It is hard to know where to begin with Florence, without sounding horribly cliched. So I'll plough ahead with the cliches anyway, and ask for some forgiveness in advance!
Florence is beautiful. That is beyond any shadow of doubt. I think most people claim that Florence is the most beautiful, most 'complete', city that they have visited, and it certainly would win many a beauty contest (if cities went in for that kind of thing!).
Sitting on the banks of the river Arno, in Northern Tuscany, Florence is remarkably unspoilt. When I first visited Florence (and I have been lucky to visit a number of times), I honestly didn't know what to expect, it wasn't like Rome, where I had a vision of the Colosseum, or like Paris, where you think of the
Arc de Triomphe. The closest Florence has, to an icon,is Michelangelo's David, and believe me, you will have seen enough of him after a couple of days in Florence!
My first glimpse of the Duomo was, literally, breathtaking. Brunelleschi's Dome is one of the sights that will serve as a useful guide as you use make your way through the city, and it is a must-see, in a city full of must-sees. The Piazza in front of the Duomo houses the Baptistry with her famous golden doors,I never went inside, because one has to pay and I have only ever been in Florence on a budget, but it did look very pretty on the outside!
One of the best ways, I found, to do Florence, was to ditch the map and wander. It isn't a large city, and however lost you get, you won't be far from a group of American/Japanese tourists. You will chance upon so many renaissance churches that guidebooks don't even bother to mention because there are so many..
Apart from the Duomo, the only other church I'll point out, would be Santa Croce, which I actually prefered and lies to the south of the Duomo, towards the Arno. The Piazza Santa Croce is a beautiful, large and quieter (except in the midsummer season) than the others. There are a few wonderful cafes and restaurants scattered in the area.
The Uffizi, on the shore of the Arno, is the most famous of galleries, and people often talk about hours of queueing. You can buy a ticket in advance though, although to be honest, I didn't queue too long. The Accademia is also worth visiting, which houses more sculpture, including Michelangelo's original of David (a copy now stands in front of the Palazzo Vecchio in the Piazza della Signorina). The Accademia also has a room full of busts which was particularly fascinating, ok, I know I shouldn't find that last sentence amusing, but I do!
The Piazza della Signorina houses the great Palazzo Vecchio. This is the administrative and political heart of Florence and was through centuries past. It is a throbbing and vibrant heart which pulses as you stand and look around. There are some wonderful ice cream shops here, but the prices rise close to this piazza.
The Ponte Vecchio is crammed with tourists and jewellers, but if you cross it, head up to the Piazzale Michelangelo. It's a long climb up, but the view is definitely worth it, and there's an ice cream van at the top!
Also on this side, is the Pitti Palace and the Boboli Gardens. The home of the Medicis, and a very grand home too. The Gardens are beautiful, complete with woods, small grottoes and a tea shop. Within the Palace there is another art gallery of the Medici possessions as it was where they were based. There is a 'secret' passage, from the Pitti Palace to the Palazzo Vecchio, across the Arno, which was used from the Renaissance times.
Florence was the birthplace of Dante, although he was exiled, his house has now been turned into a little museum, as a testament to the man. Florence, once so great, and birthplace of many of the themes and testaments which we take for granted in the world, cannot really be underestimated, but she has lost a little of her lustre now, and is perhaps feeling the weight of her years now.
There are many more churches than I can recount. I didn't visit many museums, because the whole place is a museum, or seems to be. Florence, because it isn't so big, does heave with tourists, all year round, but the Florentines are remarkably phlegmatic, patient, even, however a few courtesies in Italian don't go amiss, because few people do bother!
They are also exceptionally cute and have lovely smooth accents.. oh, but back to the city.. I was daydreaming for a moment there..
There are many restaurants, ice cream shops, and cafes, but the further you are from the Piazza del Duomo, the cheaper (and better) they get!
As for the nightlife, it is a young city, and the influx of tourists means there's always something happening, even if it is in one of the ubiquitous irish pubs! But it doesn't really have the scene or the vibe that you get in Rome or Milan, or even Bologna. But nor is she a Venetian-type Museum City, because people do live and work in Florence in a very real way.
It can be tricky sorting accommodation if you are going peak season, but otherwise there are a plethora of hostels and hotels.
Personally, I prefered Rome, Florence is prettier, but it is almost too perfect.. but it has to be seen to be believed and understood
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Don't you just love the hustle and bustle of the square in the centre of Florence with all the artists and it's just peaceful even with all those people! :-)
herbb 13.11.2001 12:46
as an arts nut I could go see the Uffici treasures once in a week
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Feb 10th, 2001
(Sep 17th, 2001)
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