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700 years on and we're getting there.

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4 Feb 1st, 2003 

29 Ciao members have rated this review on average: very helpful

Advantages:
Ancient city steeped in history, if you know where to look .

Disadvantages:
Outsiders' perceptions

Recommendable Yes:

Detailed rating:

Value for Money

Sightseeing

Shopping

Nightlife

Ease of getting around

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About me:

31/07 I'm back. Yeah, I know I've been slacking but I'll catch up I'm sure. Thanks for all the messa...

Member since:31.01.2003

Reviews:46

Members who trust:94

I'm new to opinion writing so, in line with the advice, I've had a look at some others. I picked my home town as I thought that I would be able to determine the level of objectivity applied. When I didn't recognise the city described by some other contributors I decided to put fingers to keys and try to write something in the spirit of Ciao.

Don't get me wrong, I'd be the first to admit that Coventry is far from perfect, but I think it's failings are the same as those in most major cities.

A little bit of history to set the scene:
Coventry was awarded its Royal Charter in 1345, some 544 years before Birmingham gained City status. It's no wonder we are now a little jealous of our big brother just up the road!
In the 1920's Coventry was voted one of Europe's best preserved mediaeval cities, ahead of Prague and Vienna.
In 1938 Coventry was the fastest growing city in the UK.
Then, in one night in November 1940, we had 500 tons of high explosives and 40,000 incendiary bombs dumped on us. Fifty six percent of the city's houses were damaged or destroyed, 180 of 300 factories were put out of action, and a new verb was coined "to Coventrate" meaning to raze an entire city to the ground.
The immediate post war reaction was to use the flattened city centre to showcase architect Donald Gibson's plan of a pedestrianised shopping centre incorporating green spaces, fountains, murals, and a vista of the Holy Trinity and St Michael's (Old Cathedral) spires. If only he'd been left alone to get on with it.
Regardless of the fact that he wasn't allowed to complete his design the Precinct became a model for other cities around the world to follow.
Built during the late forties and early fifties it's no wonder it's looking a little tired.
Some later planning blunders, in my view, have led to the clean lines of the original plan being ruined with the glass cased escalator and the hateful Cathedral Lanes development.

It's not all doom and gloom though, and there are some real gems tucked away waiting to be discovered by those interested enough to take the time.

Almost everyone planning to visit the city knows about the two cathedrals but how many know we have three ? In addition to the two St Michaels there is also St Mary's. OK it's been knocked about a bit and buried for 600 years but some 15,000 pieces of worked stone have been excavated from the site. Enough to make a decent exhibition, and allow the archaeologists to reconstruct the building as a computer model. You may remember seeing some of the excavation as a Time Team program. Major items are currently on show at the Priory Place visitor centre just two minutes walk from the new cathedral.

The old and new cathedrals are well worth seeing, the old because it gives some impression of how important the city used to be, and the new because it was a brave decision to implement a radically modern design for the first post war cathedral. Other ops have pointed out the stained glass and the West Wall, but for me the highlight has to be the Sutherland tapestry. This really is an immense piece of work, when it was cleaned a few years ago I went to see the cleaners abseiling from the roof to get at the top parts. Have a look in the crypt of the old cathedral for the rough cross of wooden beams from the roof, made a couple of days after the bombing raid, and erected in the ruins of the cathedral by workmen clearing rubble.
Within two hundred yards of the old cathedral is the replica of the Coventry Cross, and close by is Cuckoo Lane where Mary Ball was the last person publicly executed in Coventry, in 1849 in front of a crowd of 20,000 people.
A short walk down Bayley Lane between the wall of the old cathedral and one of the few remaining half timbered buildings in the city you'll find St Mary's Hall, built in 1342 it incorporates a tower which was previously part of the 11th century Coventry Castle. Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned here on her way to Tutbury Castle. Its open to the public and free admission as are all Coventry City Council operated museums and sites of interest.

