Many, many, many years ago (you get the idea), the warrior giant of Ulster, Finn McCool was challenged to a ‘scrap’ with the Scottish giant Benandonnor. In order for Benandonnor to get across, Finn built a highway from Antrim to the Isle of Staffa, Benandonner’s home.
One day after the highway was built Benandonner came over to Antrim whilst Finn was asleep. Finn’s wife realised that he was much bigger and stronger than her husband so she cleverly (what else would you expect from a woman) covered Finn with a blanket and a baby’s bonnet. When Benandonner arrived and saw the baby he didn’t stay around to see Finn: if the baby was that big then how big would Finn be! When he went back across to his home on the Isle of Staffa he destroyed the highway in his wake, and today the Giant’s Causeway is what remains.
Ok, the scientific version is millions of years ago, cooled down larva that was compressed to form the basalt columns, is
now what forms the Causeway. Whichever theory you believe, it really is a dramatic site.
I am very surprised that the Giant’s Causeway is not the eighth wonder of the world. As with many attractions I had people waxing lyrical about it so wanted to see it for myself. I wasn’t disappointed.
The local council and The National Trust jointly maintain the Causeway. It gives tourists confidence I think that any money that you do have to pay out will be invested by a reputable organisation like The National Trust into preserving landmarks such as this. Which brings me to the cost. There isn’t an entry fee as such, but you do have to pay £2 for parking in the car park. You can if you want, park further down on the road (if you’re stingy!), but bear in mind the £2 goes to the obligatory worthy cause (way…sorry, I’ll keep the jokes to myself).
There’s plenty to wander around before you actually make the descent to the Causeway. Around the top, overlooking the sea, there are a collection of shops and a Tourist Information Office. Refreshments are available from the shops or there’s a cafeteria in the main entrance as you go in. Beware of some of the shops: tacky souvenir alert!
Before you go down and look at the Giant’s Causeway itself you might want to watch a 10 minute film in the theatre which mainly concentrates on the myth surrounding the creation of the Causeway, it only costs £1, but is mainly aerial shots of the Causeway, with the story of Finn and his Scottish counterpart and some ‘floaty’ Irish music. It wasn’t really much use. Ok, you might have seen pictures of the Giant’s Causeway before, but you don’t want to see them before you go to see it – it spoils the fun a bit. I think it would have benefited with a thin brochure telling the story of the giants as you’re looking at the different formations.
Right, the Giant’s Causeway itself. It’s knackering! You can walk or take a bus down to the rock formations. If like us, you forget to take enough money, you walk. Going down was the easy bit. It was the coming up which we weren’t looking forward to. Once down at the bottom and walking along the pathway running parallel to the sea, all the psychological anxiety of what is to come becomes worth it. The Giant’s Causeway is truly amazing. It is hard to believe the scientific explanations of the hexagonal pillars – why are they all roughly the same shape? Why hexagonal? Why not square? It really is like looking at modern architecture. I’m sure that the linear lines of the rocks have been copied for that purpose. Unlike many other ‘natural’ attractions, you are able to climb across the pillars, where if you go to the end it juts out of the land, and you can stand on a small area with the sea lapping the rocks almost all the way around you. I hasten to say at this point, that if you go with children, you will need to keep an eye on them all the time: it’s great to be allowed on to the rocks and not just to see them, but adventurous kids might find this too tempting.
As you walk along there are certain formations of rocks that you should look out for. Some are obvious, but again I feel that a written guide would benefit. But, if you look hard there is the Giant’s Boot (I still maintain that this giant must have suffered from clubfoot) and the Giant’s Organ (no, not that sort, the musical sort).
Ok, the walk back up to the carpark…tiring…very tiring. Must…stop…for breath [happybunny collapses]. Yep, I’d advise using the bus to get back up, but you do see some spectacular views (although you can see these at the top and on the bus I would imagine). Oh well, it justified my reason to eat a large tea when I went back to my lodgings that night…
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We love this coast too and it was good to hear your comment - very evocative. I think what we most enjoyed about the Causeway was the walk along the cliffs overlooking the main site. Quite a hike up the cliff, though. Phil
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Advantages: An accessible and relaxed coast, with a winning combination of attractive towns and stunning scenery Disadvantages: Inland, Antrim has less to offer the visitor
Advantages: An accessible and relaxed coast, with a winning combination of attractive towns and stunning scenery Disadvantages: Inland, Antrim has less to offer the visitor
Jul 28th, 2001
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