Fès (Morocco)

...me that the city of Fès was a must-visit.

A BRIEF BACKGROUND

Fès is Morocco's third largest city, and the oldest of the Moroccan imperial cities (the others being Marrakesh, Rabat and Meknes). Founded in 789, the city began to flourish, populated not only by local Muslims but also those from other parts of North Africa and the Middle East. A substantial Jewish community also made their way to Fès, and the Jewish quarter ...
...is separated into three parts: Fès el Bali (the oldest part of Fès, a walled city that is now classed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site), Fès-Jdid (new Fès) and the Ville Nouvelle (the newest part of the city, created by the French). The three parts of the city are all a short bus/taxi ride (or a longer walk) from each other - however, the Ville Nouvelle is the least interesting (in my mind, at least) of the three.

You're best off visiting ... more

As those who have read my travel reviews in the past may guess, I'm not really one for beach holidays - my idea of a perfect holiday is to spend a decent amount of time exploring places that are culturally very different from the UK. Friends of mine had been to Marrakesh towards the beginning of last year and had returned with photos and stories galore of haggling in local markets, watching street performers and sampling authentic Moroccan cuisine.

This all appealed...but I wanted somewhere more authentic, less "touristified". I still ended up going to Marrakesh as part of my Morocco trip (review coming soon) but further research convinced me that the city of Fès was a must-visit.

A BRIEF BACKGROUND

Fès is Morocco's third largest city, and the oldest of the Moroccan imperial cities (the others being Marrakesh, Rabat and Meknes). Founded in 789, the city began to flourish, populated not only by local Muslims but also those from other parts of North Africa and the Middle East. A substantial Jewish community also made their way to Fès, and the Jewish quarter is still in existence today.

The city is separated into three parts: Fès el Bali (the oldest part of Fès, a walled city that is now classed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site), Fès-Jdid (new Fès) and the Ville Nouvelle (the newest part of the city, created by the French). The three parts of the city are all a short bus/taxi ride (or a longer walk) from each other - however, the Ville Nouvelle is the least interesting (in my mind, at least) of the three.

You're best off visiting between September and November, or between April and June - at those times the weather will still be good (just without of the ridiculously scorching heat of the Moroccan summer), and there should be fewer tourists than in the summer months...

FЀS EL BALI

The largest of the two medinas (walled city sections) in Fès, Fès el Bali - we were told - is best explored, at first, with a local guide,who will ensure that you get used to the lack of road signs and the small, winding alleyways before leaving you to your own devices. After being very disappointed with the guide we'd been recommended (a different story altogether...) we opted to make our own way around the medina.

If you've never been to Africa, as I hadn't, pre-Fès, not even the guide books can prepare you for what you'll encounter on your first day. We were staying just outside the medina, so after walking through wide, relatively quiet streets to the Bab Bou Jeloud (the western gate into the city, stunningly decorated in mosaic tiles), the atmosphere changed completely and we spent the next half hour or so walking round in a bit of a daze.

Narrow streets, maybe 6ft at their widest; market stalls on each side selling everything from fresh meat to children's shoes; throngs of locals, their arms laden with shopping and small children; stray cats and kittens snacking on discarded pieces of chicken and other unidentifiable meats; the loud shouts of donkey owners, trying to move people out of their way as they and their donkeys carried heavy loads of market goods through the streets; the smell of freshly baked bread wafting from both the stalls, and huge covered trays carried by Muslim women...it really was a lot to take in. Unsurprisingly, most of our first day was spent exploring the medina and getting to grips with where things were - the sightseeing began the following day.

And there were plenty of sights to see, starting with the mosques, of which Fès is home to many. As you would expect, these are closed to non-Muslims, but if you are nearby when you hear the call to prayer ringing out over the city, you may be able to catch a quick glimpse as the men enter. The Karaouine Mosque is the largest in Fès, and the country's oldest and holiest, governing the timing of all Islamic festivals in Morocco. As well as peering through the gates, it is worth walking up one of the hills neighbouring Fès to gain an impressive view, not only of the towering minarets of the mosque, but of the city in its entirety.

