Traveller, bon viveur, wine lover and computer professional
Traveller, bon viveur, wine lover and computer professional
Member since:11.02.2001
Reviews:26
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Sea on one side, river on the other, the platform at Porthmadog is unlike any other. The tracks lead away across a stone causeway. Waves lap one side, on the other a wide sweep of river estuary leads to mountains in the distance. And up those mountains the train will weave, finding a route along ridges. Pulled by a powerful small steam engine ever upwards, through tunnels, across bridges puffing up 700 feet, thirteen and a half miles and eighty minutes through Snowdonia National Park to Blaenau Ffestiniog.
The Ffestiniog railway was built to transport
slate quarried from the hills behind Blaenau Ffestiniog down to a specially constructed jetty at Porthmadog. The original motive power was horses that pulled up the empty trucks and rode back down in the last carriage as gravity pulled the train down towards the sea.
Nowadays the railway is primarily a tourist experience. It is preserved and staffed by volunteers who drive the engines, act as guards and buffet stewards, sell tickets, paint rolling stock and cut back weeds. Its narrow gauge with single track most of the way. Passing places at intermediate stations give terrific close-up views of the engine and carriages across the platform.
Engines gleam with shining brass and polished paint. Rolling stock ranges from elderly vintage carriages dating over a hundred years to modern cars constructed in the railways own workshops.
You do not have to be a rail fan to enjoy a ride on the Ffestiniog Railway. There are marvellous views that change with every bend in the track. As the train gains height you look down valleys and over treetops. Birds a plenty can been seen on the estuary stretch and summertime flowers cover the upland forests. You pass lakes, rivers and waterfalls splashing down along side the track.
Walkers can leave the train halfway to enjoy trails emanating from the station and catch a later train from there or another station, or walk all the way back down.
A short walk from Blaenau Ffestiniog, also served by a shuttle bus, is a slate mine which is well worth touring. You go underground and hear the fascinating story of slate mining and the miners.
The Ffestiniog Railway runs most days during the year. Check their website for the timetable. There are special vintage days, visiting guest engines, gourmet meal trains and even an evening 'fish and chip' service.
As it is a narrow gauge train, the carriages are small, but most are pretty luxurious, well upholstered and with tables. Buffet stewards circulate along the carriages collecting orders for snacks and drinks, including hot drinks and alcohol, and delivering them to your seat. They give a good service, especially considering most of them are youngsters giving up their time as volunteers.
You need to know:-
The best views can be seen from the right side of the train, i.e. nearest the sea if boarding at Porthmadog.
Ensure you buy the full colour guidebook (£2.50) from the buffet stewards on the train at the start of the journey. It names all the sites you'll pass during the journey, plus it has detailed information about the trains and history of the railway. Well worthwhile, and makes a good souvenir.
Rail fares at time of writing cost about £12 per adult for a full-length round trip journey. Children travel free.
First class fares cost an extra £2 per person. It offers access to the glass sided observation car, but otherwise, depending on the make up of the train, doesn't offer much more comfort than the third class carriages.
Some coaches do not have a corridor, but consist of several separated compartments. They offer some degree of privacy should you take the romance of steam literally. Drinks orders will be taken at one of the stations and delivered at the next.
The guard will lock the doors from the outside before the train departs. Don't worry, its a legal requirement intended to prevent accidental opening of doors, and do not put your head out the window. As you'll soon see, the train passes through rough-hewn cuttings with inches to spare.
Porthmadog station has a well-stocked gift shop and lively bar with restaurant offering a full meals service at reasonable prices.
Ffestionog Railway Company Harbour Station Porthmadog Gwnned WALES LL49 9NF tel:- 01766 512340
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