Dolac Market, Zagreb

Dolac is Zagreb’s very colourful central fresh produce market. It is situated in the area just behind Trg Bana Jelacic and you can access it though a small lane where you see the flower market start. The market was opened in 1930, having been built on the site of a slum clearance; it was agreed by the city's bigwigs that the houses there were not a fitting sight for visitors to a capital city and so they were duly demolished. I was delighted to read ...
...appreciate the visual impact of Dolac – all the stalls have red striped shades that make a stunning picture, especially on bright sunny days. The main level is predominantly fruit and vegetables although there are a small number of craft stalls at the very back. What I love about this market is that you don’t just get commercial traders with mountains of produce, but you also see individuals selling whatever they have a surplus of. One of the things ... more

Dolac is Zagreb’s very colourful central fresh produce market. It is situated in the area just behind Trg Bana Jelacic and you can access it though a small lane where you see the flower market start. The market was opened in 1930, having been built on the site of a slum clearance; it was agreed by the city's bigwigs that the houses there were not a fitting sight for visitors to a capital city and so they were duly demolished. I was delighted to read that in his speech at the opening of the market, the mayor of Zagreb Dr. Stjepan Srkulj said "“During my visit to Holland this year, ladies and gentlemen, I can honestly say that I did not see a market that was as nice as this...” - and, you know, it is rather special.

Beyond the flower market you can either climb the stone steps to the market proper or go into the main indoor section where you’ll find meats and meat products, dairy stuffs and some dry goods. This market hall is actually underneath the main part of the outdoor market where you’ll find fruit and vegetables.

When you go into the market hall, go off to the left for the meats section; here you see lots of fresh meats hanging and lots of things like offal and tripe displayed in the chillers. Then you’ll come to the stalls that sell cured meats such as spicy sausages or the delicious air-dried ham known as prsut – the Croatian version of Italian prosciutto. If you go enter by the doors on the right, you’ll go straight into the dairy section; at the front of this section are big stone counters where local women can come and sell their homemade cheeses. You may get lucky and score a small free sample of cheese – the soft white ones are absolutely divine. Next to the cheeses are big crust brown loaves – the perfect combination! As they’ll sell you exactly the amount you want, you can pick up the ingredients for a good picnic.

Back outside climb the steps to the upper level. As you do you’ll pass a café that has some outdoor seating – this is an excellent place for a good value lunch and their burek (a flaky pastry snack) – is excellent. This upper level is where you can really get to appreciate the visual impact of Dolac – all the stalls have red striped shades that make a stunning picture, especially on bright sunny days. The main level is predominantly fruit and vegetables although there are a small number of craft stalls at the very back. What I love about this market is that you don’t just get commercial traders with mountains of produce, but you also see individuals selling whatever they have a surplus of. One of the things I love about markets outside the UK is that it is perfectly fine to buy vegetables that aren’t visually perfect, no one worries about an odd shaped pepper in the same way they do here, so you’ll see piles of tomatoes of all shapes and sizes, carrots with earth on them still, beaten up apples and knobbly potatoes. In summer be sure to buy some golden apricots – they are so sweet and juicy; or deep red cherries that leave your fingers stained and have the most amazing flavour. There are piles of dried fruit and nuts too, neatly tied sprigs of herbs, boxes of pink flecked bean pods….

At the back on the left is the covered fish market; it’s not a large place and unless you’re in self-catering accommodation you’re unlikely to buy anything but it’s worth a look to see some of the more unusual fish that you wouldn’t see if you live in the UK. Although Zagreb is inland, it’s not that far from the coast and fresh fish comes in daily; lots of restaurants serve it and if you get the chance you should certainly try some.

Coming back out of the fish market go straight ahead and down the little alley way; this is where the craft stalls are and here you can buy traditional embroidered linen goods and articles of traditional Croatian dress. There are also stalls selling handmade wooden items, the toys are particularly good. At the end of the alley, turn left and you’ll come to the final part of the market. Here the stalls are partly covered - like a half-shop I suppose – and have counters that have windows so the goods are brought back inside at the end of trading and the front of the stall closed up. The stalls here sell clothing and shoes, bags and household goods.

Maybe you come from or live in a country like Italy or Spain where good produce markets are quite common; if you do Dolac might not be as exciting for you as it is for me. However, I would still recommend a mooch around the market to foodies and really to anyone interested in seeing a bit of Zagreb life. It’s colourful and compelling and great fun
 

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