Kites rise highest against the wind - not with it.. (Winston Churchill)
Kites rise highest against the wind - not with it.. (Winston Churchill)
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As a self-endowed treat during my studies towards my degree, I went on a tour of Classical Greece accompanied by my ever patient husband. The highlight of tour proved to be Delphi. The approach to the city was breathtaking in itself as the coach wound itself down the pine tree lined roads of the holy mountain, Parnassus.
From the road, many of the ancient sites are visible. We strained our necks to catch whatever glimpses we could but we had to be patient for a closer inspection. The sites were closed for the day and we would have to wait for the morning to gain entrance.
The city of Delphi lies approximately 3k away. We settled into our Hotel, The Casti. The hotel boasts of being “modern with all comforts sited in the quietest part of Delphi”. Well, the hotel has a distinctive look of the 1970s which in comparison to the ancient site. I suppose is modern. The rooms were small but reasonably comfortable, en-suite with a tiny shower cubicle but the crowning glory was a balcony from which there were magnificent views over Itea.
After our evening meal at the hotel (the staple meal of chicken followed by an apple to which we were now becoming accustomed as our usual nightly fare on the tour), we wandered into the city. The city, although small, was largely comprised of souvenir shops and hotels still open late into the evening. Although aimed mainly at tourists, the goods in the shops were not just tat but stocked some quality jewelry and leather goods. We did buy some smaller pieces of jewelry here as presents.
As we strolled through the small, quiet and traditional streets, we noticed a number of restaurants, inns and cafés, selling a variety of meals and drinks most specializing in seafood. We did not eat in any since
we had just eaten in the hotel but the smells were very tantalizing.
The next morning, we headed to the ancient site which according to the earliest legends was originally a sacred place of the earth goddess Gaia guarded by her daughter, the serpent Python. Apollo, the son of Zeus, later came from Mount Olympus to Parnassus to slay Python who sought sanctuary with her mother. After a fierce battle, Apollo claimed the site. Later repenting of his crime, Apollo returned to Delphi, building his temple on the exact place where he had slain the serpent marking it with the Omphalos stone. The site at this stage was originally called Pytho after the serpent. It was renamed Delphi, after the dolphin whose form Apollo took to bring Cretan sailors to become the priests and guardians of his temple. The Omphalos stone was to become the centre of the inner sanctum of the shrine of the Delphic oracle.
Another myth claims the site to be the center of the world according to the god Zeus. Two ravens had been released by Zeus from opposite ends of the earth and were they met was the centre of the earth. This of course was Delphi. Yet another myth is the Omphalos stone was simply a meteorite.
Delphi is most well known for its oracular powers. The art of prophecy was said to have been revealed to Apollo by Pan (the half goat-god of wild places and evocative music). Its reputation reached its height in around 7 BC. Women were considered more sensitive than men to the oracular powers of the site. In order to become more receptive, they would first bathe in the waters of the nearby sacred Castalian spring (said to have been created when the winged-horse Pegasus struck the ground with his hoof). Then they would drink from the sacred Kassotis spring; inhale the fumes of burning laurel leaves. Priest would then sit around listening, recording and interpreting her words. The words proved to be so accurate that the Delphic oracle came to exercise enormous political and social power in the Greek empire for nearly a thousand years. In the 1990s, a team comprising of a geologist, an archaeologist, a chemist and a toxicologist, set out to analyze the site to provide a scientific reason for its oracular powers. The region's underlying rocks turn out to be composed of oily limestone fractured by two hidden faults that cross exactly under the ruined temple, creating a path by which petrochemical fumes (methane, ethane and ethylene) could rise to the surface to help induce visions. In particular, the scientists found that the women communing with the oracle probably came under the influence of ethylene - a sweet-smelling but psychoactively potent gas once used as an anesthetic. In light doses, ethylene produces feelings of disembodied euphoria and visionary insight.
Whatever, the truth behind the myths, excavations has revealed that the origins of the site date from about 1500 BC. The ruins of Delphi were excavated by the French Archaeological School, in 1893. At this time, the village of Kastri, sat on top of the site. The village was relocated and the remains of two sanctuaries, that of Apollo and one to Athena were uncovered. The numerous finds are now housed in the Archeological Museum of Delphi and the remains opened to tourists.
Just outside the site, is the Castalian Spring which runs into a fountain from which you are able to purify yourself before entering. The main entrance to the site leads directly into the Sacred Precinct. Here the ticket office, admits tourists in exchange for € 6 per person. Children are admitted free of charge. A combined ticked can be bought for the site and museum for € 9. I do recommend this as many of the statues and artifacts from the site are housed in the museum without which the experience of Delphi would not be complete.
