. The separate bathroom, had a shower attached over the bath. Heated towel rail,inclusive of towels,complimentary shower gel,shampoo and soap too. Inclusive in the rent,are all towels,all bed sheets,linen,duvets pillows etc,electricity,heating,radiators and an aditional gas fire. 3 nights,for the 5 of us + (£10 supplement for the dog) came to £213 total.
The defining factor was being so close to the edge of the map without falling off! Not bad.with just a mile (20 minute walk along the coastal footpath to Lands End,with a Tourist Attraction complex. ( most of it mercifully closed for the winter),with open gift shops,pottery local crafts and gifts,adequate for all our needs without the crowds-heaven! An unexpected bonus-1 tourist attraction open. very interesting and definitely worth a visit. The under cover,“historic cornwall” with kiddies in mind- part fable/ part documentary monster tales of the sea complete with special effects and a video showing the life boat team rescues etc..which lasted for roughly 40 minutes. cost : £15 (family ticket) take a coat there-it's freezing. you sit on rocks aswell. There were the obligatory ship wrecks, and a few yards further in this complex a playpark for tots,and further on,near the edge of Lands End, the "Lands End Hotel" very expensive and grand with a coffee/cafe shop aswell as the restaurant. Imposing large floor to ceiling windows absolute stunning views white, built of granite to last the weather conditions with it’s Panoramic large top to floor windowed views of the scenic “first and the last” Lands End, where for the princely sum of £20 partake of real thick Cornish clotted cream teas/and hot chocolate and jam for 5 of course.per person about £2.99
The views are breathtaking and give acess to the whole glittering atlantic the occasional ship,the light house and the cliffs where it all ends or begins (whichever way you want to look at it.) Out of the warmth and protection of the hotel, it felt lonely and very cold of course.An errie atmosphere. The turbulent tide was mercilessly battering against the rocks, overwhelming everything else,and the children felt in awe of the sheer open scale of the Atlantic sea. We all did. The wind moaned like screeching branches being dragged along lonely moorlands,and it did give us the shivers. It served as a majestic and rather dramatic reminder of all the people that this unpredictable ocean had claimed the lives of. You couldn’t help wondering as you tiptoed near the edge and leant over, how it must have felt to be in a storm tossed fishing vessel,fighting for life. A memorable place.
The Lizard Penninsula:
Rugged windy and roughly 16 miles away from here on the southern instep side of the boot felt rather similar. .The craggy rocks and majestic cliffs could of course be very dangerous. The place was almost deserted,surrounded by small villages with the occasional open craft/ souvenior shops here..
We ate hot soup with crusty rolls a simple meal very cheaply in a delightful tea-room/ cafe here. Very few shops and the real Cornish icecream –a rip- off at £1.60.
Always stick to the marked coastal paths. Never go too near the edge,as the continual battering of the waves means that with time,tide,and seasons the rocks over the years are eroding much of the original remains of the cliffs. Being out of season, you felt even more the stern keen sense of isolation and how empty and desolate and rather eerie the place felt without the noisy bustling summer crowds.
Car parking here is astronomical,so try to walk there from The old Inn if you can.
PENZANCE.
Car parking space is limited. There are numerous shops,cafes and high street stores in the larger and busier town of Penzance. This is Just 7 miles out of Sennen cove. We booked cinema tickets for Peter Pan,and there was only 1 screen in the entire building which looked as if it hadn’t been changed for centuries! There were about 40 seats in all. Apparently there is a resident ghost there,which the kids enjoyed spooking themselves over! Namely,Lennard,the projectionist from the silent movies era 1910 apparently. (I think the children were relieved that we didn’t bump into him though!)
NEWLYN: Not much to say here really. I didn’t like this town much-,we only got to see it at night,passing through, but I can vouch for the Chinese takeaways! plenty of pubs and interesting side roads and very expensive restaurants here. Very touristy quaint side streets, but there was no where to park, it was lit up all along the bay which looked very pretty in the distance by car-but as you drew nearer,with its empty streets and crumbling buildings reminded you of a run down,tacky Kiss me quick Arcade! Sorry- not meaning to offend anyone from Newlyn here.. I liked the harbour which was pretty . lit up across the bay spoiled by over the top las vegas Christmas lights,- but some nice sailing boats in an interesting harbor too.
ST IVES
We enjoyed a lovely morning in quaint up market expensive St Ives which felt friendly and agreeable-some lovely Inns and fishermens ' cottages here.with its quaint cobbled streets and pretty hanging baskets. Lots of inteteresting things to do,The tate gallery is a must. Lots of nice restaurants cafes and craft shops fascinating olde worlde-very expensive,artists and musicians flock here and much of their work is in the tate Gallery..
I forgot to mention the modern (1980’s period) abandoned Fishing vessel ship wreck,in Sennen Cove, pulled out of the sea doesn't look much a steep hilly climb to get there. The cornish icecream for £1.60 rip off,and the lovely pasties! I also bought a post card with a traditional old receipe for Cornish pasties so if any one wants the recipe just leave a note in my GB.and I’ll be happy to oblige.
Lastly,and finally,here is the address contact details of the Dolphin Apartment we stayed at.
The manager is Martin G. Brooks. You can telephone direct on: Cornwall : 01736 871232 / Fax: 01736 871457
Address: The Old Success Inn Sennen Cove Cornwall TR19 7DG.
Tarriffs for Special Autumn/spring Offers: (they are very popular so be quick if you want to bag the 4 poster bed. I expect ideal for honeymooners.)
1 Night Dinner bed & Breakfast £37 p.p. 1 Extra Night,Dinner Bed Breakfast £35 p.p. Full English Breakfast from 8.30-9.30.am Live Music in the bar every Saturday night. They have both bar snacks/meals,and a-la-carte menu/ Restaurant Free parking.
(Free firework display and disco at midnight for New years Eve .Weren’t we lucky?!) The Inn has a resident ghost but I don’t know much about it.the staff don't know much either.
You can book your accomodation online Visa/credit card if you wish. just type in The old Success Inn,as I can't remember the website address.
Last thing..We didn’t spot the dolphins whilst in Sennen Cove but they do frequent this little bay. dont forget the Sennen Cove boat trips are 45 minutes long £10 per person .
Having lived in Cornwall as a child, returned for a year with the children in the sixties, and finally moved down for good a good twenty years ago, I love Cornwall, as my home. No-where else has the same feeling. Yet still you manage to write and inspire me with your love of Cornwall. Thankyou so much for the memories of the places I haven't visited recently. My friend who lived in Sennen Cove, married an American and moved to Minneapolis a few years ago, I miss her terribly, and don';t go there so much now.....a really great review, and a lovely recommendation to anyone thinking of holidaying here. thanks. elinor.
nickyturnill 13.04.2005 10:22
Great review..... It is a long way from Newcastle mind you.....
Tea65 06.04.2005 12:51
We went to Cornwall last year for our Honeymoon and it was wonderful. We'll definately be going back sometime in the near future. Tea xx
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