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Mad Cabbies Rough Guide To Dublin

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5 Jun 5th, 2001  (Sep 27th, 2001)

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the_mad_cabbie

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Diagnosed with an aggressive cancer of the right lung on my 58th birthday (14th July) So not really ...

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~ ~ A recent survey shows that Dublin has recently overtaken both Amsterdam and Paris as the top spot in Europe for weekend breaks.
As a taxi-driver in the “Fair City” I can only endorse the findings of this survey. I would estimate there is probably three times the volume of travellers passing through the Airport in Dublin in 2001 than there was in 1995.

~ ~ The reasons behind this huge upsurge in visitors are not too hard to understand.
Ireland in general, and Dublin in particular, has undergone an economic boom in the last decade, which is practically unprecedented in European economic history.
Economic growth has been steadily increasing at the astonishing rate of around 10% per annum. Not only does this mean that Ireland’s previous biggest export, people, has stopped, but that these tens of thousands of primarily young people are being joined by others from all around the globe, all eager to partake of the spoils of the aptly named “Celtic Tiger”.

~ ~ The entertainment and service industry has had to respond in kind to cater to this new market. The last few years have seen an average of 10 new hotels every month opening their doors for custom, and the cities’ pubs and night-clubs are now the talk of Europe.

~ ~ There has always been plenty to see in Dublin, as it is an ancient city, founded back at the time of the Vikings. Indeed, there is now a Viking longship permanently harboured in the River Liffey just up from the Custom House, to remind Dubliners of their Scandinavian forebearers.
It looks particularly well over the Christmas holiday period as it is all decked out in lights.

~ ~ There is enough history in the City Centre alone to keep the most avid culture vulture happy for weeks.
You have the oldest University in Ireland, Trinity College, founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth the First of England. The architecture of this edifice alone makes it worth a visit, and it also houses the Book of Kells, the ancient Christian illuminated manuscript, which dates back to the middle ages.
The Trinity Library is one of the finest to be found anywhere in the world, and the Old Dining Hall where the Fellows partake of Commons every evening is magnificent.
To wander around the Trinity grounds is for all the world like being in either Oxford or Cambridge in the U.K., and indeed, Trinity still has close connections with both these esteemed seats of learning.

~ ~ Just round the corner in Merrion Square you have the National Gallery of Ireland, with its many fine old and modern masterpieces, by renowned artists from all over the world. On the same street are the Irish Houses of Parliament, the “ Dail”, and Government buildings, both dating back to the 19th century.
Merrion Square itself is a beautiful example of an old Georgian square, and although it is now mainly given over to office accommodation, many of the old doors still exist, and are fascinating to view. In fact, they are protected by law, and it is illegal for a resident to replace them.
There are many of these old squares dotted all over the city, and most have little parks in the centre, oasis’s of calm amidst the hustle and bustle that make a modern metropolis.

~ ~ Talking of parks, Dublin also boasts the largest inner city park in the whole of Europe, the Phoenix Park. This park is so large that it even has its own herd of wild deer, with which I have had various altercations over the years, as they have a propensity to wander out into the middle of the road at night-time, putting the heart crossways in any driver who meets them.
The Phoenix Park is again protected by statute, and is a magnificent amenity for both residents and tourists. It houses Dublin Zoo, which is worth a visit, and is guaranteed to please the younger visitor. It also has in its grounds “Aras An Uchteran”, the residence of the Irish President, which is right across the way from the U.S. Ambassador’s residence. Both are beautiful buildings.

~ ~ Directly across College green from Trinity is the Central Bank of Ireland building. This dates back to the time of British rule, and used to be the Irish House of Lords.
Just a few hundred yards away is Dublin Castle. This has recently undergone extensive renovation, and the State Rooms have been restored to their former glory, and are now used for important State occasions. They are certainly worth a visit.

~ ~ Walk another hundred yards and you are faced by the truly awe-inspiring Christchurch Cathedral. This is church architecture at its best, and it also houses a permanent exhibition called Dublinia, which shows the development of the Wood Quay site where the Cathedral stands down through the centuries.
This area is thought to be the first part of Dublin to have been settled, and extensive Viking remains and a Viking village were uncovered on this site when the ground for the new Dublin Corporation Civic buildings was being excavated in the 1970’s.
Civic planning was not so forward thinking at the time, and unfortunately the village was destroyed and built over, but many artefacts and remnants were preserved, and are on display at this exhibition.
Just a step and a jump away is another beautiful Cathedral, Saint Patrick’s, named after the patron saint of Ireland.
An interesting point to note in the passing. In spite of the Republic being 99% Roman Catholic, these two Cathedrals are both Protestant churches.
There is, in fact, no Catholic Cathedral in the city, only what is called the Pro-Cathedral on Marlborough Street, which is not actually a Cathedral at all.
This is because the Catholic Church believe both Christchurch and St. Patrick’s to be their rightful property, and that they were “stolen” by the Protestants at the time of the Reformation. They believe that to consecrate a new Cathedral in the city would be tacit acceptance that the two main Cathedrals were lost forever.

~ ~ After a day of sightseeing, you can take in sights of a different nature by stepping out in the Temple Bar area. (see my separate opinion, plug,plug)
Twenty years ago this area was run-down and practically derelict, but now is the hub of the Dublin nightlife scene.
It is packed with bars, restaurants, shops, galleries, and theatres; in fact, you name it and Temple Bar has it.
You can take in a traditional “Oirish” bar, complete with fiddles and traditional dancing, two of the best known being Oliver St. John Gogarty’s and O’Sheas Merchants.
You can partake of Irish beer at its best, either the national beverage, Guinness, or more exotic types in a bar called The Porterhouse, who actually brew their own beer on the premises.
All types of restaurants are here, from Irish to Chinese and even Mongolian.

~ ~ If you are still able to face it after a night on the tiles, you can take a guided tour of the Guinness Brewery in St. James Gate, where you can visit their tap room and taste Guinness as it was intended to taste.
The same thing applies to Irish Whiskey, if that is your tipple.
Jamesons, the famous Irish distillers, also have a tour of their distillery in the Smithfield area of the city.
In fact, they have built a magnificent visitor’s centre, with gift shops, bars, restaurants, exhibitions, and all manner of goodies.

~ ~ But whatever else you may discover or find to do here in the Emerald Isle, one thing you can be sure of is a warm and sincere Irish welcome.
The Irish must come close to being the friendliest race on God’s green earth. They have a saying here, “A stranger is only a friend you haven’t met yet”

~ ~ This, above all else, is what has kept a native born Scotsman like myself in Ireland for the past 22 years, and which will probably keep me here forever.

 

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Comments about this review »

Andy.mack 01.10.2004 17:10

I keep looking at Dublin ops and wishing I could afford to go in the near future but unfortuatly it's not gonna be till next year, but i can taste the guinness already lol

herby30 28.10.2003 17:19

Planning a visit soon hopefully!

kazziebears 02.09.2002 17:50

Hee hee I am checking lots of Dublin ops out now in readiness for next year! Kazz x

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