Tourists are guided up through the precinct on the Sacred Way. Stops are highlighted at specific places of interest. At the site of the Omphalos stone, a replica now stands. The Rock of the Sibyl commemorates the first Delphi oracle, nicknamed "Sibyl," real name Herophile who is said to have sat on this rock, talking in riddles. The Gymnasium was a complex of buildings used by the youths of Delphi for their education and practice. It was constructed in two levels: on the upper was a stoa and a free open space used for running practice, and on the lower was the palaestra, the pool and the baths.
The Treasury of the Athenians, a mall building in the Doric order, was built by the Athenians at the end of the 6 BC to house their offerings to Apollo. The Polygonal wall, a retaining wall for the temple of Apollo is inscribed with the names of freed slaves. The Temple of Apollo itself is suitably impressive with Doric columns still standing.
The Altar of the Chians. in front of the temple, was paid for and erected by the people of Chios, was made from black marble except for the base and cornice which were white marble. The result is a beautiful contrast. The altar was restored in 1920.
The 4c BC Pythian theater which hosted music and drama competitions is incredibly well preserved with 35 rows of stone benches.
At the highest point of the site, is the Stadium constructed in 5 BC. It is reached through an arched monumental entrance. The central track complete with starting blocks is lined with stoned benches.
Do then visit the museum. The Delphi museum houses what survives of the sculptures and votives that once adorned the sanctuary of Apollo. To see Delphi without these, you would not achieve the holistic picture. The main items of interest are the marble replica of the Omphalos stone, bronze shields and statuettes, a silver archaic bull, and the Bronze Charioteer. Photographs are allowed without a flash. The site can be viewed in around three hours if only a cursory view is taken but to give it justice I would allow a full day. The site is open daily from 15th June until 31st October between 07.30-19.00 so this gives good opportunity to take your time and enjoy the experience.
The site is spread over the slopes of Parnassus. I’m not sure of the distance actually involved but do know it is substantial. Be warned, it is tiring. Take your time with plenty of breaks. Dave’s main gripe of the day was that he had to walk twice as far as me since as the self-appointed photographer; he would go higher to get a good shot and then return for a closer look.
No food or drink is allowed on the site. If visiting for a long period particularly in the heat make sure you drink before you go in and break the visits to the site and museum with a refreshment stop in the small café just across the road.
Tourist guides tout for business at the entrance but if you purchase a paper guide available at the ticket kiosk, this is not really needed and would allow more freedom with pace and time.
We stayed overnight but buses do run from Athens six times a day. The cost one way is 10 Euro. It is about a 3 hour trip but the bus stops for a snack and toilets breaks.
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Advantages: Rich, varied site with variety of ruins, an excellent museum and outstanding views Disadvantages: Crowded, abundance of tour groups especially in the lower levels of the main site and the museum
magdadh 04.08.2005 ·
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Ciao members have rated this review on average: very helpful
Review of Delphi (Greece)
Advantages: If you only have time to visit a few heritage sites in Greece, this is one of the most famous, fullest and most representative. Disadvantages: Having to hire an official guide, and the town itself isn't particularly 'happening'
anna_mcnally 12.09.2001 ·
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Ciao members have rated this review on average: very helpful
Review of Delphi (Greece)
Advantages: Rich, varied site with variety of ruins, an excellent museum and outstanding views Disadvantages: Crowded, abundance of tour groups especially in the lower levels of the main site and the museum
magdadh 04.08.2005 ·
Read review
Ciao members have rated this review on average: very helpful
Review of Delphi (Greece)
Advantages: If you only have time to visit a few heritage sites in Greece, this is one of the most famous, fullest and most representative. Disadvantages: Having to hire an official guide, and the town itself isn't particularly 'happening'
anna_mcnally 12.09.2001 ·
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Ciao members have rated this review on average: very helpful
Review of Delphi (Greece)
Advantages: breathtaking views, excellent facilities (new bathrooms, pool), nicely landscaped Disadvantages: on an expensive side (not for Delphi though); lack of proper tenting turf
magdadh 30.08.2005 ·
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Ciao members have rated this review on average: very helpful
Review of Campsite Chrissa
![Terra Mystica Delphi Greece [DVD] [NTSC]](http://picnica.ciao.com/uk/83907248.jpg "Terra Mystica Delphi Greece [DVD] [NTSC]")
Sep 26th, 2004
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