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Edinburgh (Scotland)

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Edinburgh - it Stinks

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3 Jul 28th, 2009  (Jul 29th, 2009)

37 Ciao members have rated this review on average: very helpful

Advantages:
Lots to see and do, the city contains some stunning buildings

Disadvantages:
The roadworks, the tramworks, the bagpipes !

Recommendable No:

Detailed rating:

Value for Money

Sightseeing

Shopping

Nightlife

Ease of getting around

rosebud2001

rosebud2001

About me:

Slowly the bugs are getting fixed but it would be nice to see more than one page of new reviews...! ...

Member since:04.05.2009

Reviews:76

Members who trust:50

I have been living in Edinburgh now for almost five years, and in that time I have gone from loving the place to desperately wanting to leave. I am, however, marooned here for the foreseeable future, due to a combination of factors, the most obvious one being sheer bad luck.

We moved to Edinburgh from London for several reasons, the main one being my husband was working in the city at the time. Our daughter was due to leave her special school and the mainstream options available to her in London weren’t great. Actually, that’s being generous – they were hopeless.

For several years Edinburgh had been portrayed as the best place to live for quality of life, and my husband, having worked in the city in the past, was ready for a change – so we made the decision to move 400 miles north.

So what’s right with Edinburgh?

The thing that always impresses the visitor to Edinburgh is the architecture and the history. Taking a walk in the Old Town is fascinating as you imagine how things were hundreds of years ago, when the city got its nickname of “Auld Reekie” from the effluence thrown from windows onto the streets.

I frequently visit High Street in the City, which is part of the Royal Mile, and no matter what time of year I go the area is full of tourists, many of them taking part in walking tours with guides who manage to remain incredibly enthusiastic about their subject, no matter how many tours they carry out. Sometimes I can find the tourists a little irritating, as they get in my way whilst I battle my way to the office I use to renew my parking permit, however I try to remind myself that I have no doubt been an irritating tourist myself in the past.

The New Town is just as interesting historically, but visually is very different. One goes from the claustrophobia of the Old Town – with buildings packed closely together, with the sixteenth century equivalent of high rise flats in the shadow of the castle, to the light and spacious grandeur of the New Town and its quite stunning Georgian architecture.

Edinburgh Castle is no doubt the city’s most famous landmark and while there is no doubt it looks very imposing, it certainly isn’t the most impressive castle I have ever seen. I don’t mean to sound churlish – and I finally visited the castle not long after moving here – but compared to the sheer size of Bamburgh Castle in Northumberland for instance, Edinburgh Castle looks a little bit wimpish.

Having said that, Bamburgh Castle doesn’t house any Crown Jewels, and as far as I am aware doesn’t have gunfire to tell you it’s 1.00 pm every day. It’s also trickier to get to – unlike Edinburgh Castle which is a shot walk from Princes Street, the city’s main thoroughfare.

There is also the annual festival in August which leads to thousands of people of varying talents visiting the city to perform, many of them on the now fabled Fringe. You sometimes have to take a chance with what you are seeing – a couple of years ago I got tickets to see Simon Amstell for a fiver. Sadly he was very bad that day and had I paid much more I would have seriously considered requesting a refund. I have seen less professional performers in the past put on better shows and it really is pot luck sometimes what you might see depending upon ticket availability and how picky you are.

During August the strangest of places suddenly become “venues”, including the street. You get used to seeing people walking down the street dressed in 18th century garb, or wearing body paint to become an animal. Given the weather, I have to say I sympathised with the girl I saw who this week who had been painted to look like a tiger – the only “real” clothing she was wearing was a bikini - brr!

The city has some wonderful art galleries and museums. I am a huge fan of the National Gallery of Scotland and have also enjoyed the Dean Gallery which is very close to where I live. This gallery is sadly trickier to get to for the tourist with the lack of a decent bus service going past, which is a real shame. Museums include the Museum of Scotland, where a preserved Dolly the Sheep can be viewed, and the Money Museum. There is also the famous zoo, which I have reviewed here separately in the past.

There are lots of hotels in the city offering an abundance of places to stay ranging from hostel dorms to five star luxury. The city has seen several Travelodges open recently but be warned – everything is expensive in August and booking is essential before arriving during the festival as accommodation is at a premium then.

What’s wrong with Edinburgh

At this point I must apologise, dear reader, for informing you why a visit to the city is really not a good idea until some time in 2011.