At the end of Bayley Lane you're faced with a choice, turn right for Browns restaurant/bar, already much mentioned in other ops but gets a thumbs up from me as well, or left for the Herbert Art Gallery and Museum, a shamefully under visited resource in the city. I've been to some exhibitions at the weekend where the security guards are desperate to talk as they've seen so few people. Left of the entrance to the museum is the balance of Coventry University campus, including a new eco-friendly energy neutral library, partly fashioned from one of the city's oldest car engine factories. You can't go in a see it though unless you've got a readers ticket.

Well you've walked probably a whole mile and seen some history and some culture so you might need some retail therapy at this point. Cathedral Lanes does have shops but it's an ugly building completely obscuring the view of the cathedrals so I don't want to recommend anything. With any luck they'll go bust and it can be pulled down.

West Orchards is another shopping mall like those now found in any city. The lower precinct development is nice because it's new and clean. It also houses the only English Heritage listed burger bar. No really! the "round caff" as it was known locally is deemmed to be of significant architectural merit.

About 800 yards from the lower precinct is the Skydome complex of cinema, clubs and bars. This has been built next to Spon Street which is where the city's remaining mediaeval buildings have been relocated, stone by stone and numbered timber by numbered timber. There are some nice pubs and restaurants in this street as well. The ring road cuts Spon Street in half, the other side of the road leading through Spon End and Chapelfield districts where the watchmaking industry was located. Many of the watchmakers traditional "top-shop" buildings are now private houses.

The ring road is much derided and can be daunting to navigate for visitors. I think if you bear in mind that it really is a ring, and only about two miles round, then if you miss your exit you can just stay on it until you get back to the same point. Stories of visitors endlessly circling are much exaggerated, I think!

If you do decide to brave the ring road keep an eye out for the sports centre. It is one of the only modern buildings with some wit. The City Crest is an Elephant with a house on its back and the sports centre is built in the shape of an Elephant complete with trunk that serves as a linking bridge to the central swimming baths next door. From the raised section of the ring road you will also be able to see the new Millenium Place development which we are told will incorporate such useful things as a "World Clock" and a 1000 foot long glass bridge which will allow you to walk over the World Clock. Why ?

This new development will incorporate the frontage of The Museum of British Road Transport, which owing to the city's long history with cycle and motor manufacturing really is worth a look. Again admission is free.

Dining out is well catered for with any number of Chinese, Italian, traditional Indian, and Balti restaurants a short distance from the city centre. All of the chain pubs have evening menus, but some finish serving food quite early at the weekend in order to pack in the serious drinkers. If you make it out to Earlsdon ( £3 taxi ride ) you could try The Gallery which was listed in a national daily as one of the 20 best places to eat in England, best go early though as it does get busy.

Other ops have mentioned it but it's worth repeating that drinking on the street is illegal in Coventry and people do get nicked! Even at a pavement cafe you can only drink if the area is fenced off and you are seated. Seems draconian but was one of the initiatives to counter the street corner boozing mentality mentioned in another op. CCTV coverage in the city centre is almost universal now and I know it makes my female friends feel safer. In common with many major cities there is often trouble at chucking out time at the weekend but the police have stepped up their night time presence over the last few months and, to my mind, the rate of reported instances is definitely falling.

I could list many other places to visit but you're probably getting bored by now. you can tell from the above that I'm proud of my city, I don't shy from the fact that it has its problems, not least of which is the generally held misconception that it's a dirty Midlands industrial city, but give it a chance. Coventry has seen boom and bust for longer than most other places in the UK have been cities and we'll be back, take my word for it.
 

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Comments about this review »

atytyut2434 31.07.2008 02:11

good review. blimey i learnt a few things from that and i live here ;-)

wilsam00 13.03.2004 21:02

I am also from Coventry and found this an intresting read. Sam.

sue.51 02.01.2004 00:57

I felt like I was following you around - I consider myself an adopted Coventrian by virtue of the fact that I lived there for most of my late teens and early twenties - and my daughter was born in Walsgrave. These days I don't tend to get there as much, but did have a drive around a couple of weeks ago when arriving early for a meeting, and was stunned to discover how much parts of it have changed - it is a good example of a city that has turned itself around from the loss of its engineering and car plants - great op and I certainly wasn't bored - I can't believe that the round cafe is still there - it used to be a Wimpy as I recall - what is it now? Sue

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