One of the very few religious places in Fès that is open to non-Muslims is the Bou Inania Medersa, a theological college built in the 14th century. Architecturally, this place is amazing, with vast amounts of very detailed woodcarving and plasterwork adorning the entire building. The medersa also contains a mosque, which is still functioning today.

Neighbouring the medersa is a water clock (see photo below) which, sadly, is still awaiting restoration. The clock functioned using a complicated combination of copper water bowls and small windows - a weight would drop when a bowl filled, triggering a window to open. If one window was open, it was one o'clock, if two were open, it was two o'clock, and so on.

One "attraction" we had been told we had to see - not just by the travel agency, but by seemingly hundreds of Moroccans offering to take us there for a small fee - were the city's tanneries. For centuries, the tanneries of Fès have been tanning and dying leather in large clay basins - traditionally using natural dyes for the dying, and natural substances such as pigeon dung for the preparation. For this reason, if you take a trip up to the terrace of a neighbouring leather shop (you can't enter the tanneries themselves - not that you'd want to - but can gain a good vantage point from these shops), you'll be provided with a sprig of mint to save your nostrils. It really is something to see the locals standing in large vats of dye and other prepatory substances - most of which used to be natural, we were told, but the health of the tannery workers is now at risk due to the large numbers of modern chemicals now being used.

There are other attractions in old Fès, such as museums and further mosques to admire from the outside, but the real highlight is simply wandering around the medina and soaking up the atmosphere, strolling through the souks (markets) and haggling with the traders, who are, it must be noted, far less intimidating than those in Marrakesh, and sitting outside cafes with a glass of mint tea and watching the world go by.

FЀS-JDID

Despite being referred to as "new Fès", this part of the city was actually built in the 13th century. If truth be told, it's not worth spending more than a day here (at the absolute maximum) as Fès El Bali has far more to see.

The Royal Palace is situated in Fès-Jdid, but, unfortunately, is closed to the public. It is possible, however, to admire the huge and very ornately-decorated brass doors that lead into the palace.

The real highlight of Fès-Jdid is the mellah, or Jewish quarter: Fès-Jdid became somewhat of a refuge for Jewish families in the 14th century, and so the mellah was built. During the day, the Jews were allowed to trade in salt, gold and other commodities that they had brought with them when they fled to Fès (mainly from Europe, where they feared persecution), but by night they were under official guard by the locals. While very few Jewish families still reside in the mellah in Fès-Jdid, there is still a marked contrast between this area and the rest of the city: the streets are wider, and, architecturally, the buildings look far more "European", with vast open wooden balconies looking out onto the streets below.

VILLE NOUVELLE

In my honest opinion, not really worth a visit, unless you're very bored! The ville nouvelle is the administrative area of the city, and - as the name suggests - far more modern. The ville nouvelle is a fair old trek from Fès El Bali, and, if you have a spare afternoon that you were thinking of spending there, I would instead recommend walking up to the Merenid tombs on the hillside neighbouring the old city. The tombs themselves are nothing special, but from this hillside you will be given an amazing view of the city (see photo below).

ACCOMMODATION

For as authentic a Moroccan experience as possible, I would highly recommend staying in one of the many riads situated in and around the city. These are traditional Moroccan houses set around a central courtyard, which generally only have a handful of rooms available. Serving traditional Moroccan breakfasts (fresh orange juice, pancakes and traditional pastries), they will generally also serve lunch and evening meals on request. We stayed at the Riad Clé de Fès, a beautiful riad just outside the medina, which, despite being so close to all the action, was incredibly peaceful. Many riads, we noticed, seem to be hidden away in the depths of the city, so it's definitely worth asking for directions before you arrive...

SHOPPING

Half of the fun of shopping in Morocco is bartering in the souks, or markets, and Fès is no different. However, we did find that - because we stood out so obviously as tourists - many stall owners spent a lot of time trying to pressurise us into buying things that we really didn't want, which can get a little irritating after a while! If you prefer to do your shopping in peace, I'd recommend visiting the Ensemble Artisanal in the Ville Nouvelle - a state-run shop selling traditional handmade Moroccan goods at fixed prices, where you can shop without being hassled. It's also a good way to get a feel for how much you should be paying in the souks, and the level of quality that you should expect.

