Florence (Italy)

...although not all, of Pisa, Florence and Lucca. I’m not going to tell you absolutely everything about everything in Florence with this op for a number of reasons. Firstly if you wanted that you can read a guide book, and secondly, I didn’t do or see absolutely everything. What I will do though, is take you on a walk through the city. It’s the route I took, and it takes you past a lot of important sites and monuments. The details ...
...and costs around 10 Euros. Florence doesn’t have a bus station as such, so if arriving by bus or coach you’re also likely to be dropped off at the train station.

At the station, pop into the Tourist Info office. They’re not that wonderfully helpful, but they sell decent maps of the city for 50 c, and they can book accommodation for you if you want to stay in the city and haven’t made plans in advance. Leave ... more

I first went to Italy the summer of my A Levels, but since I spent my stay working and not holidaying, I didn’t get much chance to see the country. Ever since, I’ve vowed to go back, and since Ryanair were offering free flights from Frankfurt Hahn to Pisa, now seemed the perfect opportunity. I only had 3 days there, but I managed to see a lot, including parts, although not all, of Pisa, Florence and Lucca. I’m not going to tell you absolutely everything about everything in Florence with this op for a number of reasons. Firstly if you wanted that you can read a guide book, and secondly, I didn’t do or see absolutely everything. What I will do though, is take you on a walk through the city. It’s the route I took, and it takes you past a lot of important sites and monuments. The details in brackets after the names of places and buildings include their opening times and entrance fees for adults and concessions. In lots of places children under 16 are free when accompanied by adults. Prices are in Euros and cents – I work on 1 Euro being 60p, but it varies daily. The times are right for weekdays, but may change at weekends and out of season.

Let’s start at the main railway station. It’s one of the most common ways of arriving in Florence. The city does have an airport, but it’s very small and not all that used. If flying, most people arrive in Pisa and then take a train to the city – it takes around 1hr 30 mins, and costs around 10 Euros. Florence doesn’t have a bus station as such, so if arriving by bus or coach you’re also likely to be dropped off at the train station.

At the station, pop into the Tourist Info office. They’re not that wonderfully helpful, but they sell decent maps of the city for 50 c, and they can book accommodation for you if you want to stay in the city and haven’t made plans in advance. Leave the station and walk along Via San Antonio (just across the road, leading off the main square). Take a right onto Via Farenza which leads to San Lorenzo, one of the many famous churches in the city, designed by Brunelleschi and finished off by Michelangelo (the artist, not the teenage mutant hero turtle :p ) From here take Via de Martelli to the Duomo. It’s one of many streets that leads there, but it’s a good one to walk along because there’s a fantastic little shop at the end selling post cards for 10 cents – significantly less than the 50 cents you’ll get charged around the corner.

The DUOMO (10am-5pm, free entrance, www.mega.it/eng/egui/monu/buq.htm) was again built by Brunelleschi and was the largest dome of its time to be built without scaffolding. It has an amazing neo-gothic facade that was added about 5 centuries after the rest of the cathedral was completed. It’s pink, gold and green, which may sound a bit of an odd combo, but it works. It also reminds me of the last tutu I had before I gave up ballet which had the same colour scheme..... You can climb to the top (463 steep steps, 6 Euros) but if you’re going to do this, enter through the door round to the right hand side as you stand facing it. You can’t get to the climbing-up entrance from within the cathedral, and when you come down you end up inside anyway, so can have a look around then. As with many „things to climb“ in Italy, the steps are very narrow and with very low ceilings, so if you’re tall or, ahem, wide, you might well have trouble. I did at times, and I’m a 5,2 size 10er.

From the Duomo, take the path to the left which leads behind the structure to the BARGELLO (9am-2pm, 4 Euro / 2 Euro, www.arca.net/db/musei/bargello.htm). One of Italy’s first national museums, this is spread out over 3 floors, with the pieces well presented. A nice museum, with staff present in most areas, but not in your face. Some famous pieces too, including David by Donatello, the 1st nude structure carved since classical times. One of my favourite pieces was „Lady with a posy“ – much more radiant that the Mona Lisa, although this could have something to do with the fact it’s not protected by thick bullet proof glass. The work is attributed to Andrea Verrocchio although some believe it to be the work of one old his more famous pupils – Leonardo da Vinci.

Walk to the back of the Bargello and take Via Ghibellina. A right at the end of this leads to BAR VIVOLI GELATERIA (8.30am – 1am). Gelato is believed to have originated in Florence, and this little Gelateria tucked into a back street produces what it claims to be the best in Florence. It’s certainly good, but equally expensive. You have to go though, just be prepared to queue, even on a weekday morning in November. They have some interesting flavours on offer, including Rice flavour which is surprisingly delicious.

