Dover Castle

...50% of these images in Dover in reality, the Blue Birds and Dame Vera have so far eluded me. If, like us, you are regular travellers to the continent via Dover, then you cannot have failed to have seen Dover Castle perched up high above the White Cliffs overlooking the town to the west and port to the due south.

I wonder how many of you have actually visited Dover Castle as a tourist attraction though…..

…..never mind, ...
...for £4.50. I have visited Dover Castle on around six occasions over the last twenty years, the last time being on a beautiful August (2005) day, escorting my wife, her sister and my Polish parents-in-law.

Although Dover Castle is a very prominent landmark, for some extraordinary reason I never find getting there in the car very easy. Yes, there are brown English Heritage signs to direct you through the town, but on a couple of occasions ... more

If you are anything like me, then probably, the word "Dover" conjures up images of White Cliffs, seagulls and maybe even Dame Vera Lynne and Blue Birds. Whilst I have seen 50% of these images in Dover in reality, the Blue Birds and Dame Vera have so far eluded me. If, like us, you are regular travellers to the continent via Dover, then you cannot have failed to have seen Dover Castle perched up high above the White Cliffs overlooking the town to the west and port to the due south.

I wonder how many of you have actually visited Dover Castle as a tourist attraction though…..

…..never mind, join us then, if you will on a voyage of discovery of one of the worlds' longest lasting, and probably, this countries last fully functioning castle.

As with many of the other sites that I have been writing about over the last several months, this one is an English Heritage property. That is lucky for us because our joint membership cards admit my wife and I, plus her 11 year old sister (under 16's can accompany members for free!). The adult admission charge is £8.95, children get in for £4.50. I have visited Dover Castle on around six occasions over the last twenty years, the last time being on a beautiful August (2005) day, escorting my wife, her sister and my Polish parents-in-law.

Although Dover Castle is a very prominent landmark, for some extraordinary reason I never find getting there in the car very easy. Yes, there are brown English Heritage signs to direct you through the town, but on a couple of occasions I have found myself totally lost…..

….but believe me - it is worth finding.

You arrive at Dover Castle, on foot or by car, up a steep approach road. The bridge entering the castle grounds is only the width of a car, so if you are worried that you are at the back of a long queue, do not be. It will only be the traffic light control delaying you.

This is a big attraction offering lots to see and to do, the car parks are therefore extensive, but landscaped and terraced within the outer castle precincts. This is a great arrangement as from no part of the castle or grounds you are looking at a 'sea' of parked cars. You could, if you so wish, park here and wonder around the exterior grounds freely, however, to gain admission to the buildings you will need to buy tickets from the English heritage stand in the lower car park.

You are presented with a sticky label to put on your top and a map showing a plan of the whole site. You will also be booked for one or two (depending on visitor numbers) underground tunnel tours, giving you an allocated time to meet your guide at the underground reception area. If you wish to take both tours, then I would recommend arriving early, probably off-season too, as the tunnel tours are extremely popular and often fully booked by the early afternoon. As this is the best bit, I'll leave it until last, our tour will start above ground.

I am not going to describe in huge detail the history of Dover Castle which is very long. It originated in Roman Times, as witnessed here by the presence of a genuine Roman Lighthouse situated next to an originally Saxon church. St Mary-in-Castro, latterly the garrison church dates from around AD 1000. It was substantially renovated in the nineteenth century, but is very beautiful inside and well worth seeing. The latest developments at the Castle took place in the cold war era, the 1950s tunnels, forming a nuclear attack command HQ. The tunnels are not yet open for public viewing. So, here on this site you are able to see the best part of 2000 years of continuous development.

This is very much a military castle, as apposed to any form of 'home', stately or otherwise. It has a very plain strategic purpose, overlooking the coast of France in the narrowest section of the whole English Channel known as the Straights of Dover. For centuries enemies have been observed from here, invaders repelled. You do not need to be a military historian to appreciate this place, there is plenty for everyone to see along the way and you will depart educated on some aspect of history that you did not expect to find here.

THE KEEP

The main 'above ground' castle building is the massive four square keep built by King Henry II during the 1170's and 80s. From this, and the fortified embankments around it, the castle grew. This keep only ended its military service in1945. As originally designed, it housed grand state apartments, two chapels and a very deep drinking well.

This was one of the last and largest keeps built - 83ft high (25.3m), 98ft square (29.9m). The colossal solid walls varied from 17 ft to 21ft (5.2m to 6.4m)in depth. On the ground floor most of the space was used for storage, both of provisions and in later times powder magazines and arms. The upper two floors approached by two spiral staircases positioned in diagonally opposite corners of the castle, contain the state rooms.

In Medieval and Tudor Times the state rooms and apartments would have remained empty - the King and court travelled with all their own luggage and furniture - the furniture being sent on ahead of the royal party.

This is the scene portrayed in the keep today. The state rooms are filled with replicas of Henry VIII's belongings, as deduced from an inventory of travelling possessions taken at that time. Effectively we, the visitor, are transported back to 1539, having arrived just ahead of that most famous of English Monarchs.

Carrying on up the spiral staircase you emerge onto the roof of the Keep, from which a truly magnificent panorama of Dover, the coastline, the Straits of Dover and, on a clear day, France can be enjoyed. There are few places in my experience sharing such a view!

KEEP YARD AND BATTLEMENTS

Back at ground level, after all that climbing of steps you may well be feeling in need of refreshment or a toilet even. Both an excellent café (serving good quality, reasonably priced food) and good clean modern toilets are to be found in the 1750s Keep Yard Barracks buildings, which enclose the northwest corner of the Keep Yard.

Before descending to the lower, slightly newer, areas of the castle, do take a walk around the battlements, continuously updated since twelfth century. They show just how grand and complex a fortification Dover Castle is.

