Edinburgh Castle, built on the site of an extinct volcano, sits high on a steep cliff, dominating both the Old Town and New Town of the city. You can see it from just about anywhere, fascinating but foreboding in the daytime with its Traitor's Gate etched into the hillside (thus providing a mighty and fatal fall for all those who were thrown out of it onto the rocks below), and utterly beautiful at night-time when it is floodlit. The castle is Scotland's most popular tourist attraction, not just for its beauty and state of preservation, but also for its long and often bloody history.
The castle dates from the 12th Century, but the land itself has been inhabited from 800 BC. It was the seat of Scottish Kings, but has also been occupied
from the English, including Oliver Cromwell. Among many other notable events, it was the place where Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to King James VI of Scotland and James I of England.
Because of its strategic position, it was frequently under attack and the site of bloody battles.
You enter the castle at the top of the 'Royal Mile' in the heart of the old town. The drawbridge you pass over to get inside has statues of William Wallace and Robert the Bruce at either side.
Inside the castle walls is a plethora of places to visit, from military barracks, prisons, the royal apartments to places of worship.
Before entering any, however, you must stop in front of St. Margaret's Chapel (the oldest building there) and take in the views of the beautiful Georgian New Town and the Firth of Forth.
Below the chapel is the Palace, where you can see the 'Honours of Scotland', the Scottish Crown Jewels. Also here is the Stone of Destiny, on which the Kings were crowned.
You can then go on to the Great Hall and take in the display of arms and armour, and also see the Scottish National Monument.
There are many vaults you can go into, too, which were once used to house prisoners of war, and a military museum. In fact, the castle still serves as Headquarters of the Scottish Division, and Regimental Headquarters for The Royal Scots and Royal Scots Dragoon Guards today.
All around there are information boards explaining where you are and what you are seeing, and loads of really interesting historical facts and drawings.
Other things of note are the one o'clock gun (fired daily without fail) and the military tattoo (which takes place every August). There are also daily displays of birds of prey throughout peak season.
You can browse the castle by yourself, or take one of the frequent guided tours. Doing the latter will ensure you get the full, often gruesome, history of the castle and it's inhabitants. A third option is to buy an audio guide, stick it on your head and walk around by yourself. I plumped for the guided tour and was glad I did. The tour guides really know their stuff and bring the place alive with their knowledge and tales.
And when you've finished, there are several gift-shops to browse (most selling overpriced but often 'tasteful' tat, though the book shop is very good if you like history), and an excellent café which serves great coffee at a reasonable price. The toilets are nice as well, which always leaves a good impression on me.
I spent a good couple of hours at the castle last Saturday and thoroughly enjoyed it, despite having no interest whatsoever in militaria. What impressed me was the sense of history which was almost tangible, the wonderful preservation and restoration that has been done on the buildings, and the fantastic tales told by the tour guides. And nowhere else in the city will you get views like the ones from the castle walls.
The castle was very crowded and there are many steps to climb and steep bits to walk, but none of that spoilt my enjoyment one bit.
Of course the place is touristy, but it's all done in the best possible taste. Yes, you've got the pipers, and yes you've got staff dressed up in traditional Scottish clothes, but it isn't done in a tacky way. There wasn't an 'och the noo' to be heard anywhere.
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Advantages: Lots to see, close to some great shops and other attractions. Disadvantages: No wheelchair access, but I suppose they can't really fit it out with lifts and escelators with it being a building of historic importance.
Aug 30th, 2002
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