Head back to the Bargello and follow Via del Proconsolo (or the signs) to PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA and the Uffizi. The Piazza is one of Florence’s best attractions, and not just because it’s completely free. It’s the place to see Ammannati’s Neptune Fountain, Michelangelo’s David, Cellini’s Perseus and many more works also dating from the 16th century. There are (expensive) cafes if you fancy a drink and a snack, but a better option if you just want a sit down is the steps around the edge – just look out of the pigeon poo.

The UFFIZI (9am-7pm, 8.50 Euros / 4.25 Euros, www.uffizi.firenze.it) is a truly magnificent art gallery, and the oldest in the world. Understandably it’s usually packed, but when I went, although it was busy, it wasn’t unpleasant. Its works are on display mainly on one floor, spread out in length rather than depth through 45 rooms. Famous pieces include Botticelli’s Birth of Venus and Michelangelo’s The Holy Family. Both are good but they made me wonder why it is that some pieces become „must sees“ on every tourist’s list, while other equally awe inspiring ones go unnoticed. My personal favourites were Bronzino’s Bia and Madonna with the Long Neck by Parmigianino, both from the 1540s. As well as art, the museum offers a bar, a restaurant and lots of toilets. There’re a couple of decent shops – one at the entrance and one at the exit – both offering the usual arty souvenirs and post cards at reasonable prices.

The end of the Uffizi overlooks the river, and if you head this way as you leave, within a couple of minutes you’ll hit PONTE VECCHIO(www.mega.it/eng/egui/monu/ponvec.htm). Built in 1345, this is Florence’s oldest bridge, hence the name. It used to house all sorts of tradesmen, from butchers to blacksmiths, but they were evicted in the late 1500s by Duke Ferdinando I because, in his opinion, they were too smelly and noisy.... Now you’re more likely to find very posh and expensive jewelers on the bridge. There’s also a bust of Cellini – the most famous of Florence’s goldsmiths – on display. Above street level there’s also Vasari’s corridor. This in an enclosed, elevated walkway that links the Uffizi with Palazzo Pritti, built so the nice comfortable royals wouldn’t have to mix with the common folk on the ground. This is closed at the moment, but should be open again by next year.

Via Guicciardini leading off the bridge takes you to Via Mazetta. Follow this as it turns into Via Sant Agostino and Via Santa Monica at which point you’ll find the BRANCACCI CHAPEL(10am-4pm, 3.50 Euros / 2.30 Euros, www.kfki.hu/~arthp/tours/brancacc/). Housed in the Santa Maria del Carmine church, this chapel boasts some amazing Frescoes portraying the life of St Peter. As in lots of places, they’re the work of a few artists – Masolino and his pupil Masaccio started them, but after their deaths Lippi was brought in to finish them off. Look out for the Woman in a Turban, almost completely hidden away behind the alter. My favourite? The one with Jesus doing a headstand (aka being crucified upside down – I’m an atheist, hence no remorse at the blasphemousness of the statement....)

From here jump on almost any bus to take you back to the station, your day in the city complete. You’ll be tired and your feet will be aching, but you’ll be happy. It’s been a fantastic day.

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Extra Points:

There are NO student discounts in any museum in the city. Instead, they offer reduced prices for EU citizens under the age of 26 with a passport. I didn’t have mine with me, but was only refused an admission once, the rest of the time my student ID and rail card (with d.o.b. on) getting me in.

Busses serve most of the main sites in the city, but a lot of areas are also pedestrianised. Buy a bus ticket at a tabacci – they cost 1 Euro for up to an hour’s travel. Don’t forget to validate it in the yellow machine when you get on board.

The main tourist sites are surrounded by shops and stalls selling the usual tacky souvenirs. The back streets are the places to go for lower prices and better selections though. Good things to buy are Olive Oil (in dark bottle or tins – anything else means the vitamin E levels diminish rapidly) and wine.

For eating, Florence offers everything from all you can eat Chinese buffets to typical Tuscan fare. The tourist-menus in lots of places offer incredible value – usually a 2 course meal and a drink for about 10 Euros.

When should you go? Florence is never quiet. In summer I imagine it’s hell, but it was busy enough when I was there last week. The weather in autumn and spring is probably the most pleasant for trekking around the city, but if you can only get away in summer, don’t let that put you off. I only had a day there but it’s already become one of my favourite cities.

I had a couple of guide books with me, my favourite of which is the DK Eyewitness Guide to Florence and Tuscany. ISBN is 0 7513 00 357 and the rrp is 12.99

I stayed in Pisa, but for hotels in Florence look at www.web-florence-hotels.com/ or www.florence.4u-hotels.com.

For general info on Florence in general, some good sites are:

http://www.florence.ala.it/
http://english.firenze.net/
http://www.mega.it/eng/egui/hogui.htm
 

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