Going down the steep path from the main Keep area beware - it can be slippery even when not wet - you pass on the edge of the car park now disused 1850s officers barracks before emerging onto a small grass plateau area. Here are to be found Admiralty Look Out and the Port War Signal Station.

From the 1870s until the end of the Second World War, gun batteries were stationed here, close to the cliff edge, in order to protect this strategically vitally important harbour. The statue to the west of the look out is of Vice-Admiral Sir Bertram Ramsay, by sculptor Steve Melton. This was unveiled on 10th November 2000, and commemorates the last great military occupant here at Dover Castle.

To find out much more about Ramsay, carry on down the hill following the 'Wartime Tunnels' signs. This is the part of the castle for which you were presented with a timed ticket upon your arrival. The underground tunnels are approached by a steep tunnel through the cliffs, from which you emerge onto an open platform, literally cut out of the cliff face offering the most spectacular view of Dover Port.

THE TUNNELS

Entering a door leading inside the cliff, you will find another café, toilets, a very good shop and the adjacent visitor's reception to the tunnels. This is a slick operation; there are two tours running, both restricted in numbers. The Annexe level, or Hospital tours are guided by a very well informed English Heritage staff member. The Casemate, or Secret Wartime Tunnels are partially guided, a short explanatory talk is given before you are free to progress through the tunnels at your own pace.

During our recent visits to Dover Castle, we have enjoyed both tours, although never on the same day. The hospital or Annexe level tour requires more walking as your guide leads you back above ground and into the complex just below the lookout platform.

Apart from the Nuclear Tunnels, "Dumpey Level" as you will see them referred to, the hospital was the last development here at Dover, dug in 1941, but not fitted out until the autumn of 1942. These tunnels are steel lined and far less spacious than Napoleonic Casemate Tunnels at the lower level. Unlike the older tunnels, these are laid out on a regular grid pattern with a well designed layout of reception areas, washrooms, toilets, food stores, kitchens and, of course, operation theatres.

This was never intended to be a full 'general hospital', its role was as a Medical Dressing Station, a little like a modern TRIAGE unit, cases then being passed on to larger hospitals in less vulnerable places inland. The current displays of medical implements, the operation theatre, the galley and mess have all been reconstructed from contemporary photographs taken in 1945. These tunnels were subsequently fitted out to provide living accommodation for staff attached to the regional government authorities located here during the 1960s Cold War era.

The Casemate Tunnels are considerably older, dating from the late eighteenth century. England was at war with France, Dover Castle was bursting at the seams with troops, provisions and munitions. By 1797 the room had literally run out. Under the supervision of the Royal Engineers miners were employed to dig seven parallel tunnels - running inside the cliff 50ft below the cliff top. At the rear of the tunnels a connecting passageway was then dug, linking all seven together. The tunnels were fitted out with sanitation, fireplaces and a well. By 1803 the first troops were billeted here, at the height of the Napoleonic Wars over 2000 men were homed in these tunnels.

Compared to the much more claustrophobic 1940s Annexe (Hospital) Tunnels, these are far more spacious and airy. Large brick lined chambers; one can only imagine the living conditions with 2000 men sleeping down here though!

Prior to 1939, the tunnels had remained largely abandoned for over a century. Just before the outbreak of the Second World War they were hastily turned into bombproof headquarters for the Royal Navy's Dover Command. A year later, Admiral Ramsay masterminded Operation Dynamo, the evacuation of Dunkirk from an office, with windows overlooking the Straights of Dover.

Ramsay, if not exactly an unsung hero, has most certainly not had the recognition that he deserved. Here in the tunnels at Dover Castle, that is partly put to right with a video covering Operation Dynamo, the success of which exceeded even Ramsay's own optimistic expectations.

What the visitor sees here today is a recreation of the 1940s tunnels in their wartime role. Communication equipment at the time was undergoing rapid development, although it was far less compact than today, lacking up much space. Direct phone lines lead from here to Downing Street, the Admiralty, War Office and, of course, the local gun batteries and airfields - Biggin Hill, Manton and Hawkinge. Not only can you see all the switchboard equipment, but also the plotting tables, wall map and charts that played the most vital role in the defence of our nation.

There is a lot to take in underground at Dover Castle, and even if, like me, you are not a war historian, there is plenty to see and do here. The atmosphere of wartime Britain is palpable within the tunnels.

My Polish parents in law, who do not speak English, had a very good understanding of the workings and development of Dover castle. Klaudia, who is rather too young to understand the military side of things, really enjoyed the views and running around up and down the many hills and stairs. The children love running around castles with all their hiding places and peep holes. Yes, Dover Castle really does offer something for everyone and at £8.95 for admission I would have to rate it as a bargain in today's inflated times.

The consensus of opinion within our little group at least, was that Dover Castle was a much more interesting site than Windsor, visited during the same week, it was certainly a much less expensive day out too.

This is one property that English Heritage have really "done proud"!

24 Mar-30Jun 10am-6pm Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat, & Sun.
1 Jul-31Aug 9.30am-6.30pm Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat, & Sun.
1-30 Sep 10am-6pm Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat, & Sun.
1-31 Oct 10am-5pm Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat, & Sun.
1 Nov-31 Jan 10am-4pm Mon, Thu, Fri, Sat, & Sun.
1 Feb-31 Mar 10am-4pm Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat, & Sun.
24-26 Dec and 1 Jan Closed

Details: Keep closes at 5pm on days of hospitality events.

COSTS:

Adult: £8.95
Children: £4.50
Concession: £6.70
English Heritage Members: Free
Family ticket (2 adults and 3 children): £22.40
Details: The last tour of the tunnels starts 1 hour before the site closes
 

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