The biggest problem in the city right now is the roadworks. I actually have enormous sympathy for any tourist naïve enough (or should that be daft?) to take their car here right now. There are road closures aplenty as the city embarks on works for a tramline and the city centre is bearing the brunt of it.

Princes Street is a deeply unpleasant place at the moment – the road is closed to all traffic and you cannot even enjoy the view over to Princes Street Gardens due to the fencing put up to keep people away from the diggers and other heavy machinery. The noise is also appalling – my daughter who is particularly noise sensitive actually cries if I suggest going there.

Haymarket is equally awful – this is a major public transport interchange with buses and coaches stopping outside the railway station however you are met with noise, fencing, diversions and temporary traffic lights as you run the gauntlet of crossing the road.

Buses have been diverted via George Street and bus stops have been removed in the West End, leading to confusion. Some buses, for instance, call at the stop I use near Haymarket, while others do not. There seems to be no rhyme nor reason as to which ones you can catch.

The tramworks stretch from the foot of the walk in Leith, all the way to Haymarket. I took a bus from the Omni Centre in the city centre to Queensferry Street last week and the journey took well over 30 minutes due to the traffic, the diversions and the roadworks.

In addition to the tramworks, new gas mains are being laid throughout the city, causing further disruption in other parts of the city so don’t kid yourself it’s only the city centre affected!

Another thing I absolutely hate about the place are the so-called “tartan” shops. The vast majority of these shops sell kilts made in Asia and other stuff that can only be described as tat, whilst having speakers located outside with a myriad of bagpipe music with fake percussion blaring out into the street. Quite why the council cannot do something to outlaw this blatant noise pollution I do not know.

My husband used to always say his favourite sound was the sound of bagpipes fading into the distance and while I am not that offended by the sound of a genuine piper playing in Princes Street Gardens, I am mortally offended by the cacophony one has to endure just to walk down the street from these shops.

Most of these stores seem to be in units which have been let to the owners on a purely short-term basis, giving the shops a particularly awful appearance as they make do with whatever fittings were in place from the previous let.

Princes Street is truly a disgrace at the moment and while I hope it will improve in the future with a flagship New Look store and a new Primark pencilled in to open next year, right now it is quite simply hell on earth.

I am editing this to address a point marcellep2 has made in his comment - the council are currently involved in a bitter dispute with the binmen, meaning they are currently working to rule with a very strong possibility of all-out strike soon. Some people are not having their rubbish collected for weeks while others, myself included, have barely been affected thus far. I really sympathise with those residents who are having to put up with what is quite clearly a major health hazard and wish the council would do something to bring this dispute to a close.

Then there is the weather. Do not come to Edinburgh expecting balmy summer days – you are far more likely to get cold rain. Winter can be quite simply horrific for bitterly cold winds coming in off the North Sea. If you like the cold and the rain of course, this it the place for you.

Lastly, there are the locals – who range from quite friendly (they tend to be people transplanted here from the west coast of Scotland, like myself!) to downright hostile. Edinburgh folk are renowned for not being particularly warm and I have struggled in the five years I have been here to make any friends. My husband managed to pick up a few from work, but interestingly only one was actually from the city. Even when I lived in London I would get into conversations with people at bus stops, but it seems beneath the Edinburgh resident to do this.

I would also warn against engaging in conversation with some of the locals in less salubrious parts of town. Whilst Edinburgh is the most expensive place to buy a property in Scotland, there are some areas that are, quite frankly, dumps. Whilst parts of Leith have been gentrified, one only has to take a wrong turn to end up at the infamous "Bananae Flats", immortalised in "Trainspotting" for instance.

Finally

There is a lot to love about Edinburgh – honestly! However I would urge anyone considering a break to the city to wait until the tramworks are completed sometime in 2011. They are blighting the whole city and making it a pretty unpleasant place to live in. If you can put up with the noise and the hassle then good for you – but I would heartily recommend you hang fire and instead visit Glasgow if you want a city break in Scotland some time between now and the official tram opening date.

So do come - but not for a couple of years!


 

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Comments about this review »

lora44 02.09.2009 10:38

Think I visited at just the right time! Great review x

arnoldhenryrufus 25.08.2009 00:39

Oh dear you are certainly on a downer about the place aren't you, Lyn x

coco_pixie 21.08.2009 02:24

v.good review have heard such contrasting views on this place! But i think i'll take your advice and wait till 2011 xx

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