Often derided by backpackers who see nothing of the city but the notorious Pharaganj district of dingy hotels and cheap roadside eats, Delhi is a cosmopolitan and historic metropolis that has seen nine cities come and go over the last 2000 years.
Rather like Rome, Delhi's history goes back more than two thousand years to the fabled city of Indraprashtra, on the banks of the sacred river Jumna, now being excavated by the Indian Archaelogical Survey.
Over time, invasion and counter invasion have marked Delhi's history with walled fortresses. The red sand-stoned islamic city built during the height of the Moghul empire by Shah Jehan dominates old Delhi, the twin minarets of the Jama Masjid pierce the skyline next to the imposing ramparts of the Red Fort.
Further south, the legacy of another imperial power dominates. Lutyen's gardened city and imperial captial built during the twilight of British power is a collosal statement of imposing grandeur. Just driving up the three kilometeres of Rajpath from the Arch at India Gate to the Viceroys palace and Secretariat buildings is awe inspiring.
The pleasant tree lined avenues of south Delhi is a calming experience, perhaps the only place in this gigantic country where one has the feeling of space, relative peace and quiet. Elegant white washed bungalows stand in manicured gardens. Visit the Mahatma Gandhi museum, Nehru's house and the home of Indira Gandhi, all give fascinating incites into the private lives of some legendary figures in history.
Further south, the Qu'tub Minar is a giant stone tower at the centre of a ruined sandstone city that dates back to the 12th century. Its the tallest free standing stone structure ever built.
Delhi is a frenetic city, yet by European standards and compared to Bombay and Calcutta, it's civilised and relatively clean and quiet. It has a fascinating history that's there to be explored and has some of the best hotels and restaurants in India.
Places to Stay: New Delhi has a host of fantastic five star hotels for the business traveller, at around $200 USD per night. The Taj Man Singh, Mayura Sheraton, Imperial, Intercontinental, Hilton, Ashoka, and the Oberoi all have fantastic restaurants which cost no more than eating out in London. Just drop in for a coffee and an air-condition break during that heavy itenary of sight-seeing.
Budget Places to Stay: The Pharahganj district has endless rock bottom and dingy backpacker haunts for as little as $2 a night.
Things to See: Old Delhi's bustling markets, the Red Fort and Jama Masjid. New Delhi's colonial architecture.
Places to Eat: Go to the Hauz Khas shopping and eating complex in Defence Colony, Lovely places to eat overlooking a deer park and Moghul ruins from the 17th Century.
Shopping: India's crafts emporium on Janpath is a wonderful and cheap place to explore for presents. Prices are marked, so no problem with haggling. Connaught Place is Delhi's major shopping district.
Banks and Airlines. HSBC and CITIBANK have offices near Connaught Place and ATM's accepting credit cards.
Best time to go: Summer is unbearably hot and temperatures often top the mid 40's (celsius!) October to March has an English summertime climate, and the temperature can drop to 15 degrees during cold snaps.
Getting there: Daily flights from London with BA, Air India, Virgin and a host of Middle Eastern Airlines. Daily flighs from Europe with KLM, Air France, SAS, Swiss Air, Lufthansa, etc.
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Advantages: Scenary, Lakes, Modern and Ancient architecture, Nightlife, Entertainment, Shopping and great food. Disadvantages: Poor local authorities and everything run by Public sector.
Advantages: It's a real gathering point and well worth a visit Disadvantages: You'll get more out of your visit if you've done a bit of reading beforehand
Sep 7th, 2000
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