Gifts to take home could include the traditional handmade leather slippers (or "Berber Adidas" as they are known locally!), which you'll see the majority of local men wearing; carpets; other handwoven textiles; the blue and white pottery associated with Fès; brass, silver or copper items; handcarved woodwork, or, of course, Moroccan spices and mint tea!

EATING AND DRINKING

As I say, many of the riads serve breakfast, and this is by far the easiest way to start your day. It's worth checking guidebooks for recommendations if you're at all worried about the hygiene factor (we adventurously decided to brave a place off the beaten track for lunch one day, and having half a centipede suddenly appear on my soup spoon was a bit of a shock).

Generally, you'll have the choice between regular eating places and "palace" restaurants, which generally serve three to four course meals at a slightly inflated cost. Whichever option you go for, I'd recommend trying at least some of the following while you're in Fès:

- Tajines: A Moroccan stew, cooked and served in an earthenware pot with a conical lid, which are designed to keep the meat moist and tender. You'll find a number of different varieties, from chicken to rabbit, and they are generally fairly reasonable priced.

- Harira: Soup with tomatoes, onions and saffron, which may or may not contain lentils, chickpeas and maybe some small lamb meatballs.

- Brochettes: You'll see many stalls at the side of the street selling freshly cooked kebabs, generally consisting of lamb, chicken or kefta (spiced meatballs)

- Bastilla: I would have eaten these every day if I could have! It's a strange concotion - a savoury-sweet "pie" made with layers of pastry (similar to filo, but thinner), pigeon (traditionally, but many places serve it with chicken), lemon, caramelised onions and toasted almonds, which is then sprinkled with cinnamon and icing sugar. Sounds strange, yes, but it's delicious!

While Morocco is a Muslim country, your riad or hotel will almost certainly serve wine and beer should you want it. To be honest, we were happy spending most of the holiday drinking lots of bottled water and mint tea...

OTHER THINGS TO NOTE

As mentioned above, it really is worth remembering that Morocco is a predominantly Muslim country - and Fès is far more traditionally than places like Marrakesh. As a female traveller, I made sure I wore loose-fitting clothing that didn't reveal too much skin (and even then I got a lot of attention). We were also told before we left that male travellers should also be careful not to underdress when there, and that it was preferable to wear light cotton trousers rather than shorts.

Traditionally, the only women that smoke in Morocco are prostitutes, so I stuck to smoking at the hotel rather than in public - the same applies for drinking. I'm pretty sure that it's possible for women to smoke and drink in public in Fès without too many problems - but I wasn't going to take the risk of causing offence or drawing even more attention to myself.

While the majority of locals that we met were incredibly genuine, friendly and helpful, there can be a few (as with anywhere that you travel) who can cause problems. We were always a little wary of people offering to take us to where we wanted to go, as they can demand payment when you arrive and, on occasion, turn quite nasty when you refuse to give them any money.

With the Rif Mountains, one of the world's largest areas of marijuana production, just outside Fès, you'll no doubt find that, wandering around the city at night, you'll be approached by many people offering you drugs. Despite this use of the mountainside being very well known, it is still illegal to buy or consume hashish in Morocco, and drug busts are all too common...

MY OVERALL VERDICT...

...is that Fès is a must-visit. If you're looking to visit the "authentic Morocco", you'd do much better to come here rather than follow the majority of other tourists to Marrakesh. I had an amazing time here, surrounded by so many sounds, sights and smells that I'd never experienced while travelling before, a few highlights being:

- enjoying a glass or two of mint tea in the shade in the middle of the day, just watching the locals go about their daily lives.

- sitting on the rooftop terrace of our riad, watching the sun descend over the hills and hearing the imams' calls to prayer from various mosques on all sides.

- seeing bizarre combinations of the traditional and the multicultural, such as passing a stall selling couscous and other grains from huge sacks being frequented by young Moroccans wearing Zidane football shirts, or seeing donkeys (the traditional form of transport for business owners to ferry their goods from place to place) being loaded up with crates full of Coca Cola.

If you're the type of person who really likes to immerse themselves in local culture when on holiday, then you could do far worse than paying a visit to Fès. I'll certainly be looking to go back to Morocco, as it's a beautiful country steeped in history and tradition, but, as far as I'm concerned, my next visit will have to be pretty special to beat this. 

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