I'm clearing out the deadwood from my COT. So, with my chopper in hand...
I'm clearing out the deadwood from my COT. So, with my chopper in hand...
Member since:12.06.2002
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Over the years, I've lost count of the number of times I've passed through Dover on my way to the continent. Passing through seemed to be the right thing to do, as it's perhaps not the most attractive of Kentish towns.
DOVER is one of the busiest ports in England, which is not surprising as it's the closest point of the UK to mainland Europe. It's a bustling, transit town that at first glance has no real tourist attractions, and nothing to encourage the passing traveller to linger a while. But blank out the container ports, the Ro-Ro ferries and Hydro-foils queuing outside the harbours, and the juggernauts thundering down slip roads, and take a second look. High above the town, perched atop those famous white cliffs, and there sits a magnificent Norman castle which, by a strange quirk of fate, I'm about to describe to you.
* DOVER CASTLE *
Because of it's strategic position as the gateway to England, there has been some sort of fortification here for many centuries. When the Romans occupied the country, they built an 80ft high lighthouse, constructed of the local flint, on the remains of an old iron age fort. It then fell to the Anglo-Saxons to make their mark and it's thought the site became a fortified town - the remains of the Roman lighthouse lie next to the 1000 year-old Saxon church at the highest point in the castle grounds. Following his victory at the Battle of Hastings, William the Conqueror went to Dover Castle and did a bit of building work - not personally, obviously.
Henry II completely reconstructed the castle between 1168 and 1188, creating the towered walls of the Inner Bailey, some of the outer walls and the large square Keep at
the castle's heart - the keep is the largest in England. Throughout the medieval period, the castle managed to withstand all efforts to capture, or destroy it. It was taken over by Parliamentarians during the Civil War, but hardly a shot was fired and the castle survived intact.
During the Napoleonic Wars, and the threat of invasion by France, the castle underwent drastic alterations to provide more defences and better gun emplacements. More work was undertaken during WWII - providing extra firepower to protect the harbour and extending the network of tunnels below the castle.
VISITING THE CASTLE, it's possible to drive right up and through the outer gates where you can park near the summit. I'd recommend this over walking up from the town as it's a pretty steep slog up to the outer walls, and it doesn't get any easier once inside.
When we bought our tickets, we were given a small map but everything's well signposted so it's not hard to find your way around. There's no set route to explore the castle, but it pays to stop a while, study the map, and get your bearings - the site is quite hilly and you don't want to be climbing up and down any more than is needed.
Our first port of call was THE KEEP (or Great Tower) It's 4 storeys high, and consists of a basement, a first floor, and a second floor which spans two storeys. The second floor contained the royal apartments while the first floor was more modest. All floors are connected by spiral staircases set in the north and south corner turrets, various passageways and other staircases scattered around. It's a bit of a 3D maze.
There's not an awful lot to see inside the building - an exhibition about the visit of Henry VIII in 1539, the small chapel, and some bed-chambers etc. It's still pretty interesting though, especially if you have any interest in construction technique as it's a quite impressive structure and there are 1 or 2 unusual features, such as: The well is accessible on the second floor only - this meant that if the lower part of the keep were attacked, the enemy couldn't poison the water supply. It was cut through some 400ft of chalk to achieve this. The water was piped throughout the Keep from this lofty position and some of the pipes are still visible.
Also in The Keep, is a 'sound & light' presentation of the 1216 siege of the castle which is pretty good - we had the whole thing to ourselves, which was nice.
The INNER BAILEY walls surround the KEEP YARD, and this was always the hub of the castle. From the earliest times, this would have been lined with buildings of all types, but most of the present ones date from the 18th century and were constructed as barracks. Some of the buildings aren't open to the public, but the ones that are house: The Princess of Wales Royal Regiment Museum, a shop, a restaurant (which is closed in winter), and toilets.
We then wandered over to the highest point of the castle (and the oldest). This is where you'll find the remains of a Roman lighthouse and a Saxon church. Around half of the original 24m of the tower survives, but it's in quite a ruinous state. The church dates from around AD1000, although it was heavily restored in the 19th century...in a typical, heavy-handed Victorian manner. The building itself is quite sympathetic, but the interior, with its ghastly tiled mosaics, is reminiscent of a Victorian lunatic asylum (no, I was never an inmate - it's just a guess).
Fast approaching LUNCH-TIME, we made our way downhill to the main restaurant. This is housed in an old Naafi canteen from the time when the castle was still a garrison (troops were stationed in the castle until 1958 - a total of 892 years military occupation). Happily, it had been modernised since those days, although I don't think the quality of the food had improved a great deal. It wasn't terrible, just over-cooked and over-priced.
We were now quite close to the lowest point of the castle, just on the rim of the actual White Cliffs. So the sensible thing to do was investigate the SECRET WARTIME TUNNELS. You're advised to get your entrance ticket time-stamped for this as there is limited access. However, as we were there in Early march, and it wasn't very busy, we just took our chances that we could get in with the next tour. We did.
The guided tour usually takes around an hour, including an introductory film, but some of the tunnel was closed due to maintenance.
Most of the tunnels were constructed during the Napoleonic Wars as troop barracks, but there's not a lot of evidence of that period to be seen. The tunnels really came into their own during the evacuation of Dunkirk in 1940. This was the command centre that oversaw the rescue of 338,000 men of the BEF, along with 139,000 French troops. This, together with the good guys winning the Battle of Britain, curtailed Hitler's plans Western European domination, and probably ensured the eventual demise of the nazis.
Many of the tunnels have been restored with the original features (table-maps, telephone exchange, office furniture etc) and give a very authentic feel for what it must have been like to live and work down there during that period. The desks even had ash-trays overflowing with Woodbine and Capstan cigarette-butts!
One thing I found remarkable here, was the ventilation system. It was taken from an old British battleship and, although a little rusty and decrepit-looking, was still functioning perfectly as an air-conditioner.
There is also a small shop and a cafe (shut for the Winter) at the entrance to the tunnels.
* A Little Rant *
Dover Castle is owned and run by English Heritage. Now, most of its 1000+ years history is exclusively English, but I took exception to the guide in the tunnels continually droning on about Hitler planning to invade "England", bomb "England", and "English" troops being rescued from Dunkirk, blah...blah...blah. All the history books I've ever read mention BRITAIN being at war with nazi Germany and, I'm maybe sticking my neck out here, but isn't that why that little spat in the sky above Kent was called the Battle of Britain? I thought about chinning the guide and pointing out the sacrifice that Scots, Welsh and Ulstermen made, but everyone knows we Scots aren't an aggressive people...besides, MrsP told me to keep it firmly zipped.
Actually, the guide was very good and very entertaining, just a little inaccurate...a misguided guide, if you like.
There's a lot more to see in the castle - medieval tunnels, battlement walks, look-out points, gun emplacements etc, but by then we had had just about had our fill of castles, and sieges, and soldiers, and tunnels, and wars, and walks, and bangers-n-mash....and I have a sneaking suspicion that you have too. So, we took a slow meander up the hill and back towards the car, and left Dover Castle to cope with another millennium of history.
* ESSENTAIL INFORMATION *
Location: On the cliff above the port of Dover. Sign-posted from town.
Opening Times: 10am-4pm 1 Nov- 31 Mar 9.30am- 6pm or dusk (whichever earliest) Mar-Nov
Admission Prices: Adults - £8 Children - £4.30 Concessions - £6.40 This includes the tour of the secret wartime tunnels.
The castle is reasonably suitable for disabled visitors and there is a land-train to make some of the distances more manageable.
It is recommended that you allocate four hours for your visit. I would suggest that a little longer might be more realistic if you want to see everything. We missed out quite a bit, and it was not very busy, and we were there for at least 4 hours. At busy holiday times when I imagine it's quite crowded, I think you could easily spend the best part of a day. I would also suggest buying the guide book at the entrance. Although you are given a map and small guide with your ticket, the guide book is a wealth of information and brings the site alive. Well worth £2.99.
In conclusion, I was mightily impressed with Dover castle. The condition of the structure is excellent, and I learned quite a bit about English history in general, and Dover's history in particular.
How did I miss that???? [review, I mean, impossible to miss the castle, it's visible from most points in Dover and after all I live here].
Acornseed 19.11.2004 15:15
Well written account of this fabulous castle. You must see all the other 200+ other English Heritage properties which all offer something of interest. Must go back to Dover again :O)
Belle 03.05.2004 00:11
I love wondering about old castles, I don't live toooo far away, might have to make the effort and don't just go to Dover to get to France! K xxx
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